914 FUCHS/MAHLE, Wheel Center Caps (Photo's), Mikey914 caps are beautiful alongside my NOS Caps |
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914 FUCHS/MAHLE, Wheel Center Caps (Photo's), Mikey914 caps are beautiful alongside my NOS Caps |
TJB/914 |
Mar 3 2012, 08:29 AM
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#1
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Mid-Engn. Group: Members Posts: 4,336 Joined: 24-February 03 From: Plymouth & Petoskey, MI Member No.: 346 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I just received my set of Mikey914 special order 914 Wheel Caps for my (new) spare MAHLE set of wheels. Workmanship and duplication are exact copies. The only difference is the bright finish between the two (see photo's).
BTW: I purchased this spare NOS factory cap over 10-years ago and paid $25.00 bucks and today they go for $50 to $100 bucks each if you can find them. Mikey914's Repo Caps are a bargain and underpriced in my opinion. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Get them before his supply runs out. Run, don't walk, spend your money. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Mikey914 is a great vendor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) Tom Attached thumbnail(s) Attached image(s) |
Tom_T |
Mar 3 2012, 10:31 AM
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#2
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
I wonder if Mark could do a bit more highly polished on his to get the match dead-on?
Otherwise, they're excellent, as usual for him! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Mikey914 |
Mar 5 2012, 03:29 AM
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#3
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,678 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
I could chrome plate them, it adds a few bucks to each part, but the anodized finish is actually more durable.
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eric9144 |
Mar 5 2012, 10:44 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 30-March 11 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 12,876 Region Association: Southern California |
Just my opinion, but I think the finish on Mark's repro caps actually look better on my wheels than the OE caps...
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914werke |
Mar 5 2012, 11:15 AM
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#5
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,142 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Very nice! I like the wider flange like those on the early boxed OE caps rather than the narrow lip available on the OE caps available now (in the plastic bags).
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Mikey914 |
Mar 5 2012, 11:26 AM
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#6
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,678 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
Just my opinion, but I think the finish on Mark's repro caps actually look better on my wheels than the OE caps... Actually I chose this finsh because of the durability and that this is the process used on the wheel, so it looks like the wheel only a little brighter. |
Tom_T |
Mar 5 2012, 01:29 PM
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#7
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
I could chrome plate them, it adds a few bucks to each part, but the anodized finish is actually more durable. What is the OE finish Mark- polished SS? .... cuz I didn't think they were originally chromed. I agree that the anodized will be more durable, and anodizing "takes the edge off" of the polished aluminum's shininess - as we see with the non-anodized polished Fuchs 2L wheels, vs, the anodized ones - even freshly restored by Al Reed or Harvey Weideman. BTW - on the painted Mahle & Pedrini alloys & factory anodized Fuchs 2L's, they probably look fine & agree that they'd make those look brighter. I think the only time it's critical to look dead OE is in a CW where they're judging originality, and then you can always pull out the NOS set for the judging, then swap Mark's back on. Wider lip is a great plus too! Good work as always Mark! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) |
flippa |
Mar 5 2012, 01:32 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,177 Joined: 7-May 07 From: Boston, MA Member No.: 7,720 Region Association: North East States |
Just my opinion, but I think the finish on Mark's repro caps actually look better on my wheels than the OE caps... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I recieved mine & have to say that the new caps look awesome. Thanks Mark! |
TheCabinetmaker |
Mar 5 2012, 01:56 PM
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#9
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,304 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
I like the satin finish better too. I bought a set and the only set of wheels I have that they will fit on is my Pedrinis. They have hooziers on them so they will never see the caps anyway. Not sure what I'm gonna do with them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I just wanted them.
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monkeyboy |
Mar 5 2012, 03:03 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 808 Joined: 8-June 08 From: Los Angeles, Ca Member No.: 9,147 Region Association: None |
I installed mine today. They look awesome.
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Mikey914 |
Mar 5 2012, 03:11 PM
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#11
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,678 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
I could chrome plate them, it adds a few bucks to each part, but the anodized finish is actually more durable. What is the OE finish Mark- polished SS? .... cuz I didn't think they were originally chromed. I agree that the anodized will be more durable, and anodizing "takes the edge off" of the polished aluminum's shininess - as we see with the non-anodized polished Fuchs 2L wheels, vs, the anodized ones - even freshly restored by Al Reed or Harvey Weideman. BTW - on the painted Mahle & Pedrini alloys & factory anodized Fuchs 2L's, they probably look fine & agree that they'd make those look brighter. I think the only time it's critical to look dead OE is in a CW where they're judging originality, and then you can always pull out the NOS set for the judging, then swap Mark's back on. Wider lip is a great plus too! Good work as always Mark! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Sorry I should have been more specific. The finish on the wheel is closer to the finish I used. It's not a straight anodized finish, but has a pretreatment that we were working with on the windshiled trim (yes I brought it up, and I should have metal for those this week to go to finishing), that because of the alloy and temper didn't work, but it is possible to annodize and make shinier than just anodized. You can have these chrome plated if you really want then to match. |
TJB/914 |
Mar 5 2012, 03:25 PM
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#12
