Porsche 914 featured in Classic Driver Magazine, 146.000 EUROS For a six ????????????????????????? Options

[johannes]

Here is the page they posted yesterday

http://www.classicdriver.com/fr/magazine/3900.asp?id=15621

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[biosurfer1]

I could see it if it were a NOS 6 from the factory but short of that, I think we're still a few years from seeing those kind of prices actually selling

[JeffBowlsby]

I cannot imagine anyone that would pay that kind of money for a car with so many things incorrect...(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

:drool:

[513mugsy]

That car is beyond anything the factory would of put out back in the day. Way over the top and and way to much money was spent on that teener. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) But when money is no object this is what some people prefer....

[toolguy]

Actually, while that might seem like a ridiculous price, it's in the correct ballpark for the cost of a 1500 hour restoration. . . . and 1500 hours is an accurate amount of time for a frame up, every nut and bolt job on a 914-6. . . at even the low side of $50 an hour thats $75000 in labor, and I don't know any professional shop that does Concour quality work for $50. . . more likely $85 to $135 an hour. . . and that gets you to the $150K in labor real fast

A respectable, Concour quality paint job alone is $10K-15K for down to metal and proper prep if you have a really good shop do all the work. .and thats just the outside and top side of the car. . . think about every square inch, inside and under the car down to metal . .

There is a world of difference between "restoring a car yourself as a really nice Sunday driver"{which is what you see on the street} and restoring a six to correct factory specs with the correct parts to to a professional level. .


So when you get down to a professional shop doing a full restoration, you'd also be right at their 146,000 Euro price, which is just shy for $196,00. . . Got to figure the starter car was $25K and the parts another $20k. . . an engine build is $10K, a trans $3K, . . . that's $60K and now you need 1500 hours labor and a quality paint and body job. . . . gets expensive real fast.

Yeah. . . it seems ridiculous to people that can do most the work themselves, becasue we do it for out own pleasure and enjoyment. . . . but these are the prices the "big' boys pay for their 'top quality' toys. . . remember, there are making millions doing whatever they do. . . From their perspective, the $200K is peanuts in comparison to what $$$ they make per hour. . . If you disagree, just look at what Jay Leno or Jerry Seinfeld make doing one episode of a TV show. . . . . . Do you think they spend their time doing their own restorations ?? or pay for them. .

[Gustl]

this /6 was for sale in Belgium for a long time (4 times on eBay, never sold), looking this way:



then it sold to Germany and got restored

now it's for sale since the beginning of this year, but I guess it will never sell (at this price) ...

[johannes]

At that price I would like a correct engine lid and no hood crest ... But I suppose it could be done...
I am afraid the car will sell for a max of 100.000 that is the price you pay for a restored early 911 in Europe.

[smj]

Well, it will be very interesting to hear when/if it sells and at what price, to establish a level for this type of restoration. Has anybody caught a sale of a comparably restored 914-6 recently?

[racerbvd]

When I was at Parade, I talked Jochen Bader, Manager Factory Restoration
Customer Center Classic, Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche Aktiengesellschaft he informed me that a basket-case 914-6 (like the one I'm selling (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...;#entry1589820)
are selling for 15,000 Euros, if you could find one in Germany..

There is a world of difference between "restoring a car yourself as a really nice Sunday driver"{which is what you see on the street} and restoring a six to correct factory specs with the correct parts to to a professional level. .

No sheit!! and when it comes to the bottom, it has to look as good as the top...

[Gustl]

At that price I would like a correct engine lid and no hood crest ... But I suppose it could be done...

I'd prefere the correct rear bumper as well as the correct rear valance
these things are really hard to get ... don't ask why I know ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Gustl

[toolguy]

sort of like this. . . this point was at around 1000 hours

[type47fan]

sort of like this. . . this point was at around 1000 hours

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Where are the braces for your door openings?

[toolguy]

At the risk of starting a controversy, about the door frame braces. . . I was concerned about that also in the beginning. . . So I carefully measured all the openings before lifting the chassis. . then I stretched .008 piano wire both laterally and diagonally across the body openings {side to side diagonally}. I secured the wire tightly to bolts for the seatbelts and door hinges so it was taught. . Then I lifted the chassis and watched which wires became tighter or looser. . . There was no perceptible change in any of the wires and all my pre lift measurements remained consistent. .

Also note the rotisserie has a lower steel rectangle beam tying the front to the rear, which has vertical gusset bracing. . . this turns the entire structure with the body into a rigid four sided box and helps prevent flexing also. . .

Be assured, I was very careful and measured a whole bunch of times before I felt confident there was no flex. . . I guess this is what happens on a rust free, low mile body with no prior damage. . . I expected some change but didn't measure any. . . . And the proof was in the assembled body . . . . all the panels and doors aligned with door gaps even and all edges flush. . . .

So this sort of makes me stop and think. . . the only place the frame can flex is between the door gaps. . and this is a full stripped shell. . . I guessing at around 800 pounds total and probably only around 100 pounds of that in the center floor section. . . . and what has more stress on bending the frame rails. . . ?? lifting a fully stripped chassis. . or some lively driving and throwing around a fully assembled car on a bumpy road. . . . .

So if the argument is that you must have door braces to lift a bare chassis. . you'd think then you would also must have to install a braced roll cage to have a little driving fun. . .

Plus it helped that this is an extremely low miles Southern California no rust car. . and I don't by any means suggest this can be done on other 914's without some careful planing and measurements.

[mepstein]

I think a fully stripped shell is only ~400lbs. If your not welding in new metal, your not going to permanently bend the chassis on a rust free car by hanging it on a rotisserie.

[SirAndy]

So if the argument is that you must have door braces to lift a bare chassis. .

No, that's not the argument.

The point is that *most* 914s that end up on a rotisserie will have metal work done. Once you start cutting into the body to replace rusty panels, door braces are most certainly of value.

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