Relay boards, are they all the same? |
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Relay boards, are they all the same? |
Tom |
Nov 1 2010, 02:25 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Looking to get a used relay board for some testing and repair/renovation. Any reason that any one would work on any car?
I have been thinking that a good place for the hot-no start syndrome is the rivited contacts to trace connections in the relay board. Maybe a good cleaning and then soldering these higher current contacts would make the relay board better.? I think I have read on here that they are all the same, but I'm not sure. What do you think or know? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Thanks, Tom |
type47 |
Nov 1 2010, 02:33 PM
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#2
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Viermeister Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Only difference I know is between -4 and -6 boards. -6 boards are rare enough that you probably won't see any for sale.
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jmmotorsports |
Nov 1 2010, 02:35 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 308 Joined: 15-August 06 From: Kelso,Wa. Member No.: 6,658 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Tom, I have several from 70 to 76 including a new OEM one from Porsche. The only difference I can see is the newer ones don't have the threaded rod to hold the cover on. Every thing else looks the same.
Jerry |
underthetire |
Nov 1 2010, 02:58 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Just broke out all the tar on the bottom of mine yesterday. Think it would be super hard to solder unless you could do some kind of acid etch first.
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Drums66 |
Nov 1 2010, 04:12 PM
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#5
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914 Rudiments Group: Members Posts: 5,321 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Coronado,Cali Member No.: 151 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Only difference I know is between -4 and -6 boards. -6 boards are rare enough that you probably won't see any for sale. I thinn so!.......maybe early & late?(also) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) |
markb |
Nov 1 2010, 05:06 PM
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#6
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914less :( Group: Members Posts: 5,449 Joined: 22-January 03 From: Nipomo, CA Member No.: 180 Region Association: Central California |
-6 boards are rare enough that you probably won't see any for sale. Oh, I wouldn't exactly say that...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
carr914 |
Nov 1 2010, 05:23 PM
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#7
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Racer from Birth Group: Members Posts: 118,992 Joined: 2-February 04 From: Tampa,FL Member No.: 1,623 Region Association: South East States |
I've got a buy one get one free in the Classifieds for the -4 Variety
And I've got an NOS -6 Board T.C. |
Tom |
Nov 2 2010, 06:52 AM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Thanks for the replys. I have one coming to see what can be done. I'll post results sometime later. I know how difficult these can be to solder. I soldered my fuse holder on the top due to high resistance and I had to wire brush and alcohol scrub it pretty good to get good flow with the solder. Fixed the connection, tho'.
Tom |
Joe Owensby |
Nov 3 2010, 07:44 PM
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#9
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JoeO Group: Members Posts: 527 Joined: 7-January 06 From: Spartanburg, SC Member No.: 5,385 Region Association: South East States |
Clean the bottom of the board very well, removing all the gunk. Then use a dremmel tool with wire brush or burr tool to thoroughly clean both the copper trace and the connection that goes to the top. Then, it will solder very easily. Has to be shiny for the solder to stick. Finally, apply a coating to protect the traces again. You can buy commercial potting compount, I think 3M sells this among others. I have read that other people use Silicon seal or other stuff. JoeO
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underthetire |
Nov 4 2010, 08:18 AM
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#10
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Actually, no it really won't solder easy. Problem is the oil from the tar gets under the rivet heads. Thats why I suggested a mild acid etch.
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Tom |
Nov 4 2010, 11:04 AM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Guys, thanks for the replys. This WILL be a learning experience to see what works and what doesn't. Still waiting for my test board to arrive. I'll post results when I have them.
Tom |
DJKnut |
Nov 4 2010, 11:47 AM
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#12
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 11 Joined: 21-August 10 From: Bellingham, Washington Member No.: 12,085 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Acid and electronics are a really BAD combination!!! It tends to keep working, corroding everywhere! If you do etch it, then neutralize the acid with a soda dip, then wash it real well with detergent to remove all the foreign stuff. Afterwords (let dry for a couple of days..), I highly recommend spraying it down (both sides..) with LPS-3 which is a water displacer and corrosion inhibiter... It has kept my saltwater boat's electrical equipment trouble free for many years, works great on all the bulb sockets too!! Cheers, Dave
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Tom |
Nov 4 2010, 05:41 PM
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#13
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
I will be using rosin core solder for electronics. It won't continue to corrode after use, however, after working on PC board repair in the shipyard, I learned it is always good to clean all soldered areas well before use.
THE KEY to successful soldering is cleanliness! Isopropyl alcohol is a very good cleaning prep for soldering when used with a small stiff bristle brush. Sometimes I have used a pencil eraser to clean difficult areas, then alcohol wash before soldering. If you are working with extremely sensitive electronics, then a cycled bath with certain chemicals would be necessary to ensure no " sneak circuits "have formed. This would be followed by warm air drying for several hours. Then testing. I don't think we would have to go to those lengths for the relay boards. Tom |
swl |
Nov 5 2010, 03:33 PM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,409 Joined: 7-August 05 From: Kingston,On,Canada Member No.: 4,550 Region Association: Canada |
Tom it should be easy to locate the point of resistance with a multimeter. I can offer suggestions if you feel like playing detective.
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Tom |
Nov 6 2010, 10:13 AM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Steve,
Sent you a PM. Ha, I joined this club two weeks after you. Tom |
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