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> CV joint assembly, writeup?
yarin
post Mar 8 2007, 08:07 AM
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Does anyone have a writeup on how to install a CV joint on the axle?

I'm uncertain of which goes first and in what direction.

Here is a pic of the kit:
(IMG:http://www.pmbperformance.com/i//CV_Joint_Kit.jpg)

Thanks




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jr91472
post Mar 8 2007, 09:12 AM
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huh...I just did this a few months back and could have sworn there was something. But I guess I just looked at a bunch of threads via the search function. Lots of info including how to make sure the CV joint itself is put together properly.

Pretty straight forward really, biggest issue was removing the axle from the car. Eat your wheaties and get a big breaker bar for the castle nut on the rear wheel. As far as the order goes, you will see that as you remove the old CV. Wear gloves and old clothes - its messy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

good luck
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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Joe Ricard
post Mar 8 2007, 09:19 AM
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How VW's this month has an article.
Pretty easy actually.

And you got too many parts there. Looks like you got enough to do either one kind or another.
The concave washer and the open circlip go to a 4 cylinder car the slpined concave washer and circlip with holes in the end ???? I have never seen those on a 4 cylinder car.
That's ALOT of grease.
What I don't see is a new gasket to go between CV and transaxle output flange.
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yarin
post Mar 8 2007, 09:29 AM
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I removed both drive shafts already, that was a real PITA! I also stripped off the old CVs ane cleaned up the axles. I found a few threads on making sure the CV is put together properly, mine are already assembled.

The kit also came with four CV/output flange gaskets.

I can't find anything at HotVWs. Do you have a link?

Also, the CVs are dry. Do I need to dissasemble the puzzle and grease everything before assembly or can I install it right on the axle and shoot grease in there.

Thanks

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Joe Ricard
post Mar 8 2007, 10:40 AM
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New issue on the magazine rack at Wall mart yesterday.
Don't take the CV's apart unless they are used and then the real puzzle is putting them back together.

Otherwise just squeeze as much grease into the CV as it will hold. then try and get more in it.
Filling the boots and output flange pocket is really not required.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Mar 8 2007, 11:44 AM
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Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. Use the smap ring that matches what came out, thoroughly grease the new joint before installing it on the axle, put the rest of the grease in the boot. USE THE WHOLE TUBE! Reuse any load spreading hardware, and get new schnorr washers.

That kit doesn't appear to be for a 914, BTW. If that's what you intend to use it for, better make sure it fits.

The Cap'n
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gopack
post Mar 8 2007, 11:50 AM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Mar 8 2007, 11:44 AM) *

That kit doesn't appear to be for a 914, BTW. If that's what you intend to use it for, better make sure it fits.

The Cap'n



yeah, too many bolts! should need 4 and there are 2 roll pins!
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yarin
post Mar 8 2007, 12:20 PM
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It's the right kit from PMB Performance.
http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/3857681.htm

Maybe the pic isn't accurate. I layed everything out on the table last night. I'll check it all again and see what I have.

Found the writeup here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...75&hl=shaft

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Cap'n Krusty
post Mar 8 2007, 02:16 PM
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AHA! Generic picture. Don't forget to transfer the roll pins, and use new washers of the correct type. The Cap'n
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yarin
post Mar 8 2007, 05:13 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Mar 8 2007, 12:44 PM) *

Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. Use the smap ring that matches what came out, thoroughly grease the new joint before installing it on the axle, put the rest of the grease in the boot. USE THE WHOLE TUBE! Reuse any load spreading hardware, and get new schnorr washers.

That kit doesn't appear to be for a 914, BTW. If that's what you intend to use it for, better make sure it fits.

The Cap'n


I don't trust anything i'm disassembling on this car. POwners used retarded mechanics, i'm going through everything piece by piece and finding the stupidest things. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Question is, how many washers do I use? The concave spline one and/or the convace solid one?

Thanks
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 9 2007, 02:48 AM
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Kit comes with new washers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 9 2007, 11:03 AM
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Yarin,

I've created a CV joint installation manual by cutting and edited a factory manual for you.

Eric
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Cap'n Krusty
post Mar 9 2007, 12:12 PM
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QUOTE(yarin @ Mar 8 2007, 03:13 PM) *

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Mar 8 2007, 12:44 PM) *

Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. Use the smap ring that matches what came out, thoroughly grease the new joint before installing it on the axle, put the rest of the grease in the boot. USE THE WHOLE TUBE! Reuse any load spreading hardware, and get new schnorr washers.

