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> 037 MPS, Where to get a good 037 MPS
velum
post Sep 17 2009, 02:24 PM
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Hi!

In another thread, I was mentioning that I wanted to convert my '73 914 2L FI to carbs, because my MPS does not hold vacuum anymore. Some people are making me think twice, and I am now wondering what would be the best solution. The MPS is no longer available new... at least here, because I've seen it for sale on a European site for a ridiculous price, more than 800 Euros. I read that it is possible to get it rebuilt, but that the material used for the rebuilt is not the same as the original, and the result is not perfect. Still, I would like to hear from people using rebuilds. Where did they get there rebuilt done. Are they working fine? How much is it to get an MPS rebuilt?

Another solution would be to buy a used one. Anyone has a clue of where I could find a good 037 MPS? And how much I should pay or it?

Cheers!

JF
'73 914-4 2.0L FI
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jsayre914
post Sep 17 2009, 02:26 PM
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post this in the WTB/ section of the classifieds, you will find a plenty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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r_towle
post Sep 17 2009, 02:36 PM
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pm sent
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kkid
post Sep 17 2009, 04:35 PM
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I have a rebuilt unit for '74 2.0 and it works just fine. I also have a NOS 043 unit in my stash. This one works fine off course but I noticed this one is more sensitive to vacuum leaks.

I have another one which was rebuilt for '74 2.0 but did not hold vacuum. So I opened it up and found that the diaphragm and aneroid cells are still fine. By using a vacuum gauge, I pulled vacuum then I heard hiss from the seam between the electrical connector and the unit. So I plugged the seam with silicon caulking material and some vegetable oil on the rubber sealing in the two unit halves. Now the unit holds vacuum just fine by losing only 0.5in Hg in 5 min from 15in Hg.

Hope it will help before you pay $$$ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)




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tod914
post Sep 17 2009, 04:53 PM
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If your unit has already failed, why not take it apart? It's possible it just might need to be resealed. Take note of the orientaion of all the parts as you disasemble it. You should be able to tell if the diaphram is torn. I used a very thin layer of grey permatex with great success when I had a new rebuilt unit fail after 3 months. Good luck.
If your diaphram has a slight tear, maybe try something on it to seal it. Nothing to loose to by doing so.
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velum
post Sep 17 2009, 05:04 PM
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QUOTE(kkid @ Sep 17 2009, 06:35 PM) *

I have a rebuilt unit for '74 2.0 and it works just fine. I also have a NOS 043 unit in my stash. This one works fine off course but I noticed this one is more sensitive to vacuum leaks.

I have another one which was rebuilt for '74 2.0 but did not hold vacuum. So I opened it up and found that the diaphragm and aneroid cells are still fine. By using a vacuum gauge, I pulled vacuum then I heard hiss from the seam between the electrical connector and the unit. So I plugged the seam with silicon caulking material and some vegetable oil on the rubber sealing in the two unit halves. Now the unit holds vacuum just fine by losing only 0.5in Hg in 5 min from 15in Hg.

Hope it will help before you pay $$$ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Thanks Kkid! However, I need a 037 MPS for my car according to http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetP...tm#troubleshoot.

Cheers!

JF
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type47
post Sep 17 2009, 05:12 PM
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I'm not trying to promote any retail business here but I received a Performance Products/Automotion catalog yesterday that listed rebuilt MPS's for in the $250ish range so spares seem to be out there. No affiliation. Personally, if I was in your place, I'd so some digital EFI.

PS: in the classifieds is a complete 74 D-jet system for I think, a reasonable price, it includes the MPS.
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velum
post Sep 17 2009, 05:13 PM
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Hi Tod!

I just checked Permatex's website... Which product did you use? And what did you use it for? Was it as sealant or to fix a crack in the diaphragm?

Cheers!

JF

QUOTE(tod914 @ Sep 17 2009, 06:53 PM) *

If your unit has already failed, why not take it apart? It's possible it just might need to be resealed. Take note of the orientaion of all the parts as you disasemble it. You should be able to tell if the diaphram is torn. I used a very thin layer of grey permatex with great success when I had a new rebuilt unit fail after 3 months. Good luck.
If your diaphram has a slight tear, maybe try something on it to seal it. Nothing to loose to by doing so.

