Rebuilding the rear brake with some “small” problems, Castle nut does not move - wtf!!! Options

[draganc]

Hi everybody!

I’m in the progress of rebuilding my rear brakes and are having problems loosing the rear castle nut, which holds the shaft.
Not really a surprise since the car was sitting for the last 8 years w/o usage.

I have used W40 for several days. No result. I have torched (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (only with a hand/propane torch) the nut several times up to about 650F. Used a torque wrench while the nut is cold and hot. No result - after 5 hours.

I’m sure someone else had a similar problem.

Any tips advise? Did anyone ever cut the nut of the shaft? How did it work out? Which tool did you use? Will a Dremmel work?

Thanks a lot for any advise/tips.
Dragan

[underthetire]

Why are you taking the nut off to do brakes?

[VaccaRabite]

Did you pull the cotter pin?

You do not need to pull this nut to remove the brakes, BTW.

But I used the biggest air wrench that Home Depot sold, and it took the nut off in a matter of seconds.

If you don't want to do that, get a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a length of pipe to use as a cheater handle, You will be able to remove it.

Zach

[draganc]

Thanks!

Yes, I did remove the pin and I used a pipe on a ratched to extend the force. Nada.

I know I don"t have to remove the nut for the brakes brake job but I want to remove the trailing arm to repaint it and install new bushing.

[underthetire]

Well, you didn't say that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Your gonna need new wheel bearings if you pull the flanges BTW. The nuts are on really tight. Like Zach said, a 1/2 breaker bar and a large cheater pipe. Figure somewhere in the 300FTLB range and age/rust etc...

And you will explode a ratchet. You really need a breaker bar.

[john rogers]

Please see my answer on the other board.

[draganc]

Here a little progress report:

1) snapped my breaker bar at the bend – I’m glad the kids were not home.

2) researched PB Blast and Kroil. Thank you porschemikey!!
Based on all the comments I found about both products, you could conclude that Kroil works as good as PB Blast but much faster.

Though, after reading both MSDS, I got a can of PB Blast at Lowes for $4.
Why? Kroil’s MSDS lists following toxic chemicals: Aliphatic Alcohol, Glycol Ether and Trimethylbenzene. I don’t know the first compound but Glycol Ether can make you blind and Trimethylbenzene can effects your brain functions and harm your reproduction organs. PB Blast appeared to be safer. Of course you should always be aware how you handle any chemical i.e. Vodka, Tequila or Jaegermeister.

3) applied PB blast several times over the past hours, but w/o any progress. BUT, I applied that stuff as well on the nut that holds the shock……and….got that sucker off. Hurray. Wouldn’t move before.

FYI, PB Blast is easily available at Lowes and others. If you want Kroil, go to their webpage (http://www.kanolabs.com/google) and you will be able to place a online order.

[MrKona]

Do you have a friend with an impact wrench and compressor?

I was expecting the worst taking those things off, but it was pretty easy with an impact wrench. Quite possibly the best invention known to man.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Kroil is legal in California, so it's doubtful there's anything harmful in it .................

I use "Gibbs", the best penetrant I've found in 40 years of wrenching.. Available online.

The Cap'n

[underthetire]

One other one that works great and is super cheap is ATF mixed with Acetone. And Kroil is the best off the shelf, much more expensive. We use it where I work, and they outlaw more than the state does, so I wouldn't worry about it. Just wear gloves.

[charliew]

Kroil has been used in indusrtial applications forever so it's gotta be safe enough. If you weigh 160 lbs you will need at least a 4 ft cheater on a good 1/2 breaker bar to get the nut loose. If you think the nut is hard to get off wait till you try to get the axle bearings out of the arm, unless the bearings are bad you are going to wish you had left the axle stubs alone.

[ChrisFoley]

I bought a 3/4" breaker bar after I broke my 1/2" one loosening one of those nuts. I estimated that it took 400+ lb-ft to break that nut loose.
With 2 bolts in the hub you can use a large bar against the ground to keep the hub from rotating while you stand on an extension pipe over the breaker bar to start loosening the nut.

[charliew]

There is a tool that sells for bugs that bolts to the brake drum or hub to hold it to losten the nut. vw and 4 bolt 914's are the same.

[draganc]

Victory - I have conquered the castle nut!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I sprayed the nut sparingly with PB blast for the last 24 hours and it took only 4-5 zaps with a impact wrench and the nut came just off.

These are the little excitements that keep me working on my old cars.

Next question: What kind of anti-seize product are you using to avoid the same hassle 5-10 years later?

@ racer chris, yeap, that's what I did (2 bolts in the hub and a large bar against the ground). now that I have a brand new kick ass engine and some cool pipes in my garage I can't be stopped working on my car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

PS: My final words about MSDS and the choice of product. Yes Kroil is available in CA and can be ordered via the internet – that’s why I add their link in one of my posts. I didn’t want to promote one over the other products. Just a few words of caution to my fellow 914 community. If you read and compare the MSDS of PB blast and Kroil, Kroil appears to be more toxic then PB Blast – this doesn’t mean that PB Blast is harmless, just less harmful then Kroil.

[realred914]

Victory - I have conquered the castle nut!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I sprayed the nut sparingly with PB blast for the last 24 hours and it took only 4-5 zaps with a impact wrench and the nut came just off.

These are the little excitements that keep me working on my old cars.

Next question: What kind of anti-seize product are you using to avoid the same hassle 5-10 years later?

@ racer chris, yeap, that's what I did (2 bolts in the hub and a large bar against the ground). now that I have a brand new kick ass engine and some cool pipes in my garage I can't be stopped working on my car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

PS: My final words about MSDS and the choice of product. Yes Kroil is available in CA and can be ordered via the internet – that’s why I add their link in one of my posts. I didn’t want to promote one over the other products. Just a few words of caution to my fellow 914 community. If you read and compare the MSDS of PB blast and Kroil, Kroil appears to be more toxic then PB Blast – this doesn’t mean that PB Blast is harmless, just less harmful then Kroil.

That silver antiseeze stuff in teh tube or bottle would work Made by permatex i believe is the one I use. dont like the dry stick version, hard to apply. squeeze tube is second best and the bottle with brush is the coolest. but it is all good stuff. works years and year latter, even on hot exhaust stuff be sure to use copius amounts.

PS dont eat the antiseize, it is not good for you, I dont know of a safer version.

[draganc]

"...PS dont eat the antiseize, it is not good for you, I dont know of a safer version...."

lol.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)