I need some education engine that is, for my 914-6 Options

[freezing14]

Ok i have the engine apart,, the oil was white,, not a good sign but all the parts are moving freely once the cylinders are off,, will do bottom end anyway,, here is where i need education,, i am looking to keep the cost down,, so i am looking for a set of used piston and cylinder, my pistons are ok but will buy whatever makes sense,,

as i shop around for old 911 engine gear, i have seen that they have E/ S / T version,, what is the difference??, is it just the cam, what was the -6 original came with
????, i have seen piston set for sale but they the valve pocket seems deeper,, is it just my eyes or what

[Eric_Shea]

If you're being budget minded, why not reused your P&C's? Check to see if they're in tolerences and re-ring them.

There's a big difference in all of those engines:

T = Touring Model. Very cost effective engie for Porsche to build. Mild cam. Same size valves as the others but smaller ports. Single valve springs, low compression, cast-iron cylinders. noncounterbalanced crank. 110-125hp I was very successful autocrossing a 2.2T motor against SC's and even Carreras. The bottom end torque was well suited for the task.

E = Injected. Replacement for the Normal or L engines. Came out in 69 MFI. More agressive cam. 140hp

S = Sport. High compression. First ones in 67 had Webers. 69 changed to MFI. Forged Pistons. Large valves and ports. 140-190hp.

There's a bit more to it than that but... you get the picture.

[freezing14]

HHUUMMM,, I would reuse my cylinder but they are kind of rusted, pitted,, ( lets say water sat in there for 10-15 year), the piston are ok ( I love aluminium),

i have seen a set of used biral cylinder with e- spec pistons,, would those be a direct fit and will it be hard to tune, with the carbs

can you tell from looking at the pistons,, is there any pics around

[Eric_Shea]

Run out and grab yourself Bruce Anderson's book before you go much further on this project. It shows and tells all.

If that's a mag case and it's had water and oil in it for that long, my guess is it's toast. I had one from a 2.4T I bought for the injection. The mag. 'rotted' where the water and oil sat by the drain. Rusty and pitted is not good. You're luckey they even moved. Water+Cast-Iron+Aluminum = Disaster. I had to use a sledge hammer to get my case apart.

You can use the 2.2E P&C's but you'll have to have your heads machined for the larger bore and gasket. They should work fine with carbs.

[freezing14]

I have ordered the book already, it's in the mail,, there was water only in the cylinders,, the case is good, no pitting, the engine is a 2.0 and i do not want to go to a 2.2 because it will need to be machined and I do want to keep expense down, the piston were not easy to take out of the cylinders but they are good, the top part of the cylinder is rusted but the pistons are fine, not scratch no pitting,,

I got 2 option, find a set of 2.0 cylinder,, any one will fit or buy a set of 2.0 full T or E set , but if i got to full T or E what else do i need to modify, cam, carbs????

[brant]

If you go with a full set of pistons and cylinders from an E or even S, It will bump your compression but I don't think you HAVE to modify anything else.

it will be a high compression T motor that doesn't have the benefits of a better cam or better breathing heads.

I'd not bump the redline since you won't have the associated hardware to support it, and T crank anyways.

you'll probably have to fiddle with jetting.

A dyno or wideband can help you with that.

Since the T pistons and cylinders hold the least resale value you might be able to pick up a used set cheap.
I've seen E and S stuff go for as much as a grand for a used set.

brant

[Eric_Shea]

Brant's right... I was thinking 2.2 E.

With 2.0 stuff no machining should be required.

[brant]

The reason most people want to install the better cams, heads, valves, crankshaft, pistons and cylinders....

is because they can pick up 20-40hp

and actually 40hp at $3,000 isn't that bad of a deal as far as 911 motors go. This is the same reason the 2.2 bump is so popular, and even cheaper than S parts.

rebuilding any -6 is very expensive most people figure while they are already spending so much money, why not add another 20hp. Look into the motor rebuild kits from EBS. If you buy all of the bearings, gaskets, and hardware your going to end up with 1,500-2,000 into parts alone. Thus the reaon most people do upgrades while they are in there.

have you considered just buying another 2.0T motor?
that would really probably be your cheapest route overall.
Since the 2.0T is absolutely the least desireable of all 911 motors they can be VERY affordable. Perhaps find a good one that is running and tests well.

I know of a guy right now that has a complete 69T for sale really affordably. (correct specs for a 914/6 with only a different number stamped onto the case)

brant

[freezing14]

is it the guy from jwest?? , it is a good deal, but i hate shipping across borders,,as for the serial number i could put the whole thing in my -6 case!!

[brant]

no its a local (local to me in colorado) 911 guy who is not advertising it anywhere..

but not local to you... sorry.

brant

[Mark Henry]

QUOTE (brant @ Feb 27 2006, 05:24 PM)

have you considered just buying another 2.0T motor?

Yves,

Mike at mike's 914 had a 2.0/6 engine in bits for $500.

I don't know it's condition or if it's any good for you, but I thought you might want to know about it.
I "think" one of the pistons failed.