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> Help rear wheel bearing whine
js2bugu
post Mar 17 2008, 02:41 PM
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I just noticed a Rear bearing whine drivers side when I turn the wheel right.
Question is how long can I run with this bearing 10 miles, 1000 miles?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks
Adam
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Dr. Roger
post Mar 17 2008, 02:46 PM
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QUOTE(js2bugu @ Mar 17 2008, 01:41 PM) *

I just noticed a Rear bearing whine drivers side when I turn the wheel right.
Question is how long can I run with this bearing 10 miles, 1000 miles?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks
Adam


Let's put it this way... do you really want to risk trashing your swing arm by running a bad bearing?

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Plus they are cheap. Why run a bad bearing?
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hcdmueller
post Mar 17 2008, 02:48 PM
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Mine has been going for the past 3 to 400 miles. It started on a road trip last summer and I wasn't going to stop unless it started getting really loud. I did cut back on the driving after I got back from the trip. I am going to replace it before I reinstall the engine this month.
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js2bugu
post Mar 17 2008, 02:49 PM
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Done Deal Bearing on order.

Thanks!
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brant
post Mar 17 2008, 03:09 PM
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QUOTE(js2bugu @ Mar 17 2008, 01:49 PM) *

Done Deal Bearing on order.

Thanks!



where did you order it from
?reasonable price?
I fear I need one new one also and haven't researched or bought one in years.
brant
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js2bugu
post Mar 17 2008, 05:03 PM
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Ordered from AA $50
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davesclassicvws
post Mar 17 2008, 06:17 PM
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QUOTE(js2bugu @ Mar 17 2008, 04:03 PM) *

Ordered from AA $50

How hard are these to replace? Garage mechanic stuff or professional only? I think I have a noisy one also.
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SLITS
post Mar 17 2008, 08:11 PM
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QUOTE(davesclassicvws @ Mar 17 2008, 04:17 PM) *

QUOTE(js2bugu @ Mar 17 2008, 04:03 PM) *

Ordered from AA $50

How hard are these to replace? Garage mechanic stuff or professional only? I think I have a noisy one also.


If you don't have the right tools you will trash it on installation. You have to pull the hub thru it while supporting the back of the bearing (inner race). Do a search ... there have been many threads about homemade tools, etc for installation.

The removal is easier .... ya just beat the crap outta it. Usually, the bearing comes apart, leaving the outer race in place which can be pounded out using a drift, chisel or ?.
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MarkV
post Mar 17 2008, 08:36 PM
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It been a while since I changed mine. The hard part was getting the castle nut off the stub axle and getting the old bearing race out. An air hammer works to get the race out. I put the new bearing in the freezer overnight and it went back together pretty easy.

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Demick
post Mar 17 2008, 09:08 PM
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Yup. Freeze the bearing overnight. Heat the hub with a torch to get it hot, and the bearing will slide right in.

Getting the old one out - that's another story. Can be fairly easy, can be really really really hard. Depends on the car.

Demick
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roadster fan
post Mar 17 2008, 11:04 PM
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Posted this the last time this came up. Best price around, fast shipping.

rear bearing

I made a tool with all thread and some plumbing parts to remove and replace the bearings. I will try and post a pic tomorrow, but there are plenty of threads with similiar homebuilt tools.

As far as the castle nut, with a long enough lever you can move the world!

Jim
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Cire
post Apr 6 2009, 01:11 PM
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QUOTE(MarkV @ Mar 17 2008, 07:36 PM) *

It been a while since I changed mine. The hard part was getting the castle nut off the stub axle and getting the old bearing race out. An air hammer works to get the race out. I put the new bearing in the freezer overnight and it went back together pretty easy.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

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I got my brakes off. Got the rotor off. Got the castle nut off. How does the next piece come off? Does the axle have to come off? Does the stub axle need to be pulled out? = ) Got any more pictures. I am really good with pictures. = )

Thanks.

Eric
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Cap'n Krusty
post Apr 6 2009, 02:07 PM
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Yes, the stub axle has to come out. Yes, the hub has to come out. Spray the stub axle as best you can with a good penetrant. It goes out inward. DO NOT hammer on it unless the nut is in place to protect the threads! The hub knocks out from the back, and it can be pretty reluctant to move. It usually brings the outside inner race with it. You then remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing cover in place. After that, you knock the bearing out. The inner side inner race should still be there, and that's what you hit using a large drift...... The new bearing should be drawn in with some sort of screw device. If you can't do that, you MUST hit ONLY the outer race! Once it's in, reinstall the bearing cover. After that, you draw the hub in using a screw device, and applying pressure on both the hub and THE INNER RACE of the bearing. ONLY the INNER RACE!. If you don't, or if you try to pound it together, you'll most likely destroy your new bearing. If you've paid attention, you'll probably do just fine. Good luck! The Cap'n
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