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> what oil pump would you use
wayne1234
post Nov 20 2009, 12:53 AM
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Well I'm going to order some parts today to put the engine back together, I basically have a stock 2.0 with a mild cam, and carbs, nothing special, should I just get a new factory oil pump or something else, I'M not gonna race it or any thing crazy, so Im thinking a stock setup would be fine where is the best place to get one? or am I crazy not to get "Blank set up" . Thanks and again recommend a vendor.
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sww914
post Nov 20 2009, 01:03 AM
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My experience with the aftermarket oil pumps is that their internal machining leaves a lot to be desired. I use the best used pump that I can scavenge out of my piles of parts. If it's in the budget I go for new OEM.
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type47
post Nov 20 2009, 06:44 AM
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QUOTE(sww914 @ Nov 19 2009, 11:03 PM) *

I use the best used pump that I can scavenge out of my piles of parts.


How do you test the pump to see if it's still usable? (I have some used pumps that I'd like to know if they're still good)
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jmill
post Nov 20 2009, 07:53 AM
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There was a big thread about this. I believe that you should talk with Jake. IIRC he recommends a modified T1 pump. Call him.
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tat2dphreak
post Nov 20 2009, 08:11 AM
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I used a shadak 30mm pump. jake said the shadak's are not as consistent as they used to be, though.
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Mark Henry
post Nov 20 2009, 08:40 AM
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Small engine so a shadak 26mm pump is all you need. Shadek's quallity issues are nothing new, Gene Berg was O-ringing the pumps long before Gene died in '96. this O-ring is done very similar to the o-ring on the T4 pump.
If the pump drops in it's no good, should have a hair of a press fit.

One part of the "bag of tricks" that many builders don't like to tell you.
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wayne1234
post Nov 20 2009, 11:57 AM
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how do you know if they are any good? someone said mine looke funny?
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ME733
post Nov 20 2009, 04:55 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) I have used MELLING oil pumps with great success., The housing is cast iron and will maintain the center to center distances of the pump gears much better than aluminum. The port openings into and out of the pump can be blended with porting tools, opened and smoothed with great success. The gears are extremely interferance press fit, so the "spinning shaft "problem does not exist.(never heard of one doing this)...the back housing, against the cam gear, is solid...no extra nuts... to assemble housing ...in the way..(or to screw with) SOME people will disagree, because the OIL PUMP housing is cast IRON, and the Engine BLOCK install area is ALUMINUM. Maybe it will be 190 /220 degrees. the expansion differences (if much)(at all).and the worry factor ?...Can be ELIMINATED by Radusing the inner /outer mating surfaces at the crankcase and installing a ..O..ring...at the pickup tube entry. now you got two seals, the oem one and the one you will creatate. Big deal. the oil pump is a critical component of the engine , and should be cleaned, inspected, assembled, "feel Tested" for binding and smoothness of rotation. I'm talking about "BLUEPRINTING " the damn pump guys. Its worth the extra trouble to know your oil pump is going to work properly perfectly. And...MELLING has more experience, and manufactures more oil pumps than all the rest of the "trick "oil pump companies combined and has been doing so for Years. :the end. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Drums66
post Nov 21 2009, 04:01 PM
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QUOTE(ME733 @ Nov 20 2009, 02:55 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) I have used MELLING oil pumps with great success., The housing is cast iron and will maintain the center to center distances of the pump gears much better than aluminum. The port openings into and out of the pump can be blended with porting tools, opened and smoothed with great success. The gears are extremely interferance press fit, so the "spinning shaft "problem does not exist.(never heard of one doing this)...the back housing, against the cam gear, is solid...no extra nuts... to assemble housing ...in the way..(or to screw with) SOME people will disagree, because the OIL PUMP housing is cast IRON, and the Engine BLOCK install area is ALUMINUM. Maybe it will be 190 /220 degrees. the expansion differences (if much)(at all).and the worry factor ?...Can be ELIMINATED by Radusing the inner /outer mating surfaces at the crankcase and installing a ..O..ring...at the pickup tube entry. now you got two seals, the oem one and the one you will creatate. Big deal. the oil pump is a critical component of the engine , and should be cleaned, inspected, assembled, "feel Tested" for binding and smoothness of rotation. I'm talking about "BLUEPRINTING " the damn pump guys. Its worth the extra trouble to know your oil pump is going to work properly perfectly. And...MELLING has more experience, and manufactures more oil pumps than all the rest of the "trick "oil pump companies combined and has been doing so for Years. :the end. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

