Video added: Clutch cable figured out...new problem, Clutch "lever" is "floppy" Options

[billh1963]

Okay....I see why the seller sold the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I've got the clutch cable figured out but when I went to attach the cable to the clutch lever at the transmission the lever arm just flops around. There is no tension on it to release the clutch disc. I assume this means I'll be pulling the engine or transmission?

[Mike Bellis]

Pull just the tranny. Easy!

[EdwardBlume]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

You can have the transmission out in 1 hour or less. Don't forget the ground strap attaching the body above the transmission.

[billh1963]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

You can have the transmission out in 1 hour or less. Don't forget the ground strap attaching the body above the transmission.

Will do. Haynes manual says the transmission has to be pulled with the engine. Obviously, that is not the case. Anyone have a procedure or a link?

The clutch disc is very good (I hate to admit it but I have used the starter to move the car in car up trailer ramps)! I hope to reuse it.

So, what should I be looking for once I pull it? Broken lever, release bearing issues?

[Mike Bellis]

You might need a washer under the pivot ball. You may also need a spacer at the adjustment threads to take up the slack.

[914Mels]

If you look at the rear control arms, you'll see a round hole used for setting the brake caliper adjustment. Find a solid steel bar, like a pry bar that will fit inside the hole and wedge it under your heat exchangers. that will hold your engine in place. I'd guess a broken pressure plate is your problem but it should be pretty obvious once the transmission is out.

[JRust]

If you can pull your clutch lever back more than an inch when not hooked up. You need a washer behind the ball pivot as Mike said. Just be careful how big a washer you use. A thin washer makes a pretty big difference. So put one on & test the arm to see the difference it makes. You do want some movement of the clutch fork before it engages the clutch. If not your clutch may stay engaged all the time. When you release your clutch it should disengage completely.

Once you have your clutch fork where it should be. Hook up your clutch cable. It's not uncommon to need a spacer as the cables tend to run long more than short. If you have to tighten your nut alot. Put a spacer between the nut & the little insert.

Oh & pulling your tranny with the motor in the car is easy. It helps to loosen your motor a bit. Your motor need to pitch down just a bit. You also need to support the back of the motor when the tranny is off.

[billh1963]

I guess I should clarify...the clutch lever travels its whole range of movement with no resistance. it simply "flops' back and forth from the front to the back.....

[billh1963]

Video below...just click on it...

http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/jj25/bi...rrent=001-1.mp4

[messix]

clutch fork not on throw out bearin or no throw out bearing.

pull tranny'

best to have 2 people, top starter bolt has nut on top of engine that needs to be held with wrench. the rest get done from bottom.

don't take nuts of long bolts on tranny mount. undo 4 short bolts/nuts at body side/top on tranny mounts [easier to install that way].

shifter rod gets dissconected by removing set scew[cone screw] at side of tranny under plastic cover.

the half shafts are not allen head [they are tripple star i think could be wrong] and easly strip out using allen head.

[billh1963]

clutch fork not on throw out bearin or no throw out bearing.

pull tranny'

best to have 2 people, top starter bolt has nut on top of engine that needs to be held with wrench. the rest get done from bottom.

don't take nuts of long bolts on tranny mount. undo 4 short bolts/nuts at body side/top on tranny mounts [easier to install that way].

shifter rod gets dissconected by removing set scew[cone screw] at side of tranny under plastic cover.

the half shafts are not allen head [they are tripple star i think could be wrong] and easly strip out using allen head.

I think I'm going to pull the transmission tomorrow if it's not too cold (can't wait to start building my garage). It looks like there aren't that many bolts. The question I have is, does the engine have to be supported? I'm not sure what to expect when I pull the tranny. A couple of you have mentioned supporting the engine. Does it need to be supported before I seperate the engine from the transmission?

[Steve]

clutch fork not on throw out bearin or no throw out bearing.

pull tranny'

best to have 2 people, top starter bolt has nut on top of engine that needs to be held with wrench. the rest get done from bottom.

don't take nuts of long bolts on tranny mount. undo 4 short bolts/nuts at body side/top on tranny mounts [easier to install that way].

shifter rod gets dissconected by removing set scew[cone screw] at side of tranny under plastic cover.

the half shafts are not allen head [they are tripple star i think could be wrong] and easly strip out using allen head.

I think I'm going to pull the transmission tomorrow if it's not too cold (can't wait to start building my garage). It looks like there aren't that many bolts. The question I have is, does the engine have to be supported? I'm not sure what to expect when I pull the tranny. A couple of you have mentioned supporting the engine. Does it need to be supported before I seperate the engine from the transmission?

The engine needs to be supported on the rear of the motor. Use something secure like a jackstand. If everything is removed from the tranny you should be able to just slide it back and down.

[dangrouche]

here's the Pelican Parts tech article on the topic of clutch replacment.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ch_replace1.htm