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yellow914 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 183 Joined: 28-March 08 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 8,861 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
I was changing my Head temp sensor yesterday and discovered that some of the rear threads on the old one were stripped!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Now if I can get the new one to thread in:
First Question: If it doesn't thread all ther way in, will it cause sensor issues? Second Question: How do I get the friggin thing to thread with that wire sticking out of the back! Third: I think I already know...Will I have to drop the engine out to re-tap it worse case senario? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Thanks Scott |
r_towle |
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#2
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
1, it has to thread all the way in.
2, take a long socket and a long extension...grind a groove into the mail end of the extension to allow the wire to pass through with the socket in place. 3) no, you can tap it in the car. You need to buy a tap, then grind it down so its a flat bottom tap with no taper on the end. the hole does not go through (that would be very bad) its just a flat bottomed hole. It can be tapped with a flat bottom tap in the car... Rich |
Cap'n Krusty |
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#3
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Cap'n Krusty ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California ![]() |
Good answer, as far as it goes. However, you must remember that you can only tap metal that is there, and the metal you need to tap is on the old sensor. I suggest a timesert of the appropriate size and length. Much easier with the tin out of the way.
The Cap'n |
yellow914 |
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#4
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 183 Joined: 28-March 08 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 8,861 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
1, it has to thread all the way in. 2, take a long socket and a long extension...grind a groove into the mail end of the extension to allow the wire to pass through with the socket in place. 3) no, you can tap it in the car. You need to buy a tap, then grind it down so its a flat bottom tap with no taper on the end. the hole does not go through (that would be very bad) its just a flat bottomed hole. It can be tapped with a flat bottom tap in the car... Rich Great, Thanks Rich. I'll keep my fingers crossed |
yellow914 |
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#5
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 183 Joined: 28-March 08 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 8,861 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Good answer, as far as it goes. However, you must remember that you can only tap metal that is there, and the metal you need to tap is on the old sensor. I suggest a timesert of the appropriate size and length. Much easier with the tin out of the way. The Cap'n Thanks Cap'n...I appreciate the help |
7275914911 |
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#6
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Hummmm!!! ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 756 Joined: 7-May 08 From: Mid-South Member No.: 9,028 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Good answer, as far as it goes. However, you must remember that you can only tap metal that is there, and the metal you need to tap is on the old sensor. I suggest a timesert of the appropriate size and length. Much easier with the tin out of the way. The Cap'n Cap'n, How easy is it to get that tin out of the way? Do the rails have to come out? JKP |
AvalonFal |
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#7
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 483 Joined: 3-July 05 From: Southern New Jersey Coast Member No.: 4,367 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
Had a similar problem on my '74 2.0L except that the old CHT was broken off in the hole. Pulled the runners and the tin, drilled what was left of the old CHT out and put in a Timesert. Be real careful to keep the tap perpendicular to the hole and don't go too deep (blind hole).
Paul ![]() |
sportlicherFahrer |
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#8
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Nothing to see here. ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,088 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Tacoma, WA Member No.: 3,945 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Had similar problem on my 2.0 a while back. Someone suggested putting the sensor in one of the sheet metal screw holes close to the intake runner where it meets the head. Had to get a tap and drill bit to open and thread the hole. Also got a 90 degree drill adapter from Sears. If you have a dremel with the bendy attachment you won't need that. Sensor worked good for me in that location. Did all the work in car without takin tin off. Think I pulled the runner and plugged the intakes in the head though.
Just a last resort thought. |
r_towle |
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#9
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
If you want to remove the head tin you need to remove the intake and a few other things are are pretty self explanitory once you start working on it.
It takes about 1-2 hours first time to remove the engine. 45 minutes after you have done it a few times. The project that you are undertaking...if it need drilling...will be alot easier and more accurate with the motor removed from the car. Getting the correct angle with tools is not that simple with the motor in the car. the motor comes out with muffler etc all attached...so its really worth the time to drop it and do the job right. You can probably get a tap in there while the motor is in the car, but you will probably not be able to use a standard tap wrench...instead you will have to jam a socket on the end (tap is square headed...) Rich |
yellow914 |
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#10
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 183 Joined: 28-March 08 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 8,861 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Had similar problem on my 2.0 a while back. Someone suggested putting the sensor in one of the sheet metal screw holes close to the intake runner where it meets the head. Had to get a tap and drill bit to open and thread the hole. Also got a 90 degree drill adapter from Sears. If you have a dremel with the bendy attachment you won't need that. Sensor worked good for me in that location. Did all the work in car without takin tin off. Think I pulled the runner and plugged the intakes in the head though. Just a last resort thought. Okay you've got my attention with a simple relocation. However isn't the accuracy of the temp critical to the fuel mixture etc...? The reason I wanted to replace the origical one was when the car was "warmed up" after substancial freeway miles it started to run a little rough and also my idle dropped and the motor sometimes died...so I figured the cheapest possible fix was the Head Temp Sensor...and here we are dropping the motor!! ARRRRRGH..!!! ..lol... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) |
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