 Help me diagnose/fix my relay board! |
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| kpfoten |
 Jun 25 2009, 03:47 PM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 220 Joined: 15-April 08 From: Escanaba, MI Member No.: 8,927 Region Association: None  |
My '73 1.7 is getting the FI system re-installed after the PO put carbs in.
I'm not getting power to my fuel pump--I've tested continuity and think my problem lies in the relay board. The left post for the 25A fuse should receive 12V and I'm getting nothing. The post looks a little melted like something happened to it at one point. The rivet from underneath (red, 2nd picture) is continuous, but this should extend onto the tract (not sure the correct terminology), right? There seems to be a break between the rivet and the tract (green). Sorry about the lack of focus... If so, how do I make a quick fix? Thanks! Attached image(s)  
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| 904svo |
Jun 25 2009, 04:37 PM
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#2
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904SVO Group: Members Posts: 1,118 Joined: 17-November 05 From: Woodstock,Georgia Member No.: 5,146 |
Quick fix, hope this helps you.
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| kpfoten |
Jun 25 2009, 05:34 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 220 Joined: 15-April 08 From: Escanaba, MI Member No.: 8,927 Region Association: None |
Thanks--makes sense now. How do I do a permanent fix? Will a drop of solder do? |
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| Project 6 |
Jun 25 2009, 05:37 PM
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#4
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large member Group: Members Posts: 359 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Utah Member No.: 51 Region Association: None  |
Get another relay board. I have one sitting on a shelf.....$20 and I'll pay shipping.
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| proto31 |
Jun 25 2009, 05:38 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 413 Joined: 2-February 06 From: Costa Mesa, CA. Member No.: 5,515 Region Association: None  |
I agree, get a new (used) relay board. It will save you a bunch of time.
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| carr914 |
Jun 25 2009, 06:43 PM
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#6
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Racer from Birth Group: Members Posts: 118,899 Joined: 2-February 04 From: Tampa,FL Member No.: 1,623 Region Association: South East States |
I've got one too - a 1971 1.7
T.C. |
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| dbgriffith75 |
Jun 25 2009, 07:03 PM
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#7
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TheGrif Group: Members Posts: 509 Joined: 25-July 07 From: Iowa, USA Member No.: 7,945 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I don't know if it would work, but if you think there's a break in the rivet, what about drilling out the old rivet and replacing it with a new one? You can get copper rivets- don't know if you can get them from a parts store but they're available online.
Just a thought. |
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| 76-914 |
Jun 25 2009, 11:36 PM
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#8
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,507 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California 
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if there is no continuity between the rivet and the surface you can clean the area and solder the rivet to the surface.
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| McMark |
Jun 25 2009, 11:39 PM
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#9
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Yup, toss in the trash and don't look back. There are enough of these guys out there that it's not worth messing with.
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| Tom |
Jun 26 2009, 11:13 AM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Yes, clean the contact and rivet really good. Wire brush carefully until it shines, them wash with alcohol. Let dry and solder. Be careful with the heat level, you are working around plastic. Did mine years ago and no problems. If after soldering, you don't have continuity, the the problem is on the back side. You will have to remove the sealant then clean as on front side and solder. Should be good as new- maybe better. There are some threads about resealing the back side also, just have to search for them.
Tom |
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