What tools do I need?, Another front a arm ? Options

[bodyman]

Ok Everything is loose, Except the front a arm cap and the ball joint. Is the front a arm cap a Allen head? If so what size is it ? also is there a special tool required to get the balljoint loose from the A arm? here are a couple pics of my 2 problem areas.
(IMG:http://i3.tinypic.com/11ay0ds.jpg)
(IMG:http://i2.tinypic.com/11ay0l1.jpg)
Michael

[Mueller]

pic 1: correct tool that fits (see haynes manual or Pelican parts under tools for a picture) or use an impact hammer or use a large pipe wrench


pic 2: you need an 8mm or 10mm (???) allen hex key to remove it, access hole might be hidden by the valance

[914-8]

If you are just trying to get the A-arm off, I'd just disconnect the balljoint from the strut. In other words, you leave the balljoint on the A-arm, unbolt and remove the pin that secures the balljoint to the strut, and pry the balljoint down off the strut.

It's easier, esp, if you don't have the balljoint tool. Removing that balljoint can be tough, because the factory torque spec is something like 180 lb/ft, and without the proper tool, it's hard to get a good enough grip on it.

(Also, you should follow the Rule of Removing Stuff - try to remove the hardest and most challenging stuff first, leaving the obvious and easy for last!)

[Van914]

I tried the Ball Joint tool to remove mine and it did not work. Get a very large pipe wrench that's how I got mine off.
van914

[rhodyguy]

ball joint nut- pb blaster or aerokroil for a penetrant, compressor, air hammer and a chisel bit.

k

[K's Love Slave]

ball joint nut- pb blaster or aerokroil for a penetrant, compressor, air hammer and a chisel bit.

k

What? No pickle fork?

[rhodyguy]

bit goes in one of the notches in the bottom side of the nut. penetrant on the top of the bj where it enters the strut housing. don't remove the capturing nut fully, just loosened. use the control arm to lever the bj out of the strut. persuade things with a hard rubber mallet if needed. i use the pointy style bit in the indentation on the top of the tierods. takes a bit of time, but i feel the vibration works the penetrant in quickly. as always, yrmv.

k

k

[maf914]

Is that a split rubber boot on the top of the ball joint?

I used a pipe wrench to remove the special castellated nut on the bottom of the ball joint, since I didn't have the special tool. I remember that Dave Hunt made his own tool using galvanized pipe fittings and I assume a grinder. Very resourceful! That should be somewhere in the archives.