Autobody question Options

[r_towle]

Hi,

This is regarding my Eurovan.
It has quite a few rust spots ranging in size from a nickel up to a silver dollar size.
These are full blown rust...paint is all puckered.

So, there are so many that I will be repainting the van at this point.
What I am looking for is a time proven process to bring these spots back up to a level that I can paint the van.
I do not want to, nor will I, strip the whol van.

I want to know how you, a painter, would remove the paint/rust.
treat it or not (I have a sand blaster, so I can spot blast them)
bondo to fill the pitting.
primer (type)
sealer (whole van, or just the spots?)

Then I plan on using a single stage paint....no need for a concours beauty, just one solid color.

I figure I will have the pleasure of sanding the whole body down with what? 200-300 wet?
The clear coat is really scratched up...so it cant be to thick anymore.

Rich

[rick 918-S]

well, ya, spot blast them and use a rust converter on them as per the instructions on the label. I happen to like DuPont so I would recommend using Veri-Prime after properly nutralizing the rust converter. (POR Has a nice one..converter..)
A Cromate type body filler will help with extending the life of the work over the pits.

But,,, IMHO the euro vans rust is terminal. Every one I've seen rusted where ever there is a fold or seam in the metal. The steel is lacking in something and the primer adhesion allows rust to creep under it making those nasty bulls-eyes.

My friend went through the steps with his euro van. Drove it about 200 miles, put it away for the winter and in the spring the front was showing the rust growing under the paint. He ended up re-doing the front and coating it with bed liner.

Nothing wrong with single stage paint.

[r_towle]

well, ya, spot blast them and use a rust converter on them as per the instructions on the label. I happen to like DuPont so I would recommend using Veri-Prime after properly nutralizing the rust converter. (POR Has a nice one..converter..)
A Cromate type body filler will help with extending the life of the work over the pits.

But,,, IMHO the euro vans rust is terminal. Every one I've seen rusted where ever there is a fold or seam in the metal. The steel is lacking in something and the primer adhesion allows rust to creep under it making those nasty bulls-eyes.

My friend went through the steps with his euro van. Drove it about 200 miles, put it away for the winter and in the spring the front was showing the rust growing under the paint. He ended up re-doing the front and coating it with bed liner.

Nothing wrong with single stage paint.

great...
IC loads of these older Eurovan rusting...must have been something in the setup back then. the newer ones look great.

I will give it a shot, worst case is a get a few years out of it.

Rich

[rick 918-S]

well, ya, spot blast them and use a rust converter on them as per the instructions on the label. I happen to like DuPont so I would recommend using Veri-Prime after properly nutralizing the rust converter. (POR Has a nice one..converter..)
A Cromate type body filler will help with extending the life of the work over the pits.

But,,, IMHO the euro vans rust is terminal. Every one I've seen rusted where ever there is a fold or seam in the metal. The steel is lacking in something and the primer adhesion allows rust to creep under it making those nasty bulls-eyes.

My friend went through the steps with his euro van. Drove it about 200 miles, put it away for the winter and in the spring the front was showing the rust growing under the paint. He ended up re-doing the front and coating it with bed liner.

Nothing wrong with single stage paint.

great...
IC loads of these older Eurovan rusting...must have been something in the setup back then. the newer ones look great.

I will give it a shot, worst case is a get a few years out of it.

Rich

I actually like the bed liner look on the front. My friends van is white with a black front. It looks like a bra front.

[charliew]

I have a 63 jeep gladiator truck that has a ongoing problem with the seams where the fender bulges are spot welded on in their seams. I've tried three times over twenty years to stop the rust from appearing in the seams but it still comes back in small areas. Seams are hard to seal unless one side is welded shut completely and then the remaining side can be treated and sealed. It may also have something to do with body flex also though.

[rick 918-S]

I have a 63 jeep gladiator truck that has a ongoing problem with the seams where the fender bulges are spot welded on in their seams. I've tried three times over twenty years to stop the rust from appearing in the seams but it still comes back in small areas. Seams are hard to seal unless one side is welded shut completely and then the remaining side can be treated and sealed. It may also have something to do with body flex also though.

Next time you repaint try POR 15 on a foam brush. Clean what you can get on both sides of the seam, use the foam brush to apply the POR 15. press it into the seam in a dabbing method. It's thin enough to run into the seams and out anyplace that has an opening on the other side.

I did this to Sandy's 59 Bugeye after blasting. I specially used this method for the tight space between the inner wheelhouse and the outer quarter panel. I had POR leaking out of all the spot weld flanges. Places where you would never get paint to flow.

After the POR sets and you clean up the excess, use your metal conditioner, I perfer Veri-prime, then use a urothane seam sealer. This isn't fool proof but the urothane seam sealer will flex a little with the body flex.

Others may have a better method.