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> gas in oil?
ruddyboys
post Jun 3 2004, 10:31 AM
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Why am I getting gas in my oil? This really pisses me off, I just changed the oil and it has what seems a lot of gass, oil very diluted.
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Mueller
post Jun 3 2004, 10:33 AM
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leaking injector(s)???
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tdgray
post Jun 3 2004, 10:55 AM
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Thank God Nemo is not here to see this
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) What he said.

'bout the only way with these cars i would guess.
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ruddyboys
post Jun 3 2004, 10:56 AM
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Sorry forgot to say dual 40IDFs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/splat.gif)
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tracks914
post Jun 3 2004, 10:57 AM
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What colour are your spark plugs? Is your cold start valve coming off when it should? Just another source of gas.
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Levi
post Jun 3 2004, 11:00 AM
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leaking dual 40IDFs ?
Thats the only way the gas can get in the crankcase...right?
Gas in the oil will wash all the parts that you don't want washed, bearings, cyl walls, etc.... Don't run it until you fix the problem.
Good luck.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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joea9146
post Jun 3 2004, 11:20 AM
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Are you running a low pressure fuel pump ? Pressure to the carbs should only be 3 - 3 1/2 Lbs.
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lapuwali
post Jun 3 2004, 11:22 AM
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Not another one!
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Pop the air filters off, and see if fuel is dripping out of the accelerator pump nozzles. If so, it's leaking into the engine past an open valve, past the rings, and into the sump. Rebuild the carbs, paying extra attention to the screws holding down the nozzles. The other option is a leaky float or needle valve causing the bowl to overflow, although that usually makes an external leak.

btw, I just discovered there are "old" and "new" IDFs. The "old" IDFs have roller-tipped accelerator pump levers (the bit under the carb that is pushed by the pump cam), and take a different pump diagphram than the "new" IDFs, which have a different lever (no roller). They are not interchangable, and if you try to use the "new" diagphrams in the "old" carb, you'll end up with no accelerator pump. The lever will be very loose when everything is assembled.

The only place I know of that differentiates between old and new rebuild kits is CB Performance. Most places seem to send you new kits.
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Elliot_Cannon
post Jun 3 2004, 12:48 PM
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I've seen this happen before. Not on a 914 but the result is the same. The cause was a stuck carb. float or such that raw fuel was running down into the the oil pan. It sounds like a carb overhaul is needed. I agree... no not run this engine till the carb issue is dealt with or everytime you start up you will be operating with parts in engine that have been washed clean by the gas in the oil.
Cheers, Elliot
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pbanders
post Jun 3 2004, 01:43 PM
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What are you doing for crankcase ventilation? If you have no ventilation, where does blow-by go?
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ruddyboys
post Jun 4 2004, 10:02 AM
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I rebuilt these carbs about a nmonthe ago, I just adjusted the floats (had gas pouring out the top). I am running extremely rich, After about 10 minutes at idle the car dies and refiuses to start untill I pull the plugs and clean them (heavy black soot, the exhaust is the same blowing out black soot), my jets are Main 115, Idle 50 not sure the air. I know I probably have to go down one jet size, but which one (I only had it idling to cause the soot build-up) afraid to take it out for a drive.
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bondo
post Jun 4 2004, 10:23 AM
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Practicing my perpendicular parking
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I don't know anything about your particular carbs, but I think I know enough about carbs in general to try and help. I don't think a jet size or two too rich would cause that big of a problem, something else myst be wrong. If those carbs have a power valve diaphragm, it may be ruptured or leaking. It's also possible that the rebuild kit or the data you used to adjust the floats was incorrect for the carbs. Did you have to adjust the floats by any large margin? (They shouldn't have been very far off if at all)

Good Luck,
--Royce
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lapuwali
post Jun 4 2004, 10:33 AM
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For 40IDFs with a choke of about 28mm, 115 mains and 50 idles are not "too rich", but are about spot on. 52 and even 55 idles won't cause the problem you mention. Airs only have an effect at high rpm (like over 4000). 200 is about the right size. Mains won't affect the idle mixture.

You still have a leak somewhere, very probably in the accelerator pump circuit. It's easy to install the pump diagphram incorrectly so it leaks.
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ruddyboys
post Jun 4 2004, 10:48 AM
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I guess I should pull the carbs and take them apart and check them out again. I had the adust one of the floats to stop the fuel from comming up and over flowing,it wasn't that big of an adjustment. Is there any part I should take special care looking at?
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ruddyboys
post Jun 4 2004, 11:06 AM
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I just remembered I have the older webers and I used the newer kit, and I did piut in the older acc. pump diafragm (sp). I noticed the the mixture screws had gass on them, could the o rings be different? why would there screws be wet with gas.
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