Big Day, Starting to look like an engine Options

[DNHunt]

We're starting to get this thing buttoned up. I cut the pushrods today so we finished the valve train adjusted the valves to 0.0 lash (that's what Jake wants), started putting on tin and got the valve covers on.

Here's Gerry putting in one of the oil relief pistons

[DNHunt]

Check this out. It really looks like an engine

[Porsche Rescue]

Ok Dave, I'll bite, what does "cut the push rods" mean?

[DNHunt]

Daddy's got a brand new toy. It really does go round and round. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/monkeydance.gif)

Dave (IMG:style_emoticons/default/monkeydance.gif)

[DNHunt]

Jim

After a weekend of trying different thickness of shims under thr rockers and an adjustable pushrod we had to decide on a shim and a pushrod length that aligns the rockers and valve stems the best. Lots and lots of trial and error. Today, I cut the pushrods to what I think is the best length and now there is no turning back unless I buy a new set of pushrods. I'm glad to have it behind me.

Dave

[Porsche Rescue]

Sounds way beyond my skill level. But then dental tools and machine tools aren't all that different. You probably just got out a good burr and started grinding away. That engine sure looks magnificent. Bet your boy is proud, and deservedly so.

[mightyohm]

How do you cut those cut-to-length pushrods anyway? Band saw? How do you ensure the cut is straight? Once you're done do you just push the end on?

[Jake Raby]

In the old days we did them with a hacksaw! Then trued them on a grinder. These days I use a pneumatic tool used for custom arrows (archery of course) the pushrois exactly the sme OD as an arrow and it works great for accurate cuts that are true and exacting on every pushrod. The tools sets once and thats it! works well. When its all done the tip just hammers in place with an old lifter as a tool.

This is really not that hard, especially when I hold your hand. Dave needed very little hand holding! He needed less than any person I have ever sold a kit to and has done a magnificent job! Better than most professionals.

Dave does say that I need to charge more for sure- He saw what it takes to build a MassIVe Type IV! I average 80 hours in each engine start to finish....

Hey Dave, next time you need to go BIGGGGG up to about a 2739 or so! Its good for 240 ponies and the last one took me 200 hours of labor! I was ready to shoot myself.

[DNHunt]

Jeff

I didn't have access to an arrow cutter so I built a jig for my sliding chop saw and used a metal cutting blade. I deburred the outside of the cut with some 220 grit wet dry and used the deburring tool on a tubing cutter to deburr the inside. I used an old lifter and a ball peen hammer to drive the end on.

A neat trick anytime you want to make sure that 3 or more things are equal length. Butt them up perpendicular to a known flat surface then press a known flat surface against the free ends. Try sliding the pieces, you'll find some short ones. Then you can nibble the long ones. Repeat, repeat, repeat until frustrated. I was able to get all 8 within 0.005". Close enough.

Most of the info a person needs is on the net. Sometimes it's hard to separate the good info from the bad but, I found that usually there is a thread that hits home. Jake's video helps too. we have a small TV with VCR set up in the garage so we can play the parts we're working on. That tape gonna be worn out soon.

Jake

Thanks for the kind words. I still think what I said yesterday is true, I'm anal. It comes from trying to get project in dental school signed off. It took me 21 tries 1 time to get a crown signed off. That still pisses me off and it's been 30 years.

I did say he should charge more. I don't know what kind of margin is built into the parts but I can say I don't believe that he charges enough for assembly labor judging from what he quoted me. Even with a lot of experience and organization, there has to be a lot of time involved and there is dyno time and powder coating included. I had a blast but I'wouldn't have done it if it wasn't for the experience with my son. The reason I would let Jake assemble is because I still have an unknown here. If it busts when I fire it up it's on me. If Jake breaks one of his on the dyno Jake fixes it and the customer gets a good engine.

That's OK with me, I know what I bought. If it does blow Gerry and I will be very disappointed. The lesson learned and experiences for both of us will be worth a bunch.

Dave

[machina]

Beautiful work Dave, looks amazing with those cylinders, like it belongs on the nose of a stunt plane.

You guys do great work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

dr

[Jake Raby]

Dave it won't blow....

[DNHunt]

Don't get me wrong Jake, I don't expect it to. I really was trying to make a point. There's a lot buried in that assembly cost (time, powder coating, and some small amount of risk). Maybe a better way to put it is that the buyer of an assembled engine gets complete piece of mind.

I once put an outboard together and had a nut and 2 washers left over. I didn't take it back apart. Funny thing it stayed together until I sold it. That included an hour marathon race turning 6K (600 rpms over redline) with a few prop walks (probably near 8K for a short time) and another 20 or so hours of just playing around (testing). I never figured out where they went or if they just ended up in the pile during the assembly. I'm not making that mistake tis time.

Dave

[fiid]

Did I see an EDIS wheel on one end of that engine???

MMMMMMM...... EDIS-n-Megasqurt???
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[DNHunt]

You sure did. I'm gonna start by dialling in the injection with a mallory dizzy then switch it over to MS & EDIS, then dyno to get it pat.

Dave