That kit doesn't appear to be for a 914, BTW. If that's what you intend to use it for, better make sure it fits.

The Cap'n


I don't trust anything i'm disassembling on this car. POwners used retarded mechanics, i'm going through everything piece by piece and finding the stupidest things. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Question is, how many washers do I use? The concave spline one and/or the convace solid one?

Thanks


What did I say? "Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. " It came with ONE, use ONE. The Cap'n


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Eric_Shea
post Mar 9 2007, 12:16 PM
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I think he's concerned that the PO didn't always follow the rules... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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yarin
post Mar 9 2007, 07:30 PM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Mar 9 2007, 01:16 PM) *

I think he's concerned that the PO didn't always follow the rules... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


If I put back what I took out there would be no seals between the CVs and wheel hub.

Thanks Eric! Really appreciate it! I've got a 33 spline axle on the way in the mail.
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yarin
post Mar 10 2007, 09:38 AM
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I started installed the CVs and ran into a few options.

With the axles i'm using, i assume they are 914-4 axles, you should use the solid concave washer without the splines. (The kit comes with both). Then tap the CV onto the shaft. Without compressing the CV onto the shaft, there is exactly enough space for the C clip. However the other clip pictured here is the exact thickness of the slot, double the thickness of the C-clip, leading me to believe a press should be used to compress the concave washer and slide the clip in place. Dissasembly of the old CVs revealed flat washers that appear to have been installed then pressed.

Maybe i'm looking too far into all of this. If I follow the factory manual it says use the C clip, and don't press anything. I just don't want my stuff falling apart down the road.

Comments?


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johnlush
post Mar 10 2007, 10:58 AM
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Yarin,

The ones I have done had the concave washer without the splines and the thick "C" retainer clip. Like Crusty said, concave washer cup facing toward the joint, slide the joint on - it may take a little light persuasion - on the inner race only - but not a press. You just need to get it back far enough to be able to get the retainer in the groove. Make sure that the retainer is fully seated in the groove by comparing the gap between the ends with an unexpanded one. What I do is then to very lightly tap the joint outward against the retainer to put a little bind on it. Since the joint is kinda free on the splines this may do no good but it makes me feel better. Make sure you get both boots on before the second joint is on or you get to take it apart again. Yep I managed to do that - once. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Did you get the axle yet?
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yarin
post Mar 10 2007, 11:49 AM
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QUOTE(johnlush @ Mar 10 2007, 11:58 AM) *

Yarin,

The ones I have done had the concave washer without the splines and the thick "C" retainer clip. Like Crusty said, concave washer cup facing toward the joint, slide the joint on - it may take a little light persuasion - on the inner race only - but not a press. You just need to get it back far enough to be able to get the retainer in the groove. Make sure that the retainer is fully seated in the groove by comparing the gap between the ends with an unexpanded one. What I do is then to very lightly tap the joint outward against the retainer to put a little bind on it. Since the joint is kinda free on the splines this may do no good but it makes me feel better. Make sure you get both boots on before the second joint is on or you get to take it apart again. Yep I managed to do that - once. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Did you get the axle yet?


HEy John,

There is no way I can get the thick C clip on without a press, using the solid concave washer installed as required. I've got both boots on, thanks for the tip, hehe.

USPS didn't deliver yet, i'll look for it later today. Thanks!
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IronHillRestorations
post Mar 10 2007, 12:03 PM
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The last set I rebuilt required using a press to allow enough clearance for the snap ring. It required compressing the concave washer a little more than what I remember from prior CV replacements. I was using all pretty much all new parts though; CV's, boots, concave washers, snap rings, etc. The only part that was used was the actual drive shaft. YMMV
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yarin
post Mar 10 2007, 12:07 PM
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QUOTE(9146986 @ Mar 10 2007, 01:03 PM) *

The last set I rebuilt required using a press to allow enough clearance for the snap ring. It required compressing the concave washer a little more than what I remember from prior CV replacements. I was using all new parts though; CV's, boots, concave washers, snap rings, etc. YMMV


Which snap ring did you use? The C-clip with tool holes(pictured in the factory manual) or other one that's twice as thick?
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