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Mid-Engn. Group: Members Posts: 4,336 Joined: 24-February 03 From: Plymouth & Petoskey, MI Member No.: 346 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I could chrome plate them, it adds a few bucks to each part, but the anodized finish is actually more durable. What is the OE finish Mark- polished SS? .... cuz I didn't think they were originally chromed. I agree that the anodized will be more durable, and anodizing "takes the edge off" of the polished aluminum's shininess - as we see with the non-anodized polished Fuchs 2L wheels, vs, the anodized ones - even freshly restored by Al Reed or Harvey Weideman. BTW - on the painted Mahle & Pedrini alloys & factory anodized Fuchs 2L's, they probably look fine & agree that they'd make those look brighter. I think the only time it's critical to look dead OE is in a CW where they're judging originality, and then you can always pull out the NOS set for the judging, then swap Mark's back on. Wider lip is a great plus too! Good work as always Mark! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Tom & Gallery. I agree with everyone on Mikey's anodized satin finish for the stock look. The FUCHS on my car are highly polished and the bright Stainless Steel NOS ones look good, but If I use my (spare) stock MAHLE wheels the anodized finish will look better. Question: My factory Certificate (see attachment) says my car has Alloy Wheels from the factory. My car came with FUCHS, but since the certificate does not specify FUCHS or MAHLE's can I get dinged when I show at PCA events???? Wondering (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) Tom Attached thumbnail(s) |
Tom_T |
Mar 5 2012, 06:05 PM
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#13
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Question: My factory Certificate (see attachment) says my car has Alloy Wheels from the factory. My car came with FUCHS, but since the certificate does not specify FUCHS or MAHLE's can I get dinged when I show at PCA events???? Wondering (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) Tom Tom - Parade level & tie-breakers at Zone level are the only place that originality can be used in PCA shows, but other classic & concours car events have other more strict originality rules that you'd have to check. For our Zone 8 Regions' concours, we're specifically told NOT to judge originality at all. However, I've used it to help place modified P-cars into the modified classes (e.g.: a 912 with a 914 2.0 H4 motor built by FAT Performance, & a 914-6 conversion), but then they're just judged on condition & prep relative to the others in class. As for which were originally on your 914-2.0 from the factory (dealer & PO changes aside), the best place to look is on your window sticker or dealer invoice - if you have it. Otherwise, go to Jeff Bowlsby's website link below & get the 3 option codes for Fuchs 2.0, Mahle & Pedrini 4-lug wheels, then call PCNA's COA Dept. & ask them to look up the Kardex on your 914 & tell you which one it shows, then ask them to send you a corrected COA with the actual wheel type shown, which should be free (email if you get any guff from them & I'll give you some tips). They may ask you to email the information, but their policy is to correct COA errors at no charge, since they're the experts" & COAs are supposed to be correct (I know, even Pat's Norwegian thing too). BTW - "Forged Lightweight Alloy Wheels" or similar refer to the Fuchs 2L 4-lug wheels - since they were the only factory forged wheels; whereas "cast alloy wheels" or similar wording could be either Mahle or Pedrini alloy wheels. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) ALL - Note that Tom's COA lists certain options, but not the Appearance Group of options - which on a 914-2.0 would be 2L Fuchs Alloys unless changed by the PO/buyer, dealer or as a request to the factory (which latter should show on the Kardex, but record keeping wasn't perfect). So his 74 2L was individually optioned for each item and any of the 3 alloy typs could've been used at owner request or factory build selection - dealer & PO later changes aside (unless PCNA staff screwed up the COA option codes, which they often do! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ). Therefore if you're in the below position of 73 MY 2L ("914 S"), or the above individual options for 74-76 MYs - then you need to contact PCNA's COA dept. & make them dig deeper for the true & complete options originally on the vehicle, but you may have to go up the ladder to management to get it corrected (as I had to do on 3 tries - and NOT Rugby Tries (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) ). The 73 MY is a bit stickier, since until very late in the 73 MY production +/- March on - most or all 914-2.0's were delivered from the factory fully loaded with both the Appearance & Performance Groups of options (including the 2L Fuchs wheels). However, the factory did not note that nor the "included options" on the kardex - which then can't get onto the COAs, since it was considered a standard feature/included option in the package - similarly to the 914 LEs & 911 RS packages not specifying all items. This is further discussed in the "914 S" topic in the Originality & History Forum for those interested in reading further. Here's a pic of my COA, early 73 MY dealer brochure pages & an early USA 73 MY "914 S" magazine ad ("914 S" was the early 73 MY USA Porsche+Audi marketing name for the new for 73 "fully loaded/included options 914-2.0 model) .... . Obviously this minimal info on a 73 2L's COA makes it difficult to prove out which wheels originally left the factory on the car, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ... not to mention dealers' nasty habit of taking wheels off the 914s & other P-cars to sell separately (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) at 100% profit or to swap for other buyer requests! Hopefully this helps Tom & anyone else looking to figure out proper original fitment on their 914. O&H Forum also has a Wheels & Tires nailed topic with much more info. on this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
TJB/914 |
Mar 5 2012, 09:21 PM
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#14
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Mid-Engn. Group: Members Posts: 4,336 Joined: 24-February 03 From: Plymouth & Petoskey, MI Member No.: 346 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Tom T,
Thanks for this excellent teachable summary on the 914 Kardex Certificates. Good Stuff. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Tom |
Tom_T |
Mar 6 2012, 12:29 AM
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#15
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Tom T, Thanks for this excellent teachable summary on the 914 Kardex Certificates. Good Stuff. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Tom Glad to help Tom. To get my COA correct as above, it took 3 tries, the last I had to go to the Div. GM of PCNA's Customer Care Div., so if you hit a brick wall, contact me & I'll get you his contact info. (hopefully he's still there). Same fro anyone else fighting lame code interpretations by COA staff -like the "Norwegian Option" on a USA market 72 914/4! .... Pat G!!?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I think this might be the dual USA version of "Norwegian Option M69" - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
DAX |
Mar 6 2012, 11:44 PM
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#16
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 11 Joined: 5-April 10 From: CALIFORNIA Member No.: 11,564 Region Association: Central California |
need a set for my mahle who do I contact? dax
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Mikey914 |
Mar 7 2012, 12:27 PM
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#17
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,678 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
Me-
I'll PM you |
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