Cylinder Head Temp Sensor Size, is there only one size? Options

[bd1308]

Revised with more clear subject line....

I just need to know if indeed the TS2 sensors (head temp) are in fact close to a 13mm size, rather than the larger size I thought I noticed in my 2.0 from my old engine.

anywho, I looked at the pelican order sheet and it shows it fitting ALL Years except 73 2.0, which used the ballast resistor.

are they close to 13mm, or not? Oh and do i need to buy a deep socket and cut a slot into it so I can pass the wire through, or is there a better way?


b

[type47]

do you want wrench size/socket size to remove CHT? if so, i think it's 11mm and i think all CHT's are same for all years. don't quote me tho

[bd1308]

thx.

b

[Rand]

QUOTE

Oh and do i need to buy a deep socket and cut a slot into it so I can pass the wire through, or is there a better way?

Before you grind up your tools, see if you can coil the wire up and fit it inside a deep socket.
Or run the wire through the socket and use small vise grips to turn it.

Otherwise grind a hole in the socket or grind a corner off of an extension.

[d7n7master]

I did this not 2 long ago.
Drill size = 9.8mm
Tap size = M10X1.0
----
And as I recall I used an 11mm to tighten 'er up.

As for cutting a slot in the deep socket. Sure, that works.

Long ago - when my engine was actually IN the car - and I had to replace
the t-2 sensor. I didn't want to cut up a socket so I cut the wire
short enough to stuff the wire in the socket, installed the sensor,
and simply spliced the wire back together. that worked too.
----
This time, I don't have that problem for obvious reasons... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

Knock the corner off of an extension, that seems to be the easiest route. The square part that plugs into the back of the socket--grind just enough of one corner off so that the wire fits between the extension and the socket.

--DD

[bd1308]

QUOTE (Dave_Darling @ Jan 25 2006, 07:58 PM)

Knock the corner off of an extension, that seems to be the easiest route. The square part that plugs into the back of the socket--grind just enough of one corner off so that the wire fits between the extension and the socket. --DD

well I changed it...

cutting a socket with a dremel took at least 30 minutes maybe even a hour.

woah.

and then the old temp sender pulled the threads with it...great. I invented new cuss words, since the ones I kept on saying to express my frustration became old.

"The Tettster" wrote one of them down before I forgot it.

but anyway, I went to get some milk of magnesia, and sure enough it made a thin film on whatever i put it on...which is good. Thanks Jake for the tip.

The new sensor threaded in (thank the lord) and I was able to tighten it down. The old one was obliterated with a hammer....

next i did the spark plugs, Bosch Supers...what a great plug (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) fit perfectly...

also used MofM for the spark plug threads too.....

lata,
b

[Cap'n Krusty]

Glad you got it fixed! However, it's REALLY DEPRESSING to see SO MUCH bad information passed on for what should be a simple answer. If you're not sure people, LOOK IT UP before you give advice. This stuff is archived, and that's where people come up with real problems. The wrench size is 13 mm, always has been. There is NO other size for the CHT sensor on ANY 914, T4, T3, T2, or T1 motor. Yes, there are TWO different CHT sensors for 914s. However, they can be interchanged, as this signal is used only until the engine's warmed up. As Dave said, it's easier (and better) to cut the corner off an extension than the socket. Infringing on the structural integrity of the socket can result in it damaging the wrench flats of the sensor if it's really tight. Cutting the wire is bullshit, adding another possible signal failure point. Hope you installed the copper washer, it seals the threads and aids conductivity. Hope you got the CHT sensor good and tight as well, because that ground is REALLY important. The Cap'n, as Krusty as I wanna be!

[Rand]

QUOTE

cutting a socket with a dremel took at least 30 minutes maybe even a hour.

What? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) Dang, just take a grinder to the corner of an extension... ten seconds tops.

[bd1308]

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 25 2006, 09:13 PM)

Glad you got it fixed! However, it's REALLY DEPRESSING to see SO MUCH bad information passed on for what should be a simple answer. If you're not sure people, LOOK IT UP before you give advice. This stuff is archived, and that's where people come up with real problems. The wrench size is 13 mm, always has been. There is NO other size for the CHT sensor on ANY 914, T4, T3, T2, or T1 motor. Yes, there are TWO different CHT sensors for 914s. However, they can be interchanged, as this signal is used only until the engine's warmed up. As Dave said, it's easier (and better) to cut the corner off an extension than the socket. Infringing on the structural integrity of the socket can result in it damaging the wrench flats of the sensor if it's really tight. Cutting the wire is bullshit, adding another possible signal failure point. Hope you installed the copper washer, it seals the threads and aids conductivity. Hope you got the CHT sensor good and tight as well, because that ground is REALLY important. The Cap'n, as Krusty as I wanna be!

mine was a silver color, not copper.

It came in the bag (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

b

[bd1308]

Crusty, do all T1s have the provisions for the CHT?

b

[Cap'n Krusty]

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 26 2006, 04:18 AM)

Crusty, do all T1s have the provisions for the CHT? b

Only the later heads have the boss for it, and replacement heads usually have to br spot faced, drilled, and tapped. T3s put the sensor on a little plate that attaches to an exhaust stud. Some VWs put it on a 20mm long steel "riser", and T2 motors had it in place of one of the shroud screws beside the intake manifold. The Cap'n