I like them!....using them for decades,no adverse effects yet!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Jake Raby
post Nov 21 2009, 04:41 PM
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I'll post some pics of a Melling pump on Monday...
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StratPlayer
post Nov 22 2009, 03:14 PM
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I'm running a melling in my new engine build. Works just fine
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Cap'n Krusty
post Nov 22 2009, 04:12 PM
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And, besides all those features, you get, free of charge, LEAKS!

I use nothing but stock pumps on stockish engines. In fact, you're generally safe cleaning, insoecting, sealing, and reusing your old one.

BTW, I have a nearly new Melling pump for sale. Cheap.

The Cap'n
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Jake Raby
post Nov 22 2009, 06:12 PM
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In testing now.. Available in both + and - .002 sizes to accommodate the differences in pump bore IDs that we are beginning to see as the engines exceed or approach 4 decades of use.

Thats solid billet, much tighter gear/ body clearances than anything else.

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StratPlayer
post Nov 22 2009, 07:50 PM
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The melling that I have on my engine has no leaks what so ever.
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Jake Raby
post Nov 22 2009, 09:07 PM
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QUOTE(StratPlayer @ Nov 22 2009, 06:50 PM) *

The melling that I have on my engine has no leaks what so ever.


That you can see... They leak internally when they don't leak externally. Its usually because they aren't round.
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Jake Raby
post Nov 23 2009, 09:33 AM
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Here is your modern day Melling pump.

This one failed a short time ago upon start up in a test engine on the dyno. I was quick on the switch and the engine wasn't compromised, but I was very lucky.

The oil pump drive isn't centered in the body of the pump with this unit so it snapped off the drive tang. Thats a fault I had never seen or heard of prior to this, now I inspect every pump for it no matter who made it.

Components are constantly changing. What worked 35 years ago or just last month doesn't mean a damn thing. We see this more and more with the AFU Economy as companies are cutting corners to stay alive and sending out JUNK in some instances.

Nothing ever stays the same- become set in your ways and you will get bitten in the ass. Constant awareness is key.
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craig downs
post Nov 24 2009, 12:56 AM
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I was using a Schadek oil pump and got scared of the low pressure at idle when the oil got warm. So while I'm waiting for Jake to release his oil pump I replaced the Schadek with a new Melling oil pump i got back from the early 80s. The oil pressure is a little bit better by about 5 lbs. with the Melling. At least the oil light doesn't threaten come on anymore.
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Jake Raby
post Nov 24 2009, 09:16 AM
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Here is another...

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ME733
post Nov 24 2009, 10:46 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ....Very Intresting...I wonder what caused the drive tang , where It broke off, to TURN BLUE......on both of them. Seems like with the offset that bad , the oil pump drive tang simply would not align with the camshafts internal indent, and insert into the cam, and may have been driven by the camgear bolts, which were hammering on the drive tang, causing the heat indicator (blueing) and ultimate breakage, (snapped it off). I wonder if that pump was actually for a 914 or something else. Any identifible part number?. This should be a good example of the fact that all parts should be checked before using them., especially If the oil pump drive and "idler" gears are not centered / centerlined, with the camshaft/ center of crankcase, and centerlined in the pump housing you have a defectively manufactured pump or one for some other application. Thanks Jake for the photographs and information. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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StratPlayer
post Nov 24 2009, 10:52 AM
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How many out there are running melling pumps and have had the problems that jake described. Curious.
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