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> new owner - need some advice, stuck brake repair in the field - what tools to bring?
acy76
post Oct 26 2006, 08:51 AM
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Hello all -- I've been reading the forum for a while now, researching and planning before committing to a 914 purchase. Last weekend, the right deal came along and I am now the proud owner of a '72 1.7l 914.

The car has been sitting over 10 years and the rear brakes are frozen. I am going to be tucking it away for the winter this coming Sunday and would like to free them up so it rolls - or remove them completely, whichever is easier. I'm hoping someone might be able to advise me as to what tools I should bring along to make this happen, as the car is an hour away from me and once I am there, what I've brought is what I've got.

Aside from a set of metric sockets, wrenches, a hammer or two, etc., are there any items you all think I'd need to accomplish this task? I'll be working outdoors in Minnesota, so anything that expedites the process is going to be of great help.

Thanks,

Adrian

p.s. after the reading I've done, this seems to be one of the more friendly/supportive automotive forums I've seen (and I've read quite a few). Nice work, I'm glad to be joining the community.
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SLITS
post Oct 26 2006, 09:19 AM
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Butane torch

BFS (big f_____g screwdriver) flat blade

5 mm? metric allen wrench (preferably a 3/8 rachet style) with Rachet & 5" extension

18 mm box wrench

11 mm open end wrench

13 mm box wrench

pliers

BFH (big f______g hammer)

Jack

lug wrench

Jack car up ... remove wheel ..... remove inner and outer adjuster plugs ..... stick screw driver between pad & rotor .... while turning the adjustor (with 5 mm allen wrench) in appropriate direction for retraction, use the screwdriver to assist in prying the pad back (if necessary). Heating the assembly (caliper half) may help also. 13 mm is for outer adjuster lock nut.

If this fails, use the 11mm to remove the brake line and the 18 mm to remove the caliper mounting bolts, the pliers to remove parking brake pin & lock. Beat calipers off with BFH.

I think all the sizes are correct.
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ptravnic
post Oct 26 2006, 09:20 AM
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are you planning on driving it out or towing it? If you just need to get the brakes unfrozen bring some PB Blaster/liquid wrench/WD 40 type stuff. You could always just remove the calipers to get it to roll - they'll probably need rebuilt anyway.

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michel richard
post Oct 26 2006, 09:27 AM
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IIRC the bolts that hold the caliper to the trailing arm are 19 mm
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jones
post Oct 26 2006, 09:29 AM
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Somthing to sit on... piece of old carpet, cardboard... whatever. As said a torch. Fresh batteries in the flashlight. Courage and a positive attitude.
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davep
post Oct 26 2006, 11:04 AM
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Basically I would suggest removing the pads. Remove the clips with needlenose pliers. Knock out pins with a long (2" before taper) fine ( oh about 3/32") punch and hammer while wearing safety glasses. Careful, those pins are getting hard to replace and you don't want to break the casting. Then carefully pry at the pads. Try to push the pistons in just a little for clearance. If you can, remove the cap over the outer adjuster (13mm), then unlock the jam nut (13mm), then use 4mm Allen key to screw the adjuster into the caliper in order to retract the piston. If it does not turn easily, STOP. The last thing you want to do is to bugger the adjuster. Try to pull the pads out without breaking anything. You may try to hammer them in just a bit to break them free. Penetrating spray on everything may help, but could damage the rubber. Same with using a torch for heat.
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jones
post Oct 26 2006, 03:09 PM
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Everyone so tossed in eugene and correct papers for new people. Anyone in the state that kicked the Seahawks ass wanna lend a hand?
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GWN7
post Oct 26 2006, 03:19 PM
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A 5' long length of pipe (galvanised fence post works) to go over the tire iron in case the wheel bolts are rusted on also.
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 26 2006, 03:29 PM
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QUOTE
18 mm box wrench


19mm ya moron (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

QUOTE
5 mm? metric allen wrench


4mm ya moron (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Just trying to show Adrian how nice we are to each other! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

Do what Dave says... I always do. I wouldn't bother with the adjusters etc. though. Just pull the pads and you should be good to roll. I wouldn't even bother with 10 year old Minnesota field calipers until I gott'er back to the Ranch.

Yank the pads. Yank the car.

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sixnotfour
post Oct 26 2006, 06:38 PM
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There is 5- 914's heading to Minneapolis on one truck watch for it.
Is it Orange ?
5 years ago driving thru (SCCAPro rally 911) on the way to WI. ,I saw an orange one in a field. Needle in a haystack.

Good luck with your project.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 26 2006, 07:27 PM
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QUOTE(michel richard @ Oct 26 2006, 08:27 AM) *

IIRC the bolts that hold the caliper to the trailing arm are 19 mm


Three birds with one stone here. The caliper mounting bolts require a 17mm wrench, not a 19, and the allen wrench for the adjusters and the inner plug is 4mm, not 5. I would NEVER advise a newbie to take apart a rear caliper in the car. Odds are the inner plug is gonna be seriously stuck, and the technique for backing out the adjusters isn't intuitive. The Cap'n
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highways
post Oct 26 2006, 07:35 PM
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A long rope and a strong tug.


Seriously that's how I unfroze mine. Sprayed a little WD40 in there. Tied a climbing rope to the car. Dad pulled me forward. It took a sudden hard tug to pop it free and then the 914 (which I was 'driving') lurched forward a little. Just don't hit your tow buddy. I think the brakes worked after they came loose too.
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acy76
post Oct 29 2006, 09:04 PM
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Thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll be getting to it next weekend. We'll see what 13 years of shed storage has done to those brakes...
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rick 918-S
post Oct 29 2006, 09:15 PM
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Cool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/burnout.gif) how about a AAA card and tow it someplace warm. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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acy76
post Nov 5 2006, 07:49 PM
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QUOTE(davep @ Oct 26 2006, 09:04 AM) *

Basically I would suggest removing the pads. Remove the clips with needlenose pliers. Knock out pins with a long (2" before taper) fine ( oh about 3/32") punch and hammer while wearing safety glasses. Careful, those pins are getting hard to replace and you don't want to break the casting. Then carefully pry at the pads. Try to push the pistons in just a little for clearance. If you can, remove the cap over the outer adjuster (13mm), then unlock the jam nut (13mm), then use 4mm Allen key to screw the adjuster into the caliper in order to retract the piston. If it does not turn easily, STOP. The last thing you want to do is to bugger the adjuster. Try to pull the pads out without breaking anything. You may try to hammer them in just a bit to break them free. Penetrating spray on everything may help, but could damage the rubber. Same with using a torch for heat.



This method worked perfectly. Took about 30-45 minutes to get everything apart and free so that the car would roll. It's now in a barn resting until spring when I'll come get it for the trip home. Thanks again.
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davep
post Nov 5 2006, 08:03 PM
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Glad to help out. Thirty years of addiction means a lot of BTDT. Brakes are my specialty anyway.
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Eric_Shea
post Nov 5 2006, 09:20 PM
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QUOTE
The caliper mounting bolts require a 17mm wrench, not a 19


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