Spun Rear Wheel Bearing, Do I need to replace the control arm? Options

[skeates]

Just pressed out the rear wheel bearings to find that one of them had spun pretty bad. Left some scorch marks in the seat in the control arm and what looks like a pretty bad score. I tried to get some pics, but the cell phone camera couldn't quite get the right exposure. Am I correct in assuming that I would need to get these machined in order to use them again? If so, is there enough material in there to machine them and still have enough interference for the bearing to seat correctly - or do I need to replace the control arms? I'd appreciate any help possible!

[Valy]

I don't see anything alarming there. The bearing should be hold in place and some scratching in that hole are not an issue.
The most important thing to check is that the hole is round and the diameter is indeed correct. If it's too big or not round, then you need a new one.
I'm not aware of oversize bearings to fit in a bigger hole.

[02loftsmoor]

clean the bore up, and check the fit with a new brearing, press fit.
Wes

[TheCabinetmaker]

If you had to press the old one out and the new one presses in, it should be ok.

[brant]

I don't think that is a spun bearing

I think that is normal rust you see from any bearing replacement job.

[dangrouche]

worst case, if the bore is oversized, you could even consider drill and tapping for a big allen set screw and use loctite. I would try that before even considering changing out the suspension arm.

[02loftsmoor]

putting in allan screw and pushing on a bearing race WILL distort the race and you WILL have a faulure. it's a press fit. Just having a car sitting for long periods will flatten the rollers. that how close the the Tolerances are. Never make modications to a bearing seat. Specially a wheel bearing

worst case, if the bore is oversized, you could even consider drill and tapping for a big allen set screw and use loctite. I would try that before even considering changing out the suspension arm.

[02loftsmoor]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[davesprinkle]

The term "spun bearing" describes a failure that only applies to babbit or plain bearing, like the crank main-bearing and rod bearings. This typically happens when you lose oil-pressure for some reason. As a result of the reduced oil film, the inner surface of the bearing locks onto the journal and then spins in the case -- hence the term "spun bearing". When this happens, the oil-feed hole in the bearing gets covered up, and then your previously-meager oil pressure drops all the way to zero. Game over, man, game over.

Regarding your wheel bearing, I agree with the other posters:
-- Don't worry about minor scratches in the bore of the trailing arm
-- Do not machine out the trailing arm bore -- this will ruin the intended press-fit of the bearing.
-- Do not install a set-screw. Seriously. Do not.
-- Clean up the bore and press in a new bearing. Press on the outer race only. If you press on the inner race, then just buy a new bearing and do it all over again.

[skeates]

That sounds like some pretty good news to me! Thanks for the clarification of terms. So, what would one call it if the outer race of a wheel bearing spins in it's seat - though it sounds like it may not have happened anyways. Is brake cleaner the best thing to clean-up the seat? What has worked best for you guys? Also, is it worth getting the consoles powder coated, or should I just paint?

Thanks!

[davesprinkle]

Your wheel bearing should never spin its outer race in the bore of the trailing arm -- that's what the press-fit is for.

Scotch-brite and WD-40 will get the grime out of the bore. Don't worry about scratches. Get the bore clean and press in the new bearing.

That sounds like some pretty good news to me! Thanks for the clarification of terms. So, what would one call it if the outer race of a wheel bearing spins in it's seat - though it sounds like it may not have happened anyways. Is brake cleaner the best thing to clean-up the seat? What has worked best for you guys? Also, is it worth getting the consoles powder coated, or should I just paint?

Thanks!

[02loftsmoor]

find a cleaner that works for you. there is a whole host of good products out there

Your wheel bearing should never spin its outer race in the bore of the trailing arm -- that's what the press-fit is for.

Scotch-brite and WD-40 will get the grime out of the bore. Don't worry about scratches. Get the bore clean and press in the new bearing.

That sounds like some pretty good news to me! Thanks for the clarification of terms. So, what would one call it if the outer race of a wheel bearing spins in it's seat - though it sounds like it may not have happened anyways. Is brake cleaner the best thing to clean-up the seat? What has worked best for you guys? Also, is it worth getting the consoles powder coated, or should I just paint?

Thanks!

[Bartlett 914]

What you are seeing is rust and or grease that has burned from pressure. Clean well and use oil when pressing in the new bearing.

[euro911]

You said the outer race spins in the bore? ... how did you determine that?

Was it hard to press out?, or did it come out relatively easy?

What did you use to get it out - a shop press, or a makeshift bearing puller?

[skeates]

You said the outer race spins in the bore? ... how did you determine that?

Was it hard to press out?, or did it come out relatively easy?

What did you use to get it out - a shop press, or a makeshift bearing puller?

Well, I thought that the outer race had spun because of a couple of things:

1) The inside bearing seal had blown out (leaving a mess of grease inside the control arm).
2) The bearings pressed out very easily (very little resistance on the shop press, esp. compared to the hubs)
3) This is my fist time pressing out wheel bearings and I interpreted the burnt markings and scoring as being due to movement of the outer race against its seat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

It sounds like I just need to clean things up and press in the new ones (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)