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> another v8 conversion
kd0kqq
post Feb 27 2012, 03:04 PM
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I need a little bit of of info on my v8 conv.

first off I all ready had the radiator and the engine. the engine is a fairly mild 283 maybe putting out 270hp on the high side.

I have a brand new stock 2.0 clutch and pressure plate my question is will that work on the modified flywheel no reason for a real stout clutch if it will just bake the tranny

i'v also seen where some people are using what looks to be like the stock water pump on the front of the engine how do they make that work.
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slothness
post Feb 27 2012, 03:15 PM
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Can really comment on the clutch since I'm running a renegade 9" upgrade, but a stock water pump will require cutting the firewall which gets ugly and can get loud I in the cab with a V8 strapped to your back. One of the recommended ways I've seen is using a Dedenbear water header and relocating the actual pump. Again, I can't comment on performance of this system since I'm using a complete renegade setup.
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pt_700
post Feb 27 2012, 03:22 PM
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i have a rod simpson kit that uses a side mounted pump from an old chrysler. i've also seen people use an electric pump mounted up front near the radiator. if i didn't already have the side mount, i'd probably go electric.

don't really like the idea of having to cut a hole in the firewall to use the stock sbc pump.

should add that i have yet to begin tearing into my conversion... car's still a driver!
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kd0kqq
post Feb 27 2012, 03:26 PM
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ya it sounds like i'm going to have to go with a off set water pump i just cant stand the price of it

the clutch has really got me wondering tho i would think the stock one would bolt up and may act kinda like a slipper if somes foot was to slip off the clutch real quick

and where is the best place to get the water pump

and how is rod simpson motor mount is it really all that bad or will it work for a mild v8 well
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SirAndy
post Feb 27 2012, 04:00 PM
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QUOTE(kd0kqq @ Feb 27 2012, 01:04 PM) *
the engine is a fairly mild 283 maybe putting out 270hp on the high side.

I have a brand new stock 2.0 clutch and pressure plate my question is will that work on the modified flywheel no reason for a real stout clutch if it will just bake the tranny

Won't work. BTDT. That clutch will be slipping ...

I run a KEP Stage II on my /6. Much better match for the higher HP and torque.
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bulitt
post Feb 27 2012, 04:07 PM
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Look for a meziere electric water pump on CL or Ebay. You can pick them up pretty cheap sometimes.
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Andyrew
post Feb 27 2012, 04:35 PM
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Electric pump really is the way to go. Summit Racing. One less belt, One less point of failure. Easy side of the road replacement, Decent cost.

Havent heard anything bad about the Rod Simpson mount. Is that the mound that attaches to the stock engine bar? Personally I would just do a welded tubular bar... I wouldnt touch a bolted together bar like that..

Clutch. Call up KEP (Kennedy Engineering) and tell them what your doing, they will get you a clutch package that'll work well for you. Your tranny will be fine with 270hp on a 283. Just dont use first (You wont need to), and dont drop the clutch in 2nd. You can still spin the tires and have fun, just be gentle.


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kd0kqq
post Feb 27 2012, 05:58 PM
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will a stock mount eletric water pump fit where its suppose to and do you know any one that want a new clutch and pressure plate for a 914
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JRust
post Feb 27 2012, 07:50 PM
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QUOTE(kd0kqq @ Feb 27 2012, 03:58 PM) *

will a stock mount eletric water pump fit where its suppose to and do you know any one that want a new clutch and pressure plate for a 914

No the stock mount water pump with an electric version won't work. It will still go through the firewall. Although without the belt you may only need a small hole. You want to set it up remote or move the pump to the side as suggested. Just plate the stock location with holes to route your water through.
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914.SBC
post Feb 27 2012, 09:23 PM
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Here is a pictue of the remote mount water pump the guys were talking about. This is what I am running in my car. The pump is about 300.00 and the fittings are about 150.00. Meziere is proud of their stuff so If you can find the fittings elsewhere I am sure they are cheaper. In one of the pictures you can see where I have the WP mounted. DO NOT MOUNT IT THERE. Mount it as low as you can go so the lower radiator is is level as you can get it.

Why mount it low? If you take a water hose and point it straight up, the water only goes so high before it stops and falls back down. If you hold a water hose out level, the stream is rather strong and has good pressure outward. That is the idea you want to accomplish.

Post some pics of your set up.


Attached image(s)
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kd0kqq
post Feb 28 2012, 04:47 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys I think by the time I get this done I'm going to have alot more questions. there really is not any 914's here for me to even look at in Nebraska kind of a rare car here

Thanks again
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914GT
post Feb 28 2012, 06:18 PM
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My Dedenbear WP3 remote electric pump with WH1 water header still running great, has been eight years so far no problems.
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bulitt
post Feb 29 2012, 06:57 AM
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QUOTE(914GT @ Feb 28 2012, 07:18 PM) *

My Dedenbear WP3 remote electric pump with WH1 water header still running great, has been eight years so far no problems.


That WH-1 looks like a nice piece. Are you using the ETK1 auto bleeder also?
Pictures?
Thanks
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914GT
post Feb 29 2012, 10:50 AM
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I'm using a modified ETK1 expansion tank, the stock outlet cut off and hole re-threaded to clearance the firewall. It has performed very well over the years keeping air out of the system, a drawback is access to the cap when initial filling but that does not need to be done very often. I only have to check the level in the overflow tank once in a while. If I was to do it over I'd probably go with a different arrangement.

Here is a photo from around 2004-2005 showing the location of the pump and connection to the water header, not completely visible at upper right. It looks about the same today, some of the fittings may have changed when I installed A/C a few years later. Note I'm using a stock Chevy fuel pump, which cannot be done with the usual belt-drive water pump arrangement.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i216.photobucket.com-2923-1330534211.1.jpg)

Guy T.
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kd0kqq
post Mar 1 2012, 12:45 AM
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i love seeing pictures
can any one get me a pic between the fire wall and the engine so i can see just how much space there is
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Andyrew
post Mar 1 2012, 08:26 AM
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Between block and firewall, 2-3 inches max.
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kd0kqq
post Mar 29 2012, 11:34 AM
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here is an update on my project
I've got most of my body work done so far and I have most of the kit to put my 283 in it

the specs on my engine are
283 bored .030 over
reworked rods
stock forged crank turned 10m 10r
luntai cam 00010 230 @ .050 about 512 lift with my 1.6-1 roller rocker
fully ported 601 heads with 1.94in valve
11-1 compression
victor jr intake and a holley 750dp
should pull from about 3000-7000rpm
my engine plan to a big leap but I want to get the hp to a higher rpm

now i'm just hopping my tranny will hold up for alittle wile i do have a spare just in case has any one hit a good stock tranny with 380-400hp thanks for any info and or comments

i would post pics but the usb port in my laptop is broke i'll try go get some on a cd so i can post them
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Mike Bellis
post Mar 29 2012, 08:08 PM
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Don't use 1st gear. Ever!
Do not romp on the gas until the clutch is out and you are around 2000 rpm.

Tranny will last forever.
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kd0kqq
post Mar 30 2012, 10:27 PM
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thanks for the advice i would like it to last for ever but just in case i have a spare that i would like to rebuild for the future
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matthepcat
post Mar 30 2012, 11:30 PM
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Welcome to the club!

Maybe I should get an electric water pump and set it up as a back up for when by belt gets tossed......hmm.
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