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> How to paint a car in your garage.
1bad914
post Feb 17 2006, 06:59 AM
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I have finished the How to paint in your garage document, it is in PDF format, but I'm not sure of the best way to put it on the forum for distribution. Any ideas?
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1bad914
post Feb 17 2006, 08:07 AM
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Here it is. It is not perfect, it has plenty of errors, but it's main purpose is to help a novice painter like me understand what it takes to paint. It is not the best way to paint a car, some pro painters may cringe, but it works for me. Comments are welcome, good and bad. It is a work in progress, I will add some things in the future, a list of recommended supplies, also an area on body panel replacement and rust repair.

Enjoy!

How to paint a car in your garage!

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JFJ914
post Feb 17 2006, 08:19 AM
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Good info, thank you (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)
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BIGKAT_83
post Feb 17 2006, 08:22 AM
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Thanks............This needs to go to the classic thread section.

Bob. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)
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Bartlett 914
post Feb 17 2006, 09:02 AM
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Very interesting read! Great Job! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)
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URY914
post Feb 17 2006, 09:18 AM
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Great Job Randy!!

I just finished painting my car in the garage over the last few weekends. Mine is a 10' paint job. (looks best from 10' or more away from it)

One tip that I found, I have flourescent lights in my garage and because they don't produce shadows they hid a lot of imperfections. I used a hand held flood light and marked areas that needed work that I didn't realize was there.

I always heard painting a Bug was hard because of the fenders and the round hood, but you seem to have got it right.

Paul (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)
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1bad914
post Feb 17 2006, 09:45 AM
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Thanks guys! The bug is a pain to do, not one single flat surface to work with.

I really did not get into lighting, I meant to add that to the booth section and forgot until now! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Add as much light as you can!!!! $10 shop lights work great, I had them all over the place at my last house, including the sides.
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computers4kids
post Feb 17 2006, 09:47 AM
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Thank you for your well written "how to" instructions. I read it from end to end. I was actually thinking about possibly trying this myself until I came to the color sanding and buffing stage--then I got tired! I didn't realize it was so much work.

I guess I was under the impression that after the base coat, you then color sand any imperfections out, followed by an application of clear. I thought the clear was a one step way of sealing your paint job. So you actually are doing a lot of the color sanding to the clear coat--that seems wierd.

What are your feelings about a "single-stage" paint job that is then rubbed and buffed--no clear?

I agree....this tutorial shoud be placed as a resource for members!
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SLKWrx
post Feb 17 2006, 09:47 AM
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I wish I had a good answer for what to do with it, I have webspace if you want me to put it on a site for download.

Either way, any chance you can email it to me, I've been dying to take a look at it. stephen.l.kado@lmco.com
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riverman
post Feb 17 2006, 09:53 AM
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Awesome article! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif) You've almost got me convinced to try mine.
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mcbain77
post Feb 17 2006, 09:54 AM
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Check with one of the admins and see if they will post it on the site.
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TJB/914
post Feb 17 2006, 10:18 AM
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1bad914

Great advise and great article. I agree a home paint job will work with enough preparation. You forgot to say, send the wife away for a week's vacation. If you have an attached garage you will get some dust or paint matter/fumes in the house. Give yourself time to clean it up.

My 914 was painted in an un-attached 1-1/2 car garage by my painter. He tarped off the whole garage, water sprayed down the entire area before painting & had an exhaust fan in a window to circulate air. I am happy with my paint job, but painters are crazy people and gave me headaches (big time) on my restoration. Best to do it yourself & control your schedule & cost. If I were doing it again I would do all prep work and hire the final paint job in a spray booth with a professional painter.

Tom
BTW
Paul, your 914 race (red) car looks great. You should be proud of yourself. Enjoy your race season this year. If you don't win your looking good.
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watsonrx13
post Feb 17 2006, 11:12 AM
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Randy, great article....

Questsions:

1. What size, model and cost is your air board sander?

2. What do you use in the corners and near an edge when sanding instead of the air board sander?

3. I have heard to sand in a diagonal direction of a crest/edge, is this the same technique you use?

4. What do you use in the corners and near an edge when you're doing the color sanding?

-- Rob
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Dave Bell
post Feb 17 2006, 11:38 AM
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Saved that one to disk... I did all the work on my car up to the top coat of paint and clear coat...

Next time I may try those last two steps... maybe.... thanks for the great write up.

- Dave
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Mueller
post Feb 17 2006, 02:13 PM
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great article (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

cost: do you have a general idea on how much this approach would cost the average person? No need to include the compressor since most people doing such a job should already have one....

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tdgray
post Feb 17 2006, 03:12 PM
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QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 17 2006, 04:13 PM)
great article (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

cost: do you have a general idea on how much this approach would cost the average person? No need to include the compressor since most people doing such a job should already have one....

Don't know about him but I did mine this last Fall.

I had 385.00 in materials all told. Including Primer, Paint, Clear, Reducers and Thinners and catalyst. That does not include sand paper, tape, masking plastic and paper etc.

My car is white (cheapest color out there). If you are going for a red or orange... you'll pay for it.

I used Nason paint and Transtar primer and clear. Worked great!

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TJB/914
post Feb 17 2006, 03:35 PM
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Just had a discussion with one of my paint buddy's recently. If you want a high end paint job on a 914 figure the following.

Sikkens (base coat/clear coat) paint. Figure $2,500 for materials, incuding primers, tape, etc. (complete materials).

Figure 500 to 600 manhours time to prep and paint. That's taking the car apart and painting doors, hood, etc. seperate from the body. Includes wet sanding and final finish for a custom high end paint job. That's not including putting doors, etc. back on (no assembly).

Cost savings depends how much grunge work and preparation you can do. I believe our average 914 guy can get it done for $3K to $4K doing it himself using the best materials. I am talking custom paint job.

That's why some high end paint jobs cost up to $10K. Anything you can do saves dollars. It's about following procedures and 1bad914 gave a good cook book procedure. Home paint jobs work, look at my car.

Tom
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tdgray
post Feb 17 2006, 03:40 PM
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WHOA... back that cart the hell up.


$2500.00 for materials!!!

Come on I know things are more expensive in the land of fruits and nuts but CRIPES.

If this is the case... please place all of your orders through me for paint and primer and sand paper. Hmmm lets see 300-800 in costs + selling price 2500 = one hell of a lot of profit for me. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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TJB/914
post Feb 17 2006, 04:08 PM
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Todd,

I know, I know. Sikkens & Glassurite (spelling??) German paints are very, very expensive. It's my understanding once a painter uses them they really like the results. Stuff goes on real nice and can make an amateur job easy.

Tom
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scotty b
post Feb 17 2006, 04:22 PM
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rust free you say ?
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Nason = $20.00 per quart
Dupont Chroma base = $60 .00 per quart ( and is just as thin)
Spies Hecker = $85.00 per quart (very thick)

These are all Dupont products and are Va. prices. I use Dupont base and Spies base and clear damn near every day, and can assure yo Spies is well werth the extra price for a nice job. I recently painted a Fiat and used over a gallon of Nason on it where 2.5 - 3 quarts of Spies would have done the job.Nason is a decent paint just VERY thin so it takes more. In the end it will still be a cheaper job $$ wise but you will have spent more time. Easy way to describe is Nason and other cheaper paints are skim milk, and Spies and other higher priced paints are whole milk. Not at all BAD paints just thinner,which definitely helps on the wallet. Material cost on that Fiat was around 300.00, if it had benn Spies it would have been around 800.00. Those are just the base and clear prices, primers would have added about $500.00 more.
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