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> Is it ok to Loctite CV Bolts?
Nickm1
post Jun 12 2006, 02:35 PM
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My bolts keep coming loose on me and I'm wondering if i can just put some loctite on them. I broke 3 joints already (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) so a new set is in the near future once the current ones brake on me.
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Brando
post Jun 12 2006, 02:39 PM
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It is kind of difficult to loctite the bolts, as when you put them through you almost always get some moly lube on them.

If you are torquing them properly they shouldn't back out. I believe Dr. Evil offers sets of pre-drilled for safety wire CV bolts.

Are you using the correct grade 8 triple-square bolts? Torquing properly?
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736conver
post Jun 12 2006, 02:41 PM
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QUOTE(Brando @ Jun 12 2006, 03:39 PM) *

It is kind of difficult to loctite the bolts, as when you put them through you almost always get some moly lube on them.

If you are torquing them properly they shouldn't back out. I believe Dr. Evil offers sets of pre-drilled for safety wire CV bolts.

Are you using the correct grade 8 triple-square bolts? Torquing properly?



Use the correct washers and you should never have a problem. schorr washers I think they are called. Wiring them will also solve the problem, but the washers are the easiest and they work.
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Nickm1
post Jun 12 2006, 02:51 PM
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I don't know the proper torque, but I crank them down pretty hard. I am using the 12 point head with lock washers.
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lapuwali
post Jun 12 2006, 02:53 PM
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If by lock washers you mean the conventional star-shaped things, that's your problem. Pelican, et al, can sell you the correct Schnorr washers, which are thick, convex, and "toothed", so they grip very well.
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Dr. Roger
post Jun 12 2006, 02:55 PM
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i'm drilling mine for wire the next time the're out.... 'effin V8's..... =-)
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Dr Evil
post Jun 12 2006, 02:58 PM
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Lock washers are inadequate many times, unfortunately. This has been a problem for many folks and is the reason why I make the saftey wired CV bolt kits. The kits also come with the schorr washers for added insurance.
I believe the torque is 30 ft/lb for the bolts. If you are interested in a set, PM me.

Be carful and do note that the CV for our cars are NLA so do not go destroying them.
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jhadler
post Jun 12 2006, 03:09 PM
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Use the schorr washers. They're conical, ridged steel washers. They really are the thing. Anything else is a compromise. Even used ones are better than none at all.

Locktite? Nah, it won't get in there as you need it to. And if it does, good luck ever getting the CV's apart again... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

And torque? Really not too much (spec I think is 31 lb-ft), they don't need gorilla torque, and if you're gorilla torqueing them, you might be stretching the bolts too much, and that might make for some other problems...

And yeah, safety wiring them wouldn't be such a bad idea either... But start with the right washers...

-Josh2
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So.Cal.914
post Jun 12 2006, 03:10 PM
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If you do use loctite use blue not red. I sudjest you buy a set of Dr.Evil's drilled

CV bolts, wire them and forget them.
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r_towle
post Jun 12 2006, 03:35 PM
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I would like to add.

There is a gasket that goes between the CV joint and the tranny flange, if you dont use new ones, the bolts will come loose.

Locktight would help, but you just gotta be really steady putting it in...

Rich
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Nickm1
post Jun 12 2006, 09:19 PM
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hmm, I used new gaskets but one is broken now, a piece of it is missing and grease flew out the hole. I reused old bolts and the lock washers are the ones that look like a washer that was cut and bent like a spring. I do have another kind of bolt that looks like the factory ones but they use an allen head instead.
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SirAndy
post Jun 12 2006, 09:27 PM
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just FYI, the 944 Turbo CVs i got had what appeared to be *factory* equivalent of loctite on them. each single bolt had it around the bolt-head, in addition to the schnorr-type washers ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Andy
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lapuwali
post Jun 12 2006, 09:28 PM
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Pelican can sell you new bolts and the correct washers. Spring washers (what you have) also aren't the right part.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 12 2006, 09:36 PM
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I agree, at least get the right equipment to start with.
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McMark
post Jun 12 2006, 11:04 PM
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I was under the impression that technically the bolts were a single use item that stretched upon installation.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I agree with So.Cal.914, if you must use Locktite, use blue.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I also agree with most of the posts that you need new gaskets and (IMHO) new schnorr washers, if you're still worried, get drilled bolts.
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McMark
post Jun 12 2006, 11:12 PM
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Just checked in the factory manuals and new bolts are not specified. I was mistaken.
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Series9
post Jun 12 2006, 11:52 PM
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I would like to add: Blue Loctite is OK.
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craig downs
post Jun 13 2006, 12:03 AM
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I vote for safety wire. Its alittle more work but they will not come loose.
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jsf322
post Jun 16 2006, 11:34 AM
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Are the washers that are being refered to on all years. I just replaced an axle on my '76 and neither the old or the new CV bolts had such washers. I have a metal plate that has two holes in it that ties together the two pairs of bolts on the CV joint but no washers. THe originals never loosened and I was just about to check the torque on the new ones since I have driven the car now about 30 miles since changing the axle.
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HarveyH
post Jun 16 2006, 11:47 AM
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Not to reinvent the wheel (or the washer), but has anyone tried these on anything?
Nord-Lock Washers
Ran into them at work, apparently used on very high shock and vibration applications. Available in English and Metric sizse. One of the customers I'm working for designs induction, resistivity, and MRI tools to analyze the rock strata and fluids in the bore of oil wells. Some tools actually go in the drill string and operate as the well is being drilled.
Harvey
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