Need to repair battery grounding post, ...and I don't have easy access to welder |
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Need to repair battery grounding post, ...and I don't have easy access to welder |
Chris Pincetich |
May 29 2006, 10:15 AM
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#1
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
This morning I tried to replace the short negative ground strap from the battery to the ground post, just to get a nice shiny connection in prep for a possible tech inspection next weekend. Just as I was almost done unscrewing the nut, the post sheared off from the body and is now just wiggling in there - can't tighten it. I *searched* for solutions and it seems the easy fix is to get a longer ground strap and bolt it to the top of the fan shround near the coil. I'd rather just fix the post and have the battery grounded in the same stock location.
Has anybody successfully reached this post and fixed it from inside of the fender as suggested in the post below??? I'd like to run a new bolt then double nut the ground strap back onto this new bolt in the stock location. I bet we can get the remaining stud out or grind it flush then install a new one. One thing I didn't think of was looking at the back side of it (from the wheel well). This could be pretty easy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
wbergtho |
May 29 2006, 11:23 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,314 Joined: 28-April 03 From: Roberts, WI Member No.: 623 |
I'd braze a new one in myself...but if you have no welder access...here's an idea. Drill the old stud out, clean the metal thoroughly and solder in a new stud (take an 8mm bolt and grind the head down to resemble a rivet) using flux and Map gas. I have seen this done before and it works quite well. Also, intall a nut on the bottom side tightly. Now you have a stirdy new ground stud.
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GeorgeRud |
May 29 2006, 11:39 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,725 Joined: 27-July 05 From: Chicagoland Member No.: 4,482 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
If there'w nothing blocking the location from the fenderwell, you probably could drill a 8mm hole and run a longer 8mm bolt through the panel. You could then doublenut the bolt and attach your ground strap to it. If you get access to a welder in the future, you can always weld the nut to the panel.
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Chris Pincetich |
May 29 2006, 06:41 PM
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#4
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)
Has anybody actually accessed the back of the stud from the wheel well?? Aren't I impatient as I sit here at work waiting to get home and work on the broke down 914? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
jsteele22 |
May 30 2006, 09:59 AM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 727 Joined: 24-August 05 From: Colorado Springs, CO Member No.: 4,653 |
Sounds like the car is in working order, right ? Why not just clamp it to ground best you can and drive to a shop that does welding ? Sound like a piece of cake job. |
ejm |
May 30 2006, 01:03 PM
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#6
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel Group: Members Posts: 2,693 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 224 Region Association: None |
Has anybody actually accessed the back of the stud from the wheel well?? The stud is higher... the sail panel is behind it. QUOTE it seems the easy fix is to get a longer ground strap and bolt it to the top of the fan shround near the coil Do it and deal with the broken stud later |
Chris Pincetich |
May 30 2006, 01:17 PM
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#7
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
Thanks a million....makes my limited wrench time with the 914 far more efficient! I tried reaching the back of the stud and got all the way to the top without touching it....I plan to sign up for a local college welding class that starts next month! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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Chris Pincetich |
Jun 1 2006, 11:33 PM
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#8
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
The ground post was never repaired because it can't be reached from the back and I don't have any welding or soldering equipment/skills. A 25" new cable is now bolted ot the fan shroud, tray reiforcement installed, and Optima clamp secured through both trya support and old tray hole and into a new nut = solid.
New battery cable terminals has been one of the best upgrades yet! Seriously! I was having intermittent starting issues and have a new ignition switch ($9) comming in the mail because there was always a slight lag, then it would either fire up or not (lights and fuel pump OK every time). Now that I have 100% corrosion free terminals, new Optima (3 months old now), and a SOLID ground (the damn post broke due to rust) I can feel the starter turn over before the key even hits the full ignition position.Only time will tell if this was THE fix, but I am feeling less like Fred Flinstone every day (insert :pushing the car and popping the clutch smiliey:) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Attached image(s) |
Chris Pincetich |
Jun 1 2006, 11:34 PM
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#9
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
the end of the (-) is up near the bright light....
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