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> Removing the luggage rack, and more, CSOB transformation complete, for now..
ripper911
post Aug 27 2011, 12:03 PM
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This next weekend I'm planning on painting my trunk lids black, and probably applying positive side stripes.

What would be a good method for filling in the holes in the rear trunk lid where the bolts for the luggage rack now reside?
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tod914
post Aug 27 2011, 12:46 PM
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Rear lids are fairly cheap.. get one without holes?
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underthetire
post Aug 27 2011, 12:59 PM
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I agree with a replacement, but if not available, I recommend welding then glazing. A trunk lid gets flexed when opening and closing, would probably crack filler without something solid.
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SirAndy
post Aug 27 2011, 01:08 PM
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QUOTE(ripper911 @ Aug 27 2011, 11:03 AM) *
What would be a good method for filling in the holes in the rear trunk lid where the bolts for the luggage rack now reside?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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r_towle
post Aug 27 2011, 01:11 PM
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I know you are cheap, and I cant remember if welding is on the menu for you.

One option is to go to Home Depot and get the little stainless steel caps that are used for random holes in sinks....just snap those in and move on...if you ever want to put the luggage rack back on, you can.

You could also find some stainless nut certs....its a standoff threaded bung that you can bolt into the hole...again its for future luggage rack usage...and they also come with snap in plugs to keep the threads clean.

Rich
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ripper911
post Aug 27 2011, 02:23 PM
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I was considering just buying a replacement, but if I can just fill in the holes easily while the lids are off I figured that would be the way to go.

No, I don't weld, maybe JB weld...
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GeorgeRud
post Aug 27 2011, 04:18 PM
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The JB Weld will probably crack out as the sheet metal flexes.

Well nuts may not be that bad of an idea if you can't find a good lid.
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904svo
post Aug 27 2011, 04:30 PM
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Call Al, I think he has some. If not call Al ( to set up a time and place) and I can weld up the holes for you.
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ripper911
post Aug 27 2011, 06:41 PM
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QUOTE(904svo @ Aug 27 2011, 06:30 PM) *

Call Al, I think he has some. If not call Al ( to set up a time and place) and I can weld up the holes for you.

Yeah, I was going to call him to see.
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Andyrew
post Aug 27 2011, 06:43 PM
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Make friends with a welder. Filling those holes takes all of 5 minutes.. Assuming you grind the area first to metal so they have something TO weld.


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dion9146
post Aug 27 2011, 08:06 PM
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I did this a long time ago on my first 914. It was quickly becoming an autocross weapon, so I just filled them with fiberglass patches, filler and sanded smooth. Held up great for 3 years with no cracking. Not the prettiest underneath because I didn't care, but it worked fine for me at the time. i still have the lid in my spare parts pile.

I'd weld them now.

Dion
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Eric_Shea
post Aug 27 2011, 11:22 PM
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If you can't find a friend with a welder. Get a new lid. Not easy to weld because of the flex in the metal from the heat.

I remember a cool trick from the old VW days. A trim delete was a cool option back in the 70s. The way they did it to avoid flex was to form a donut of clay around the hole to absorb the heat from the weld.
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pcar916
post Aug 28 2011, 06:48 AM
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I would do one of two things. Both have mentioned above.

My choice #1 (per R_Towle) I'd plug the holes with a good looking plug. Either stainless with a seal of some sort, or color-coordinated plastic ones that are self-sealing, but need to be replaced every now and then.

Choice #2 is get another lid and hang yours up on the wall. You're likely going to have to paint a replacement anyway. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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windforfun
post Aug 28 2011, 09:28 AM
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QUOTE(pcar916 @ Aug 28 2011, 05:48 AM) *

I would do one of two things. Both have mentioned above.

My choice #1 (per R_Towle) I'd plug the holes with a good looking plug. Either stainless with a seal of some sort, or color-coordinated plastic ones that are self-sealing, but need to be replaced every now and then.

Choice #2 is get another lid and hang yours up on the wall. You're likely going to have to paint a replacement anyway. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Aug 28 2011, 09:30 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) When welding holes specially in something like a trunk lid you can take a piece of copper tubing and hammer it flat. Either fasten it to the underside of the lid with cleco fasteners, sheet metal screws or clamps. The weld metal won't stick to the copper and the copper will act as a heat sink and also stiffen up the lid to reduce the possability of warping the lid. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Attached Image
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VaccaRabite
post Aug 28 2011, 11:53 AM
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I would use a magnetic clamp over Klecos so that there would not be extra holes to fill. Copper works great. I got a short length Of copper pipe from the off cut bin at Ace for pennies and cut off bits of it as needed.
Zach
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ripper911
post Sep 2 2011, 05:07 PM
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I've started the painting process.

Went and bought a rear lid from Al, but it has holes near the rear of it, so I got a spoiler too.
Bought sidestripes, engine grill lettering, and the plastic rollers for the rear trunk from AA. Gut the wrong sidestripes, so I have to go back tomorrow and get the 914 size.

Pulled off the front trunk and engine lid, sanded everything and got a coat of primer on all of it today.
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saigon71
post Sep 2 2011, 05:14 PM
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Thanks for all the info here gents...I too, have a luggage rack that needs to go!
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bigkensteele
post Sep 2 2011, 05:25 PM
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QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Aug 28 2011, 07:30 AM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) When welding holes specially in something like a trunk lid you can take a piece of copper tubing and hammer it flat. Either fasten it to the underside of the lid with cleco fasteners, sheet metal screws or clamps. The weld metal won't stick to the copper and the copper will act as a heat sink and also stiffen up the lid to reduce the possability of warping the lid. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

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Eastwood sells a tool for this. Not cheap, but it won't break the bank either. Of course he has already bought a new lid, so it is moot now.

Eastwood copper welding thingee
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ripper911
post Sep 2 2011, 05:51 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

Here is the reason for doing this, a large bubble in the paint on the front.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i921.photobucket.com-11654-1315007515.1.jpg)
I call that the hood emblem

New lid
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i921.photobucket.com-11654-1315007516.2.jpg)

My dad sanding on the front lid.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i921.photobucket.com-11654-1315007516.3.jpg)

and spraying the primer.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i921.photobucket.com-11654-1315007516.4.jpg)
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