 E Brake, Wires / Route |
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| EdwardBlume |
 May 16 2010, 05:53 PM
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#1
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914 Wizard  Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California 
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I'm reinstalling the ebrake switch on the '74. How many wires? One? And does it route from around back, forward under the lever, and through the circle, or somewhere else?
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Replies(1 - 7)
| detoxcowboy |
May 16 2010, 08:03 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,294 Joined: 30-January 08 Member No.: 8,642 Region Association: Africa |
QUOTE(RobW @ May 16 2010, 04:53 PM)  I'm reinstalling the ebrake switch on the '74. How many wires? One? And does it route from around back, forward under the lever, and through the circle, or somewhere else? I have a 74' One wire, mine is routed from under the center cushion where main harness is and comes acrross in front of the driver's seat under the floor vinyl... I do not know for certain the route intended at the factory but either my or yours both appear ackward. But definately 1 wire.. |
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| EdwardBlume |
May 16 2010, 08:09 PM
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#3
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California
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Thanks for looking SB. I strung it inside the panel to the backing, but then figured the circle underneath it is the entry point...
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| McMark |
May 16 2010, 08:12 PM
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#4
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Factory routing is to exit the center tunnel in the same location as the backpad light wires and the seat belt wires, then run behind the drivers seat, behind the rubber sound pad (which holds it up off the floor) and then to the left of the seat. There is a small round grommet that cushions the entrance into the seat cross member, and then it plugs into the switch. Make sure the screw that affixes the switch makes a good ground. Most of the time it's fine, so don't do anything special to make it ground. But do check it with a multimeter once it's installed, just to be sure.
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| detoxcowboy |
May 16 2010, 08:49 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,294 Joined: 30-January 08 Member No.: 8,642 Region Association: Africa |
Thanks Mc Mark Now I can re route mine more factory tidy..
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| EdwardBlume |
May 17 2010, 10:22 AM
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#6
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California
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Thanks Mark! You sure know your stuff.
I'm debating whether to go with the backpad rubber or not.. what do you think? |
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| McMark |
May 17 2010, 12:17 PM
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#7
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Unless it's a racecar, less sound = good. But in my car I won't be using the factory piece inside, since good adhesion is a must and new sound deadeners are so much more versatile. I'll probably end up with two layers of low frequency deadener and one layer of high frequency deadener in my car, both from Second Skin.
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| biosurfer1 |
May 17 2010, 12:51 PM
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#8
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Teener fo Life! Group: Members Posts: 3,020 Joined: 3-August 03 From: Roseville, CA Member No.: 977 Region Association: Northern California |
Sounds like Second Skin is the anti-URY product. They keep pressing the fact that their product is much heavier than anyone elses.
QUOTE(McMark @ May 17 2010, 11:17 AM) Unless it's a racecar, less sound = good. But in my car I won't be using the factory piece inside, since good adhesion is a must and new sound deadeners are so much more versatile. I'll probably end up with two layers of low frequency deadener and one layer of high frequency deadener in my car, both from Second Skin. |
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