Big Bore Parts ID - Need Help Options

[Sailor]

I have an older 2.5L four that I have partially diassembled in order to identify the major internal components. The PO had the motor build in the early 90's by a well respected shop in Auburn, WA. Unfortunely he could not remember all the spec's and parts that were used and the shop no longer has records from that time period. I'm thinking of selling this motor and am curious as to the quality/value of the parts. So here is what I think I know:

103 mm bore, cast iron cylinders, KB pistons,
75mm stroke (approx measure),
heads have been modified with larger valves, 48mm intake, 37mm exhaust (approx measure), dual Weber 40 IDFs, 009 distibutor

I am looking for help on identifying the rods, crank, and cam. Is there a way to do it without splitting the case?

Thanks

[Mark Henry]

Rods and crank is no way unless you take it down to the shortblock (heads and cylinders off). With just one head off you can measure the stroke.

Cam you can pull the pump and there should be a number stamped on the cam right around the pump drive. My guess is it will be a eurorace or scat cam.
Post the number and I can find it for you.

[Sailor]

Rods and crank is no way unless you take it down to the shortblock (heads and cylinders off). With just one head off you can measure the stroke.

Cam you can pull the pump and there should be a number stamped on the cam right around the pump drive. My guess is it will be a eurorace or scat cam.
Post the number and I can find it for you.

I have one head and cylinder off as well as the oil pump. There are no markings on the cam near the pump drive. There is something stamped on the cam between the cylinder 2 and 4 lobes, however I cannot read it until I get the piston off. This has posed a problem in that I cannot see how to remove the wrist pin retainers. There are no tabs for the pliers, only slight indentations in the piston where it looks like one could pry out the retainer with a dental pick. Any suggestions? I do not want to do damage.

[ME733]

........MY opinion is....the engine, will have MORE value if the prospective buyer can see the , used, parts and see for themselves they are still useable./ good...The engine as it is now, partially disassembled, has little value due to all the unknowns....The camshaft and lifters have no value as they would be replaced with new anyway.(as they will have the most wear). carefully Disassembled, cleaned up. oiled and properly boxed and you could have some value in the engine and components.........just my opinion.

[Mark Henry]

The numbers on the cam between the lobe will have no use unless it's a stock VW cam. If the cam gear is on with rivits then it's a stock cam. Check the lifters to see if it has circlips on the inside, if they do then from that era they would be hydraulic and basically worthless.

The piston circlips are spiral-loc, dig an end out, grab it with needle nose pliers and turn them out like a cork screw. Don't stretch them much, but really they are meant to be a one time use only clip. You can still get new clips.

[nsr-jamie]

Could it be one of those Fat Performance kits that were popular around 15 years ago....

I have a big bore engine like yourself with the 103mm pistons and stock stroke but with the big valves 48 x 38 I believe.....I would like to do a rebuild next year or so on it but not sure if parts are even available, the guy who built my engine 12 years ago is long gone and not sure where he got the parts...but I have a feeling it might be Fat Performance......

[Sailor]

The numbers on the cam between the lobe will have no use unless it's a stock VW cam. If the cam gear is on with rivits then it's a stock cam. Check the lifters to see if it has circlips on the inside, if they do then from that era they would be hydraulic and basically worthless.

The cam gear is bolted on and the lifters are solid. Got the pistons and cylinders off one side and was able to pull some info off the cam and crank. Between the 1 and 3 lobes there is OWC and EP93, between the 1-3 intake lobe and the bearing is D1 and C1, and between the 2-4 lobes is 5. Hope this gives some clue as to what it is.

The crankshaft has B 10 VW (symbol) and DEW (with a box around the E) cast into it and 75.RAB.G stamped into it. I'm guessing the later indicates a 75mm stoke.

The rods have no visible markings, the bolts are welded to the caps and secured with 12 point nuts. See photos.

Thanks for the help.

[Sailor]

........MY opinion is....the engine, will have MORE value if the prospective buyer can see the , used, parts and see for themselves they are still useable./ good...The engine as it is now, partially disassembled, has little value due to all the unknowns....The camshaft and lifters have no value as they would be replaced with new anyway.(as they will have the most wear). carefully Disassembled, cleaned up. oiled and properly boxed and you could have some value in the engine and components.........just my opinion.

Thanks, this is the way I'm currently leaning. Would like to be able to represent the motor/parts for what they are.

[sean_v8_914]

look like balanced and lightened 2.0 rods
more pics please...

[Mark Henry]

I bet that 75.rab.g means 75 MM VW rabbit rods. I think they're to skinny for 2.0 rods

[Sailor]

More connecting rod pictures - are these Chevy I-beams?

[Mark Henry]

Pull the rods off and measure the journal size. Chevy rods bolt from underneath, but who knows how and what the mods are.
PM member type4unleashed he's fooled around with a bunch of different rod combo's.