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velum
post Sep 17 2009, 05:15 PM
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Hi Jim!

Digital EFI... Do you mean something like the Megasquirt? It looks like an interesting solution, but it is rather expensive, isn't it?

Cheers!

JF

QUOTE(type47 @ Sep 17 2009, 07:12 PM) *

I'm not trying to promote any retail business here but I received a Performance Products/Automotion catalog yesterday that listed rebuilt MPS's for in the $250ish range so spares seem to be out there. No affiliation. Personally, if I was in your place, I'd so some digital EFI.

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kkid
post Sep 17 2009, 05:17 PM
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I know, I know, JF

I was just trying to suggest you to open it up before looking around. I need my 3 MPS for back up. One in engine bay, one in trunk and one in stash.

Good luck
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tod914
post Sep 17 2009, 08:41 PM
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Hey JF, the product I used is the Permatex Ultra grey RTV 599BR gasket maker. What's nice about it, you can use brake cleaner to remove it, if you ever need to reseal it again. Looks like they have quite a few epoxies on their site, which might be good for the diaphram. Fuel Inj Corp uses grease around the diaphram to seal it. For some reason it didn't hold the seal too long on the one I purchased.
You can run a very thin amount on both sides of the diaphram (side to the paper gasket & side to the metal plate), and also on both case halfs. Should do the trick if the diaphram is good.
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underthetire
post Sep 17 2009, 09:10 PM
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QUOTE(velum @ Sep 17 2009, 04:15 PM) *

Hi Jim!

Digital EFI... Do you mean something like the Megasquirt? It looks like an interesting solution, but it is rather expensive, isn't it?

Cheers!

JF

QUOTE(type47 @ Sep 17 2009, 07:12 PM) *

I'm not trying to promote any retail business here but I received a Performance Products/Automotion catalog yesterday that listed rebuilt MPS's for in the $250ish range so spares seem to be out there. No affiliation. Personally, if I was in your place, I'd so some digital EFI.



I did my megasquirt for about 275.00
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velum
post Sep 17 2009, 09:25 PM
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QUOTE(underthetire @ Sep 17 2009, 11:10 PM) *

I did my megasquirt for about 275.00


Really!? I thought just the parts were more expansive than that. Can you tell me a bit more? What parts did you have to order? What is involved in installing such a system? Is it a lot of work?

Cheers!

JF
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underthetire
post Sep 17 2009, 10:18 PM
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QUOTE(velum @ Sep 17 2009, 08:25 PM) *

QUOTE(underthetire @ Sep 17 2009, 11:10 PM) *

I did my megasquirt for about 275.00


Really!? I thought just the parts were more expansive than that. Can you tell me a bit more? What parts did you have to order? What is involved in installing such a system? Is it a lot of work?

Cheers!

JF


Im really bad about not documenting my projects. I get started then, well i just have to keep going.
I bought the MS2 kit. ($247)It was a fair amount of soldering to put it together. I was able to scrounge up an O2 sensor and a throttle position sensor. Welded in the o2 bung ($15) The stock head temp sensor, and fuel injectors work fine. You no longer need the stock tps, mps, decel valve, aux air regulator and cold start injector. A lot of vacuum lines go away, thats for sure. It took me about 10 hours after I had the megasquirt put together for the initial start up of the engine. Tuning is fun and done with a laptop. I don't know if the tunning ever ends (at least for me) cause I enjoy it.


If you can't find the parts for free or almost then you may need
O2 sensor around 50 for narrow band, $$$ for wide band
TPS sensor around 30
Air intake sensor around 20 (I think some people have used the stock one as well)
wire, or buy the somewhat pre-made harness 5-60
DB25 to DB9 communications cable (for the laptop programming) about 5
If your using an electronic module in the dizzy, a resistor (about a buck )(if you want ignition control as well)
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