Head studs stuck! Need help removing. Options

[tornik550]

Note- yes, I realize this has been covered in previous posts however I am looking for additional info.

I recently acquired several new cases for my rebuild. I am trying to remove the head studs. I have an EC case, a EA case and a bus case modified for a 914. I was able to remove the studs on the EC case without major problems however the case has some issues. I do not plan on using the bus case. The EA case seems the best but I can only get 1/2 of the studs out.

I have tried large amounts of penetrating oil over the past few days. I have tried to heat the CASE with a propane torch for about 2 minutes. I am double nutting the stud. I have tried to grip the base of the stud with vise grips however I cannot get the vise tight enough so it doesn't spin (due to some corrosion). I am using a 36 inch wrench so I get very good leverage.

Any ideas? I can put a bit more muscle into removing the studs however I am scared that I will break the stud since it already seems to twist quite a bit. Should I heat the case longer? I have broken a head studs on a EC case in the past and it is not fun trying to remove it (I was actually able to drill the stud out but not fun).

[bcheney]

Heat and a proper stud removal tool from (Snap on or Northern Tool) that grips the stud correctly is the way to go. Click this link:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/pro...85363_200385363

If the stud shears off...you can always take the case to a good machine shop and they can remove and repair damaged threads.

[hcdmueller]

I double nutted the studs and used an impact wrench. I still had one that wouldn't come out. I heated the hell out of the case with a propane torch and eventually it broke loose.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Two minutes with the propane torch doesn't even qualify as "heat". More time, my boy. More time.

The Cap'n

[tornik550]

Two minutes with the propane torch doesn't even qualify as "heat". More time, my boy. More time.

The Cap'n

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Thats exactly what I was hoping someone would say!!!!

[sean_v8_914]

use a stop watch or the radio as a guide for time. one complete song at least. that AL soaks up alot of heat

[KaptKaos]

50/50 Acetone/ATF makes a very good penetrant.

[cary]

Switch to MAPP gas. The yellow tank is quite a bit hotter.
Be patient, it will come. PB Blaster and MAPP gas will get it done.

[Jake Raby]

The trick is grippin g at the base of the stud.. Othrwise the stud has too much torsion...

We remove them with double nuts and an impact in most situations..

[tornik550]

I just came in from working on the head studs. I still can't get the bastards off. I heated the case for about 10 minutes. The case was super hot- still wouldn't budge. I am going to try double nutting with an impact wrench tomorrow. If not, I will buy some MAPP gas.

I am having a hard time finding a way to tightly grip the base of the stud to reduce the torsion. Vise grips are working out too well for me.

I guess my next question should be- do I even need to remove all of the studs? The reason that I was going to remove them was to check for collapsed registers. Is it possible to check for collapsed registers with 3 out of 4 studs per cylinders removed? The case is a 1.7l case with 20k original miles.

Also are all t4 studs the same regardless of the engine? (with the exception of EMW and ARP studs). Can I interchange studs from one T4 engine to another?

[McMark]

Use LARGE vice grips.
Get them as tight as absolutely possible, as close to the case as possible.
Double nut the stud.
Apply heat.
Apply pressure to the vice grips and a socket wrench at the same time.

Also, try tightening the studs before loosening. If you can get them to turn even a little bit in either direction, they will gradually free up.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Curved jaw channel-locs. They tighten as you put force on 'em. The Cap'n

[ArtechnikA]

Heat and a proper stud removal tool from (Snap on or Northern Tool) that grips the stud correctly is the way to go. Click this link:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/pro...85363_200385363

Those are good especially if you have hopes of re-using the stud. But they do grip at the long end. They also require the threads be decent.

There is also this, for broken studs or where you have issues with the torsion:
Cam and Wedge stud removal tool

[Matt Romanowski]

Or use a pipe wrench.

[hcdmueller]

Or use a pipe wrench.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[Jake Raby]

Clamp 3 large pairs of vice grips at the base and try that all at once..

If the impact doesn't do it, saw the stud off 1" above the case and tig weld a nut onto it, then impact that. The torsion is killing your effort.

[VaccaRabite]

MAPP heat the case. A lot. Quench the stud with a wet rag ad turn it out ASAP using the vise grips / pipe wrench at the base of the stud as mentioned above. Thats how my machinist got the stud out that was tripping me up. He used Oxy/Acc for heat, not MAPP, but I think both would work.

Zach

[ArtechnikA]

...He used Oxy/Acc for heat, not MAPP, but I think both would work.

I just had one hell of a time getting 4 10mm studs out of the B-pipe flanges on the Titan so I could install a new exhaust. They were STUCK. No hope of getting the nuts off - cut them off with a rotary cutoff disk. Then I still had to get the steel studs out of the steel flanges.

Was all prepared to drill the stubs out - picked up the cute-but-pricey left-handed cobalt bits and everything. Decided to give heat one more try.

The BernzOMatic people now have an update on the 'home version' bottled-oxygen kit that was once oxy-propane (and solid-fuel oxygen generator like airliners before that...). So now they have a torch calibrated for propylene (formerly called MAPP) and an uprated oxygen regulator that's actually pretty decent.

It was shelf-tagged at a little under $60 at the Lowes but it rang up at about $15. I had the clerk recheck and even type in the SKU to make sure it wasn't just scanning the UPC on the propylene tank. $15. I thanked her, said 'have a great day' and left...

The key with the steel stud in the steel flange was to heat the flange and direct it away from the stud, making the hole bigger, but not the stud.

I got 20 minutes of oxygen from each oxygen bottle - enough to do the two frozen studs on each side - 10 minutes per stud, 40 for all 4.

But use some caution - I don't think you can actually ignite the case heating it in the stud area but I suspect the alloy will go from solid-looking to localised puddle in a flash right around the eutectic point...

I had the flanges glowing red and the studs still wouldn't budge - the MAPP torch makes a lot of heat but I couldn't direct it away from the studs. The smaller but hotter oxy/MAPP pulled it off.

[r_towle]

bring the case to the same machine shop you are bringing it to that will be checking the case and doing your machining...
Have them take the studs out.

Rich

[sean_v8_914]

mc said a good one. try a little tightening. then loosen if it moves even a little bit.
use more creative cus word combinations..."its all in the combo"...and hand gestures