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> Castellated Nut, How do you loosen the sucker
tuff914
post Oct 23 2009, 02:06 AM
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Is there a secret to the castellated nut on the back wheel, I'm using a
3 ft breaker bar and all I'm achieving is bending my sidchrome "T" socket
handle.
Anyone know of a trick to cracking it.
Thanks in advance
John
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cwpeden
post Oct 23 2009, 02:58 AM
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Take out the cotter pin?

Or a good solid impact gun.
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zymurgist
post Oct 23 2009, 06:37 AM
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PB Blaster (or your equivalent penetrating oil) and an impact gun are probably your best bets. Leverage may not be enough... if you don't have an impact gun, use the penetrant and whack the nut with a hammer and brass punch (don't hit the threads) to try and work the penetrating oil into all the crevices.
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SLITS
post Oct 23 2009, 08:08 AM
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1/2" breaker bar, socket and about a 3' section of pipe as a cheater bar. Jump on the cheater bar with all your weight ... you may break the breaker bar though.

Impact gun works the best (most of the time).
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tradisrad
post Oct 23 2009, 08:34 AM
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That bolt is torqued to 250 lbs. It can be tough to remove. I used an impact gun to remove mine, but my impact gun would not remove one from my second 914 and i used about a 4' bar and jumped on it. Are you replacing the wheel bearings?
I just torqued mine last night and that was a ton of fun.
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GeorgeRud
post Oct 23 2009, 08:41 AM
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I also found that a metal pipe that's fitted over my breaker bar (Craftsman of course) lets me remove the nut. I used a 4 foot piece of pipe, and if you break the breaker bar, you can always return it for a new one.

Remember, torque is force x distance in this case, so a 100 lb. weight 4 feet from the pivot will be 400 ft lbs, so you should be able to get it to come off with enough PB Blaster (or my favorite, Kroil), heat, and bouncing on the bar!
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Gigamight
post Oct 23 2009, 10:12 AM
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Sorry to hijack, but I was going to start a similar thread myself, except I think I did things in the wrong order. I have no brakes attached, and the tranny is out of the car and I am trying to get the dang nut off now. Any suggestions on how to keep the hub from spinning other than putting the tranny back in and the wheels back on and taking it off jack stands?
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aircooledtechguy
post Oct 23 2009, 10:47 AM
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This is the tool I used to remove these from a parts car. They will hold the hub against the ground while you use a long breaker bar.

Attached Image

They're called a Helping Hand Tool
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brp986s
post Oct 23 2009, 10:52 AM
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If you're hopping on your cheater and your breaker snaps get ready to do some fancy footwork. I didn't want to risk it so I got craftsman 3/4 " breaker and sockets. However, the weak point of the 3/4" breaker is no stronger than the 1/2" breaker. Thanks for nothing. Seems craftsman is going harbor freight on us.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 23 2009, 11:29 AM
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I use a 4 ft long piece of 2 inch angle iron, drilled for 2 lug bolts. Propped against the ground, it provides plenty of counter force for the socket, breaker bar, and "extension" (cheater). My bar is drilled for numerous applications, such as flywheels, 4 and 5 lug drums/rotors, front pulleys, and such. The Cap'n
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GeorgeRud
post Oct 23 2009, 12:26 PM
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I forgot to include in my post that you do need to have some way of holding the hub stationary.

I also drilled angle iron to fit over the studs on my 914-6 to hold the hub stationary by having the long end resting on the ground. When I went to remove the nut, it did put a slight bend in the bar as well.

At least with the Craftsman tools, you can return them when (not if) they break. They definitely went Harbor Freight a good number of years ago!
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Elliot Cannon
post Oct 23 2009, 01:32 PM
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Use a 3/4 inch breaker bar, a 4 foot extension pipe. Have someone apply much pressure/weight etc. at the end of the cheater. Use a BFH on the cheater bar about where the end of the breaker bar is. Spit in one hand and then rub it into the other hand. Lift up the hammer and yell "OK you muther effer, you are coming off NOW". Stare at the point you want to hit and using that "keep your eye on the ball technique" hit that sucker a good whack. This of course is all done after using PB plaster or some other penetrant. Good luck.
Cheers, Elliot
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DBCooper
post Oct 23 2009, 01:42 PM
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If you've done all of the above and that pig still hasn't budged then kneel and pray.

If that doesn't work then throw it in the truck and take it to any local truck repair shop (look it up). Have them take their 3/4" impact gun to it. It will take them no more than 5 seconds and won't even look like it was stuck. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Keep this in mind when you're bouncing up and down on that 4 foot cheater on your breaker bar and wondering just when the whole thing's going to snap and where and how hard that's going to dump you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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6freak
post Oct 23 2009, 01:42 PM
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BIG BALLS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) IF YOU DONT HAVE THEM TAKE YOUR NUTS FROM YOUR WIFES PURSE ,SPRINKLE SOME WATER ON THEM AND GROW A PAIR (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) ..Caps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ..just poken ya man ...those things are a bitch ,good luck
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jhadler
post Oct 23 2009, 03:32 PM
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QUOTE(DBCooper @ Oct 23 2009, 11:42 AM) *

Keep this in mind when you're bouncing up and down on that 4 foot cheater on your breaker bar and wondering just when the whole thing's going to snap and where and how hard that's going to dump you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)


I would recommend against actually jumping on the bar. A sustained weight on the end of a long lever arm is safer. 4' steel pipe, you wouldn't even need to put all your weight on it.

-Josh2
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 23 2009, 04:03 PM
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QUOTE(brp986s @ Oct 23 2009, 11:52 AM) *

If you're hopping on your cheater and your breaker snaps get ready to do some fancy footwork.


I love that feeling. You see it happen. Time slows to the point where you are sure you have enough to take corrective action. The tool snaps, part breaks, etc, and from that point you are your own passenger as you stumble backwards through the garage, eventually tripping over something and going ass over teacups. Its the extreme apparent slowness that is so interesting. It may be all over in a second, but at the time it seems to go on an on.

Zach
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jhadler
post Oct 23 2009, 06:09 PM
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Except for the part that actually broke under load. It will tend to depart the scene of the crime at a great velocity. Hopefully it simply overtakes you and it imbeds itself in the wall before you reach it. Otherwise, it might imbed itself in you...

-Josh2
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Jeffs9146
post Oct 23 2009, 06:44 PM
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I went to a tool rental place and rented a 3/4 impact gun and hooked it to my compressor!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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DBCooper
post Oct 23 2009, 09:18 PM
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Now THAT'S what works!!! More horsepower, cures everything. Works if you have the trailing arms out as well.
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type2man
post Oct 24 2009, 05:51 PM
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Attached Image





Problem solved.....36mm welded onto an iron bar with a slight angle to clear flares.
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