crapin out in first, ? |
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crapin out in first, ? |
itsaporsche914 |
Feb 18 2010, 06:22 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 169 Joined: 5-August 05 From: cave creek az. Member No.: 4,541 |
ok . so my 2.0 with 44 webers. runs great, most of the time. but now i notice this. 1st gear 4k rpm , just before i shift it seems to sputter or something. never happens in 2 thru 5 . just 1st. at throttling rpms. also its sort of fumey. the sound is sort of like uhnnnnnnnnnnn and then UHNNNNNNNNNNNNN. i think its carb or linkage related. octy bar link.
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VaccaRabite |
Feb 18 2010, 09:15 AM
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#2
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,456 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
44s are a bit big for a 2.0. That said, your top end should be screaming, not dogging.
Do you ever run the car in other gears up to that RPM? Are your carbs balanced? Is your jetting right? Is you engine built for carbs, or stock with carbs on it to replace faulty djet? Is your engine otherwise in good tune? (valves, compression, spark, etc?) Zach |
Cap'n Krusty |
Feb 18 2010, 11:30 AM
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#3
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
You shift at 4K RPM in first? Why?
The Cap'n |
SirAndy |
Feb 18 2010, 12:26 PM
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#4
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,669 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
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itsaporsche914 |
Feb 18 2010, 03:31 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 169 Joined: 5-August 05 From: cave creek az. Member No.: 4,541 |
the car runs good most of the time. thats why im thinking linkage or something. it had the carbs installed back in 84 with the appropriate engine mods. im guessing. it only hesitates and runs strange at 3500 and up in 1st gear only. 2,3,4,5 are fine. plenty of power up to 5500. i notice it in parking lot situations . gas it hard and let off. spin tires etc. the car likes to be driven like that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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underthetire |
Feb 18 2010, 03:42 PM
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#6
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Ok, just stay with me here, cause i'm thinking as I type. if carbs were installed in 84, some 26 years ago, they need to be re-built-period. Now, as far as the 1st only problem, logic would say you were going from a idle to whatever RPM, keeping some RPM in it as you shift to 2,3,4,5. So, along my grey logic, let say the advance is sticking in the dizzy-but not totally stuck, you would get some very mild power until the weights "sprung" out giving you instant advance. Keeping the rpm up would keep them advanced. Once you went down to idle they bounce back. Does the idle vary a lot?
What do think of my grey logic ? |
itsaporsche914 |
Feb 18 2010, 03:47 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 169 Joined: 5-August 05 From: cave creek az. Member No.: 4,541 |
Ok, just stay with me here, cause i'm thinking as I type. if carbs were installed in 84, some 26 years ago, they need to be re-built-period. Now, as far as the 1st only problem, logic would say you were going from a idle to whatever RPM, keeping some RPM in it as you shift to 2,3,4,5. So, along my grey logic, let say the advance is sticking in the dizzy-but not totally stuck, you would get some very mild power until the weights "sprung" out giving you instant advance. Keeping the rpm up would keep them advanced. Once you went down to idle they bounce back. Does the idle vary a lot? What do think of my grey logic ? yes on the rebuild. ive done it twice. and have taken them all the way down and cleaned them . heres a dumb question. with carbs does the dizzy advance. i have the basic electronic type. no points. i think. this is a new problem. |
underthetire |
Feb 18 2010, 03:48 PM
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#8
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Ok, just stay with me here, cause i'm thinking as I type. if carbs were installed in 84, some 26 years ago, they need to be re-built-period. Now, as far as the 1st only problem, logic would say you were going from a idle to whatever RPM, keeping some RPM in it as you shift to 2,3,4,5. So, along my grey logic, let say the advance is sticking in the dizzy-but not totally stuck, you would get some very mild power until the weights "sprung" out giving you instant advance. Keeping the rpm up would keep them advanced. Once you went down to idle they bounce back. Does the idle vary a lot? What do think of my grey logic ? yes on the rebuild. ive done it twice. and have taken them all the way down and cleaned them . heres a dumb question. with carbs does the dizzy advance. i have the basic electronic type. no points. i think. this is a new problem. Yes, has to. Put a 3n1 oil on the felt washer inside the dizzy under the rotor and try it. |
itsaporsche914 |
Feb 18 2010, 04:22 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 169 Joined: 5-August 05 From: cave creek az. Member No.: 4,541 |
ok . ill do it . thanks for the help
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itsaporsche914 |
Feb 18 2010, 04:55 PM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 169 Joined: 5-August 05 From: cave creek az. Member No.: 4,541 |
no felt. is that ok?. but i did put a few drops of 3n1 under the rotor(pulled it off) and it seems to of helped. should i get a felt washer ?
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underthetire |
Feb 18 2010, 05:00 PM
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#11
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
no felt. is that ok?. but i did put a few drops of 3n1 under the rotor(pulled it off) and it seems to of helped. should i get a felt washer ? Well, dunno. That helps oil the advance for longer service life. I might have an extra one or three. I'll take a look tonight. If not, I wouldn't worry about it. Just put a drop in when you change the oil. |
SirAndy |
Feb 18 2010, 05:39 PM
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#12
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,669 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
it only hesitates and runs strange at 3500 and up in 1st gear only. Smaller venturis should help with the off idle transition. If the venturis are too large, you don't get enough air velocity when you get on the main jets. I had the exact same problem on my 2056. Went to smaller venturis and voila, flat spot gone ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy |
tornik550 |
Feb 18 2010, 06:58 PM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,248 Joined: 29-January 07 From: Ohio Member No.: 7,486 Region Association: None |
I have a very nice set of weber 40 idfs and I am need of a set of 44 idf's- wanna trade???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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ME733 |
Feb 18 2010, 07:17 PM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 842 Joined: 25-June 08 From: Atlanta Ga. Member No.: 9,209 Region Association: South East States |
no felt. is that ok?. but i did put a few drops of 3n1 under the rotor(pulled it off) and it seems to of helped. should i get a felt washer ? ..........Yes get a felt washer.....and move the rotor back and fourth, drop of oil on the spring, in the plate if you can see it. Seems like the advance mechanism is sticking..........also check the fuel pressure and fuel pump....A weak pump may not be able to keep the float boal full under all out acceleration.(hard fast acceleration as in 1st gear... check float level, and needle and seat.....recheck the gap on the electronic "points"...........M.M. |
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