Clutch Tube Repair-Meatball style, Daily driver needs a CT fix w/o welding Options

[wgwhitney2]

Help!
I had thought the clutch cable had gone when the pedal went to the floor board, but nooooo. Upon inspection, the weld on the rear of the clutch tube has let go! This is on my 1973 1.7L with 252,000 miles on her. I have read the two articles in the Lapuwali classic thread, and those levels of repair are just too involved for me at this time.

Anyone have a successful recipe to get the system working smoothly, if not correctly repaired? The car is in what I call a "ready to be restored" state. I have to drive it now as transport, so taking it off the road for an extended time is not an option. Removing gas tanks, dropping engines, blowing out fuel lines...nope.

I think the front and middle welds may be ok. The whole tube now flexes (rather than free floats) when I put the clutch pedal in, rubbing up against the shifter linkage.

What is this "u-bolt" repair method mentioned in the Classics thread? What type of u-bolt, and where and how are they installed? Would rigging up some fender washer+spacer tube+JBweld monstrosity to take the pressure off the rear tube work? I'm thinking transferring the pressure onto the firewall, and totally off the tube body like it is now.

So, hold your nose and suggest an ugly, but effective, fix I can do on my back, on the garage floor, in the cold, with oil and grease everywhere. I promise I will fix it right when I restore my baby to show room glory some of these days.

Bill

[Eric_Shea]

http://mapq.st/eH1Fwr

That would be my recommendation. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Bartlett 914]

Find a big thick washer. Fit it over the tube. It will not fit against the firewall. It will need to be modified. Cut, file the washer to fit over the tune and also fit against the firewall. Clean the area and take it to someone with a welder and have it welded in place. Since you did all the dirty work and the welder has a simple task, the cost should be reasonable (i.e. cheap). Use a rattle can paint to keep it from rusting.

[wgwhitney2]

http://mapq.st/eH1Fwr

That would be my recommendation. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Thanks, Eric.

[Mike Bellis]

Take it to Original Customs in Napa. McMark will fix you up cheap.

[wgwhitney2]

Find a big thick washer. Fit it over the tube. It will not fit against the firewall. It will need to be modified. Cut, file the washer to fit over the tune and also fit against the firewall. Clean the area and take it to someone with a welder and have it welded in place. Since you did all the dirty work and the welder has a simple task, the cost should be reasonable (i.e. cheap). Use a rattle can paint to keep it from rusting.

Good advice, and I appreciate it. I think I will go with the "cold" weld first, and see what happens. Welding in and around the fuel lines doesn't appeal to me. I saw the Fender washer modifications made, and will incorporate those ideas. I will let you know how it turns out.

[Eric_Shea]

take it to someone with a welder and have it welded in place

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That was my point. Call McMark and don't worry about getting on your back in the cold. I'm sure he's done this before and can have you fixed properly and back on the road in no time.

[wgwhitney2]

Take it to Original Customs in Napa. McMark will fix you up cheap.

I appreciate that recommendation. I am thinking on getting over there for the swap meet in May. I will get a hold of him to see what can/should be done. Thanks again!

[Bartlett 914]

Find a big thick washer. Fit it over the tube. It will not fit against the firewall. It will need to be modified. Cut, file the washer to fit over the tune and also fit against the firewall. Clean the area and take it to someone with a welder and have it welded in place. Since you did all the dirty work and the welder has a simple task, the cost should be reasonable (i.e. cheap). Use a rattle can paint to keep it from rusting.

Good advice, and I appreciate it. I think I will go with the "cold" weld first, and see what happens. Welding in and around the fuel lines doesn't appeal to me. I saw the Fender washer modifications made, and will incorporate those ideas. I will let you know how it turns out.

Forget the glue! you will just make a proper repair more difficult

[Eric_Shea]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) scrape up som Jackson's and do it right. It's a Porsche not a Yugo. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

WE repair them all of the time here. The rear is the last part of the tube assembly to rip loose. You must have been dealing with a ripped tube in the front for awhile. It is necessary to reweld by cutting a door in front of the shifter and placing the tube in the proper position before rewelding and repairing the firewall in the rear. Also sometimes it is ripped in the middle and that too needs a door opened. This is the only way to properly repair the tube.
The "Tech Tips 700" book by Dr. 914 has a good repair procedure along with a diagram.

