Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Longs Reinforcement Questions, I don't understand the different kits or options yet
Corkus
post Jul 27 2010, 12:01 PM
Post #1


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 22
Joined: 14-June 10
From: N. Calif & S. AZ
Member No.: 11,834
Region Association: None



Please tell me about the different ways to reinforce the longs on the 914. My car is on the rack and it is time to reinforce this area and things are moving too fast for me to keep up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I have seen the Engman Inner Long Reinforcement kit and the Tangerine Racing Door Sills kit. I think I saw a third kit that reinforced the footwells at the same time as the longs but I can't find that kit again.

I'm confused about the different kits, the terms that describe the longs and the different ways to reinforce this part of the car.

Please clue me in if you know. I'm not even sure what the difference is between "Longs" and "Inner Longs", if there is any. So, you can assume I know nothing here.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks all.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
2 Pages V  1 2 >  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 19)
McMark
post Jul 27 2010, 12:07 PM
Post #2


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 20,179
Joined: 13-March 03
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Member No.: 419
Region Association: None



The part you linked to for Tangerine Racing Door Sill kits are not parts of the structure of the car.

The long is a box, or square tube. It was assembled from two C shaped metal stampings. The Engman inner long kit, welds onto the inner C section.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Corkus
post Jul 27 2010, 01:02 PM
Post #3


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 22
Joined: 14-June 10
From: N. Calif & S. AZ
Member No.: 11,834
Region Association: None



Thanks Mark.

So when people talk about strengthening the longs, they are usually talking about adding strength to the inner longs like with the Engman kit.

Are there other options people choose short of a roll cage or is it just about always the Engman kit?

Did I see a kit that reinforced the footwells along with the longs?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Root_Werks
post Jul 27 2010, 01:10 PM
Post #4


Village Idiot
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,456
Joined: 25-May 04
From: About 5NM from Canada
Member No.: 2,105
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



The weakest area of the long is about were the E-brake indentation is located given the whole car is free of rustiuos-cancer.

The Engman inner kit is about the best you can do to any 914 without doing a cage of some type.

Search for Engman kit here, there is a couple of really good threads on the install.

I've done a few myself. Makes a huge difference in the car.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Grelber
post Jul 27 2010, 02:57 PM
Post #5


Insert favorite Don Rickles joke here.
***

Group: Members
Posts: 690
Joined: 30-May 06
From: McKinney, Texas
Member No.: 6,107
Region Association: Southwest Region



I have the Brad Mayeur (914ltd) outer long reinforcement kit , and the Rich Johnson rear reinforcement kit installed, and am very happy with both.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Corkus
post Jul 27 2010, 10:25 PM
Post #6


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 22
Joined: 14-June 10
From: N. Calif & S. AZ
Member No.: 11,834
Region Association: None



OK, so now I'm getting somewhere. These are innner longs redone with the Engman kit.
Attached Image


And these are outer longs done with Brad Mayeur's kit
Attached Image

I'll have to look for the Rich Johnson Rear Reinforcement kit. Don't know about that yet.

I'm thinking of going with both the Engman and Mayeur kits.

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
siverson
post Jul 27 2010, 10:36 PM
Post #7


Advanced Member
****

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 2,451
Joined: 5-May 03
From: San Diego, CA
Member No.: 654
Region Association: Southern California



> I'm thinking of going with both the Engman and Mayeur kits.

That's a bad idea. I have the Mayeur kit on my car (it was pre Engman) and it's nice, and very strong, but VERY heavy. If I was to do it again I'd try the Engman kit just because I've heard so many good things (and it may be lighter).

-Steve
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Elliot Cannon
post Jul 27 2010, 11:38 PM
Post #8


914 Guru
*****

Group: Retired Members
Posts: 8,487
Joined: 29-December 06
From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast)
Member No.: 7,407
Region Association: None



Go with the Engman kit. When you do, drill the holes bigger. (I drilled mine out to 5/8 inch). Makes for a stronger bond.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
bugsy0
post Jul 28 2010, 09:20 AM
Post #9


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 191
Joined: 26-July 06
Member No.: 6,508
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jul 27 2010, 11:38 PM) *

Go with the Engman kit. When you do, drill the holes bigger. (I drilled mine out to 5/8 inch). Makes for a stronger bond.

I like the idea of larger holes - stronger bond for sure. What do you coat the steel with on the mating surfaces of the original long and the new layer? I wonder about moisture between the two layers of steel causing problems.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Bartlett 914
post Jul 28 2010, 09:30 AM
Post #10


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,216
Joined: 30-August 05
From: South Elgin IL
Member No.: 4,707
Region Association: Upper MidWest



I am sure the Engman kit is very good but the Brad Mayeur kit does a better job. First it is heaver and stronger. Second, it better connects the passenger compartment with the rear of the car. I have a junk car I will cut up later that has the Brad Mayeur kit. The longs are totally trash. The Hell Hole is a canyon. The door gaps do NOT move when lifting the car. The frame is stronger than my daily driver. Those door gaps move more than I like when lifting the car.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
IronHillRestorations
post Jul 28 2010, 11:56 AM
Post #11


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,768
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None



Brad Mayeur's kit reinforces the outer suspension mounts, and the Engman kit does not. If your car has any corrosion on the outer rear portion of the long, then I'd go for both kits.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
cstone12
post Jul 29 2010, 11:32 AM
Post #12


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 10
Joined: 20-February 07
From: Cleveland
Member No.: 7,550



QUOTE(bugsy0 @ Jul 28 2010, 11:20 AM) *

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jul 27 2010, 11:38 PM) *

Go with the Engman kit. When you do, drill the holes bigger. (I drilled mine out to 5/8 inch). Makes for a stronger bond.

