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> My fender replacement, progress..
stock93
post Dec 16 2003, 02:46 AM
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When I bought my 914 it had a small hole in the right rear fender. When I stripped the paint off of it the whole part above the taillight was made of bondo. Right below the tail light also had a big chunk of bondo. Above the wheel well there was a layer about 1/4in thick. So I made the decision to replace the fender. I got the old one cut off tonight. I'm going to trim the new one to fit then mig weld it on.

John


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stock93
post Dec 16 2003, 02:47 AM
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asdf


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stock93
post Dec 16 2003, 02:48 AM
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asdf


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Brad Roberts
post Dec 16 2003, 03:14 AM
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Damn. That is a clean tub. Good luck on the fender. We just replace the very rear piece that was f-'d up on yours.


B
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stock93
post Dec 16 2003, 03:42 AM
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The hell hole has a bit of a problem and there is some rust at the base of the firewall due to the rear window being loose. I also has a small hole in the floor after I removed the tar. This has been an Alabama car all its life. I still dont think its to bad for a car that was in a cow field when I got it. Theres no rust in the rear trunk floor. Just a tiny bit on the rear trunk lid under the back lip. The front doesnt have any rust in it besides the weatherstrip guide around the lights. Any tips? This is my first time doing this. I will obviously stich weld it very slowly as not to warp it.

John
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Slowpoke
post Dec 16 2003, 02:04 PM
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You must like welding! You are creating alot of it with that cut. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I would not have made that cut. You might think now about cutting up straight into the trunk weatherstrip area and avoid that long weld beside the trunk seam. That will create alot of body work later in an area that will be hard to work. Try to use the factory welded areas as much as you can when doing repairs like this. Of course this is only meant as a suggestion, please take it that way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I would cut the whole quarter and replace it. It might look like more work at first. But, the end result will be less bondo work and a more professional job. Oh yeah... I'm a nut for doing stuff like this on my cars.

Peter
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Slowpoke
post Dec 16 2003, 02:12 PM
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Oh yeah< I forgot to mention I worked in a body shop where I had to explain every vertical weld to my boss. So, I'm still real leary of them 30 years later.
See YA
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stock93
post Dec 16 2003, 02:12 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I'll keep it in mind next time I do something like this. The replacement had damage at the base of the targa bar. I do like welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) When I get done there should be no bondo or only a tiny bit at the weld.

John
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trojanhorsepower
post Dec 16 2003, 02:20 PM
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I agree with Slowpoke!

Trust me, it will make your hell hole and floor repairs so much easier and better if that damn rear quarter panel is not in your way. Cut out the 10K spot welds with a spot weld cutter and remove the door sill as well. Then you can get to the hell hole, floor pans, inner rockers etc. with much less effort and over all the job will better and stronger. Plus it will make installing the frame stiffeners much easier. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) I would also recommend using as much metal from donor cars or restoration designs as you can afford. It beats the hell out of trying to fab that stuff your self.

Best of luck and have fun.

-Pete
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