Help!
I had thought the clutch cable had gone when the pedal went to the floor board, but nooooo. Upon inspection, the weld on the rear of the clutch tube has let go! This is on my 1973 1.7L with 252,000 miles on her. I have read the two articles in the Lapuwali classic thread, and those levels of repair are just too involved for me at this time.

Anyone have a successful recipe to get the system working smoothly, if not correctly repaired? The car is in what I call a "ready to be restored" state. I have to drive it now as transport, so taking it off the road for an extended time is not an option. Removing gas tanks, dropping engines, blowing out fuel lines...nope.

I think the front and middle welds may be ok. The whole tube now flexes (rather than free floats) when I put the clutch pedal in, rubbing up against the shifter linkage.

What is this "u-bolt" repair method mentioned in the Classics thread? What type of u-bolt, and where and how are they installed? Would rigging up some fender washer+spacer tube+JBweld monstrosity to take the pressure off the rear tube work? I'm thinking transferring the pressure onto the firewall, and totally off the tube body like it is now.

So, hold your nose and suggest an ugly, but effective, fix I can do on my back, on the garage floor, in the cold, with oil and grease everywhere. I promise I will fix it right when I restore my baby to show room glory some of these days.

Bill

[r_towle]

large washer customized to fit.
Compression fitting (plumbing isle) put over the tube to hold the washer in place...
Jbweld for good measure.

Rich

[r_towle]

large amounts of duct tape properly applied may get you through a few months...
Put a boat lod of it on both sides of the firewall...then the tube cant go back and forth.

Rich

[wgwhitney2]

take it to someone with a welder and have it welded in place

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That was my point. Call McMark and don't worry about getting on your back in the cold. I'm sure he's done this before and can have you fixed properly and back on the road in no time.

Wow. Just checked out Mark's business on google and yelp. No questions, he is the man. My problem is (no surprises here) no cash to engage the likes of Original Customs right now.

[r_towle]

even better.
Remove the middle seat pad.
Remove the cover.
Hold the tube when you shift...

You could probably setup a pair of vice grips through the inner tunnel opening to hold it in place.

Rich

[Andyrew]

The U bolt repair works to get you on the road. Put simply the U bolt is just what is is called, a double threaded bolt in the shape of a U that you would put around the clutch tube and bolt down through the floorpan to secure the clutch tube in place. It involves drilling through the floorpan and about 15 bucks in material. But it is only a temp fix. Welding it up is the only true fix.

[Millerwelds]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...;hl=clutch+tube

Ubolts could be used instead of wire for a more secure hold. Not a permanent fix but will keep you going.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

U bolts are very very bad and will pinch the tube rendering it usless and causing then a MAJOR repair. NO U BOLTS says the Dr.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...;hl=clutch+tube

Ubolts could be used instead of wire for a more secure hold. Not a permanent fix but will keep you going.

[Tom_T]

Back in the late 70's when mine was a DD, my mechanic did the front & rear tube fixes as an on-the-fly repair without welding, which held up for about 50k mi. of not too gentle DD use.

IIRC this failure was so common on both 914s & 911s/912s, that the screw-in rear wall clutch tube repair plate below was sold by Porsche for the fix, so somebody may have access to one/some on here, or there may be a similar piece available at hardware suppliers (see 1st pic below). The screw-tie in the front of the tube is common & easy to get, just be careful when cutting the slots in the tunnel.

Similarly to you, I will be doing a proper welded repair on it in my strip-to-shell resto that I'm doing now, but this should get you by for now - then go to McMark in Napa for a proper welded rear wall & front/middle tube reinforcements etc. when you are more "bucks-up".

This should keep you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) until then! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Rear Wall Clutch Tube Repair/Reinforcement Plate -


Screw-clamp Hose Tie to Repair Clutch Tube Front -

BTW - this should work better & cleaner than the aircraft wire method above, due to the wider/flat surface to hold the front of the tube, but will require accessing the inside of the tunnel with a ratcheting 90-degree screwdriver & probably skinned knuckles, unless you don't mind the screw-clamp being outside the tunnel at your feet (carpet would hide it) as a temp fix. Note that you'll have to have the slots you cut for the tie to be rewelded shut by McMark as an extra step not required if he just did the reweld fix from the start.

Hope this helps!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[jd74914]

They'll (the u-bolts) work fine until you have the ability to weld; just don't over tighten everything.