CV joint assembly, writeup? |
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CV joint assembly, writeup? |
yarin |
Mar 8 2007, 08:07 AM
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#1
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
Does anyone have a writeup on how to install a CV joint on the axle?
I'm uncertain of which goes first and in what direction. Here is a pic of the kit: (IMG:http://www.pmbperformance.com/i//CV_Joint_Kit.jpg) Thanks |
jr91472 |
Mar 8 2007, 09:12 AM
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#2
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"I'm pacing myself sergeant..." Group: Members Posts: 1,205 Joined: 2-August 04 From: McKinney, TX Member No.: 2,437 |
huh...I just did this a few months back and could have sworn there was something. But I guess I just looked at a bunch of threads via the search function. Lots of info including how to make sure the CV joint itself is put together properly.
Pretty straight forward really, biggest issue was removing the axle from the car. Eat your wheaties and get a big breaker bar for the castle nut on the rear wheel. As far as the order goes, you will see that as you remove the old CV. Wear gloves and old clothes - its messy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) good luck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) |
Joe Ricard |
Mar 8 2007, 09:19 AM
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#3
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CUMONIWANNARACEU Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Gautier, MS Member No.: 92 |
How VW's this month has an article.
Pretty easy actually. And you got too many parts there. Looks like you got enough to do either one kind or another. The concave washer and the open circlip go to a 4 cylinder car the slpined concave washer and circlip with holes in the end ???? I have never seen those on a 4 cylinder car. That's ALOT of grease. What I don't see is a new gasket to go between CV and transaxle output flange. |
yarin |
Mar 8 2007, 09:29 AM
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#4
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
I removed both drive shafts already, that was a real PITA! I also stripped off the old CVs ane cleaned up the axles. I found a few threads on making sure the CV is put together properly, mine are already assembled.
The kit also came with four CV/output flange gaskets. I can't find anything at HotVWs. Do you have a link? Also, the CVs are dry. Do I need to dissasemble the puzzle and grease everything before assembly or can I install it right on the axle and shoot grease in there. Thanks |
Joe Ricard |
Mar 8 2007, 10:40 AM
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#5
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CUMONIWANNARACEU Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Gautier, MS Member No.: 92 |
New issue on the magazine rack at Wall mart yesterday.
Don't take the CV's apart unless they are used and then the real puzzle is putting them back together. Otherwise just squeeze as much grease into the CV as it will hold. then try and get more in it. Filling the boots and output flange pocket is really not required. |
Cap'n Krusty |
Mar 8 2007, 11:44 AM
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#6
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. Use the smap ring that matches what came out, thoroughly grease the new joint before installing it on the axle, put the rest of the grease in the boot. USE THE WHOLE TUBE! Reuse any load spreading hardware, and get new schnorr washers.
That kit doesn't appear to be for a 914, BTW. If that's what you intend to use it for, better make sure it fits. The Cap'n |
gopack |
Mar 8 2007, 11:50 AM
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#7
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CHEESEHEAD in CA, MARK Group: Members Posts: 744 Joined: 7-August 04 From: Folsom, CA Member No.: 2,472 Region Association: Northern California |
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yarin |
Mar 8 2007, 12:20 PM
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#8
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
It's the right kit from PMB Performance.