I like the idea of larger holes - stronger bond for sure. What do you coat the steel with on the mating surfaces of the original long and the new layer? I wonder about moisture between the two layers of steel causing problems.


I would like to know the answer to this too, anyone?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
VaccaRabite
post Jul 29 2010, 12:38 PM
Post #13


En Garde!
**********

Group: Admin
Posts: 13,584
Joined: 15-December 03
From: Dallastown, PA
Member No.: 1,435
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



QUOTE(cstone12 @ Jul 29 2010, 12:32 PM) *

QUOTE(bugsy0 @ Jul 28 2010, 11:20 AM) *

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jul 27 2010, 11:38 PM) *

Go with the Engman kit. When you do, drill the holes bigger. (I drilled mine out to 5/8 inch). Makes for a stronger bond.

I like the idea of larger holes - stronger bond for sure. What do you coat the steel with on the mating surfaces of the original long and the new layer? I wonder about moisture between the two layers of steel causing problems.


I would like to know the answer to this too, anyone?

Weld through primer.

Though many people still buff off the primer around where they are welding, as it makes for cleaner, easier welds.

Zach
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
nsyr
post Jul 29 2010, 12:40 PM
Post #14


Because I Can
**

Group: Members
Posts: 314
Joined: 16-May 04
From: Tampa, FL
Member No.: 2,073



QUOTE(cstone12 @ Jul 29 2010, 01:32 PM) *

QUOTE(bugsy0 @ Jul 28 2010, 11:20 AM) *

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jul 27 2010, 11:38 PM) *

Go with the Engman kit. When you do, drill the holes bigger. (I drilled mine out to 5/8 inch). Makes for a stronger bond.

I like the idea of larger holes - stronger bond for sure. What do you coat the steel with on the mating surfaces of the original long and the new layer? I wonder about moisture between the two layers of steel causing problems.


I would like to know the answer to this too, anyone?


weldable primer

example: http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=weldab...Q&ts=custom
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
charliew
post Aug 10 2010, 06:12 PM
Post #15


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,363
Joined: 31-July 07
From: Crawford, TX.
Member No.: 7,958



I know this is about stiffening kits but hopefully not about covering up rusted longs. I haven't seen the mayer kit in person and it may be good. I am not a fan of covering up rusted out body panels that are the structure and strength of a unibody car. Replace the rusted out parts then put the stiffening kits on to make the tub stronger than it was to begin with. Take pictures of the repair to show it was done correctly and the rusted out areas were not just covered up. When you buy a rusted tub and start pricing repair panels and the labor to put them on correctly, you will quickly realize that a rust free tub is worth a lot.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
d914
post Aug 10 2010, 08:45 PM
Post #16


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,337
Joined: 12-July 03
From: Atlanta, ga
Member No.: 904
Region Association: South East States



throw tagerine racing back into the picture w its rear console kit, I did the engman thing and the rear console and suspension ear thing.. if wider tires are in the offing reinforcing the suspension ear and the rear console should prevent tearing it up..
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
EdwardBlume
post Aug 10 2010, 09:13 PM
Post #17


914 Wizard
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 12,338
Joined: 2-January 03
From: SLO
Member No.: 81
Region Association: Central California



Doesn't it all depend on what you use it for, or am I a fool for not installing an engman kit when my car was in pieces?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
cstone12
post Aug 10 2010, 09:29 PM
Post #18


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 10
Joined: 20-February 07
From: Cleveland
Member No.: 7,550



What about the ClamShells? Are those a good option?
Link here->Rocker Clamshell
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Justinp71
post Aug 10 2010, 10:32 PM
Post #19


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,597
Joined: 11-October 04
From: Sacramento, CA
Member No.: 2,922
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Jul 28 2010, 08:30 AM) *

I am sure the Engman kit is very good but the Brad Mayeur kit does a better job. First it is heaver and stronger. Second, it better connects the passenger compartment with the rear of the car. I have a junk car I will cut up later that has the Brad Mayeur kit. The longs are totally trash. The Hell Hole is a canyon. The door gaps do NOT move when lifting the car. The frame is stronger than my daily driver. Those door gaps move more than I like when lifting the car.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I like the brad meyeur kit because it is stronger and it ties the rear trailing arm up to the very front of the rocker, so it strengthens the rear area more. It only weighs 11 more lbs than the engman kit...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
peteyd
post Aug 11 2010, 10:46 AM
Post #20


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 729
Joined: 27-March 08
From: Elora, Ontario, Canada
Member No.: 8,858
Region Association: Canada



Restoration design also has a outer longitudinal reinforcement piece as well. WE call it the frame stiffener. Fairly easy to install, and adds quite a bit of rigidity. Got one installed on my car.

http://www.restoration-design.com/installation_ss346.htm

Pete
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

2 Pages V  1 2 >
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 31st October 2024 - 06:04 PM