engine rebuilding, complete newbie Options

[mightyohm]

Ok, so I have myself a 2.0 core motor that I want to rebuild into something like a 2056. I am new at this whole engine rebuild thing, but I am willing to learn. I have the VW Wilson book and some general references.

Once I tear the core down and end up with a pile of parts, what do I do next?

From the book it sounds like you just take everything to your local machine shop. That includes:

1. case - inspection, align bore, etc
2. heads - valves, seats, crack repair, etc. mine definitely need some spark plug holes helicoiled and exhaust studs replaced
3. rods - inspection, rebushing?
4. crank - inspection, grinding, polishing, magnafluxing etc.

Does this sound about right? Where does balancing come in?

And most importantly... who does this work in the bay area? Is there one shop I can take everything to and they will know what to do (and not rip off a newbie like me)? Will they tell me honestly if any parts are not usable and recondition the ones that are? Should the heads go somewhere else? Do I need to clean this stuff before I take it in?

Sorry but I have a lot of questions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[mightyohm]

Some more questions I have..

I forgot to number the rockers before I tossed them into a box, without realizing that the pushrods (which i did keep in order) are wear matched to the rockers as well as the lifters. How big of a deal is this?

I also did not mark which piston goes with which cylinder. Does this matter if I reuse the pistons (I most likely will not, even if I do, the cylinders need honed badly from rust and wear).

The VW book only mentioned keeping the lifters and the pushrods organized, which I did. It omitted keeping any other parts in order.

Also, where can you get replacement hardware for these engines? Is it best to just find the local (or mailorder) metric fastener supply place and order from there? I would like to replace a lot of the engine hardware as it is rusty and generally ugly.

[Tom Perso]

Lots of questions here, I will try to answer some.

You've got a good base for a 2056. Send your heads to Adrian @ Headflowmasters. I think someone has a link here. You can get a mild port and polish, new (larger seats) and matching valves and springs. It's going to be the most expensive part of the motor. Just FYI.

New Webcam and lifters.

Get a dynamic balance from Jake Raby. Money well spent. Again, let me say again... MONEY WELL SPENT. I've experienced a perfectly balanced motor. Silky smooth at 6500rpm.

Don't worry about the rockers. Actually, if you can get your hands on a set of early 1.7 rockers, those are the best. You run 911 valve adjusters for a better footprint onto the valve stem and more accurate valve adjustments.

Keep your 94mm cylinders, have them honed to 96mm and get a set of KB pistons with Deves rings. Aircooled.net carries these. Jake Raby did mine... I don't know if he is still offering that (I think it depends on his workload), but maybe he could do yours if you have your rotating parts in for balancing.

Webcam cam and matching lifters. Ceramics would be best.

Hmm, enough for now. I'll think more.

Tom

[mightyohm]

I have a core 1.7 sitting here I can steal parts from. Why are the 1.7 rockers better? Lighter?

[Britain Smith]

There are several local machine shops that do the Porsche heads. I have all my machine work done by a Jay's Precision Machine in Santa Clara/San Jose. He is kinda on the slow side sometimes but does great work. He did all the machining for the Maestro before he died recently.

There are a whole bunch of 914 guys around here that have the facilities and experience to help you out. I am currently building a 2353 Turbo Type-4 motor for my 912.

-Britain

[Tom Perso]

Early 1.7L rockers have the smaller adjuster thread, they fit the 911 adjuster (8mm, if I recall). The later rockers are 10mm and therefore, the 911's won't fit.

Not lighter or anything, just different threads.

Tom

[Brad Roberts]

Adrian is a little overwhelmed right now.

I'm sending a pallet of engines to Jake for balancing. Your more than welcome to "pile on" your stuff before the pallet leaves next week.

I have one machine shop that is quick. Jay is awesome but slower than a 7 year inch.

B

[Jake Raby]

Cool, pile that balance work on!!!

If you are doing a rebuild see www.bugmevideo.com order volume 8, thats my engine rebuild video.

[Dave_Darling]

Align-boring is usually not needed with the 914/Type IV case. In fact, the bearings you need when you get the case align-bored are kinda tough to find and rather spendy when you do find them.

It is getting more common for the cases to need it, now, as everything gets older. But it is definitely not something just done as a matter of course, the way it is in the Type I/II/III cases.

--DD

[mightyohm]

Good to know Dave!!
Brad, my stuff is not ready for balancing yet. My crank and rods are still in the case. Once I get it all out I want to have someone check everything out to see if it is straight and usable.

[cnavarro]

I can't wait to see your engine Britain. I'm sure you'll be very happy with it. I'm sure Brad's doing a bitchin' job for you. Make sure you get lots of pics. The lifters for you and Mike get there fine? Brad, if you get a time, drop me a line. I'd like to pick your brain on something.

Charles

[Britain Smith]

Yea...I got the lifters...Thanks. I am waiting for the heads and pistons to return from the performance coater place so that I can start assembling the motor. It is all coming together, one step at a time. Check out some of the pictures on my website:

Britain's Website

Getting back to this tread, you can get your case line bored and checked out at the machine shop I mentioned previously. Let us know when you start tearing it down, I am sure we can offer some help and/or advice. I live in Santa Clara so if you ever need any help, let me know. You should also check out my website, I have lots of pictures of my type-4 motor torn apart.

-Britain

[mightyohm]

If there is any roughness to the bearing surfaces (saddles? whatever they are called) does the case automatically need align boring? I'm talkin very minor pitting in discreet spots, enough to be felt with a fingernail.

[Brad Roberts]

There is no automatic. It needs to be measured.

Oh... I'll be sending that pallet NEXT week. One of the engine guy's didnt get his stuff to me this week.

So.. if you want to get in on the "group send" let me know.


B