http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/3857681.htm Maybe the pic isn't accurate. I layed everything out on the table last night. I'll check it all again and see what I have. Found the writeup here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...75&hl=shaft |
Cap'n Krusty |
Mar 8 2007, 02:16 PM
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#9
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
AHA! Generic picture. Don't forget to transfer the roll pins, and use new washers of the correct type. The Cap'n
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yarin |
Mar 8 2007, 05:13 PM
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#10
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. Use the smap ring that matches what came out, thoroughly grease the new joint before installing it on the axle, put the rest of the grease in the boot. USE THE WHOLE TUBE! Reuse any load spreading hardware, and get new schnorr washers. That kit doesn't appear to be for a 914, BTW. If that's what you intend to use it for, better make sure it fits. The Cap'n I don't trust anything i'm disassembling on this car. POwners used retarded mechanics, i'm going through everything piece by piece and finding the stupidest things. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Question is, how many washers do I use? The concave spline one and/or the convace solid one? Thanks |
Eric_Shea |
Mar 9 2007, 02:48 AM
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#11
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,278 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Kit comes with new washers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Eric_Shea |
Mar 9 2007, 11:03 AM
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#12
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,278 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Yarin,
I've created a CV joint installation manual by cutting and edited a factory manual for you. Eric |
Cap'n Krusty |
Mar 9 2007, 12:12 PM
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#13
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. Use the smap ring that matches what came out, thoroughly grease the new joint before installing it on the axle, put the rest of the grease in the boot. USE THE WHOLE TUBE! Reuse any load spreading hardware, and get new schnorr washers. That kit doesn't appear to be for a 914, BTW. If that's what you intend to use it for, better make sure it fits. The Cap'n I don't trust anything i'm disassembling on this car. POwners used retarded mechanics, i'm going through everything piece by piece and finding the stupidest things. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Question is, how many washers do I use? The concave spline one and/or the convace solid one? Thanks What did I say? "Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. " It came with ONE, use ONE. The Cap'n |
Eric_Shea |
Mar 9 2007, 12:16 PM
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#14
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,278 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I think he's concerned that the PO didn't always follow the rules... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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yarin |
Mar 9 2007, 07:30 PM
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#15
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
I think he's concerned that the PO didn't always follow the rules... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) If I put back what I took out there would be no seals between the CVs and wheel hub. Thanks Eric! Really appreciate it! I've got a 33 spline axle on the way in the mail. |
yarin |
Mar 10 2007, 09:38 AM
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#16
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
I started installed the CVs and ran into a few options.
With the axles i'm using, i assume they are 914-4 axles, you should use the solid concave washer without the splines. (The kit comes with both). Then tap the CV onto the shaft. Without compressing the CV onto the shaft, there is exactly enough space for the C clip. However the other clip pictured here is the exact thickness of the slot, double the thickness of the C-clip, leading me to believe a press should be used to compress the concave washer and slide the clip in place. Dissasembly of the old CVs revealed flat washers that appear to have been installed then pressed. Maybe i'm looking too far into all of this. If I follow the factory manual it says use the C clip, and don't press anything. I just don't want my stuff falling apart down the road. Comments? Attached thumbnail(s) Attached image(s) |
johnlush |
Mar 10 2007, 10:58 AM
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#17
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What's all this then? Group: Members Posts: 371 Joined: 26-May 04 From: Cheyenne, WY Member No.: 2,108 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Yarin,
The ones I have done had the concave washer without the splines and the thick "C" retainer clip. Like Crusty said, concave washer cup facing toward the joint, slide the joint on - it may take a little light persuasion - on the inner race only - but not a press. You just need to get it back far enough to be able to get the retainer in the groove. Make sure that the retainer is fully seated in the groove by comparing the gap between the ends with an unexpanded one. What I do is then to very lightly tap the joint outward against the retainer to put a little bind on it. Since the joint is kinda free on the splines this may do no good but it makes me feel better. Make sure you get both boots on before the second joint is on or you get to take it apart again. Yep I managed to do that - once. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Did you get the axle yet? |
yarin |
Mar 10 2007, 11:49 AM
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#18
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
Yarin, The ones I have done had the concave washer without the splines and the thick "C" retainer clip. Like Crusty said, concave washer cup facing toward the joint, slide the joint on - it may take a little light persuasion - on the inner race only - but not a press. You just need to get it back far enough to be able to get the retainer in the groove. Make sure that the retainer is fully seated in the groove by comparing the gap between the ends with an unexpanded one. What I do is then to very lightly tap the joint outward against the retainer to put a little bind on it. Since the joint is kinda free on the splines this may do no good but it makes me feel better. Make sure you get both boots on before the second joint is on or you get to take it apart again. Yep I managed to do that - once. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Did you get the axle yet? HEy John, There is no way I can get the thick C clip on without a press, using the solid concave washer installed as required. I've got both boots on, thanks for the tip, hehe. USPS didn't deliver yet, i'll look for it later today. Thanks! |
IronHillRestorations |
Mar 10 2007, 12:03 PM
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#19
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,730 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
The last set I rebuilt required using a press to allow enough clearance for the snap ring. It required compressing the concave washer a little more than what I remember from prior CV replacements. I was using all pretty much all new parts though; CV's, boots, concave washers, snap rings, etc. The only part that was used was the actual drive shaft. YMMV
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yarin |
Mar 10 2007, 12:07 PM
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#20
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
The last set I rebuilt required using a press to allow enough clearance for the snap ring. It required compressing the concave washer a little more than what I remember from prior CV replacements. I was using all new parts though; CV's, boots, concave washers, snap rings, etc. YMMV Which snap ring did you use? The C-clip with tool holes(pictured in the factory manual) or other one that's twice as thick? |
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