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> circuit board, cleaning the copper
02loftsmoor
post Apr 23 2012, 08:23 PM
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OK Campers who have repaired your relayboards, what did you us to clean the copper to be able to solder the connections WES (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Attached ImageAttached Image
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Tom
post Apr 24 2012, 06:35 AM
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I have never done a relay board, however I have repaired many circuit boards in electronic equipment. Use a pencil type eraser to clean the area to be soldered, then flush with isopropyl alcohol. Cleanliness is a must for good soldering.
If after cleaning, the solder does not "flow" well, try some flux. Just be sure to wash again after completed.
Tom
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budk
post Apr 24 2012, 06:51 AM
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alcohol and a scuff pad.
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rwilner
post Apr 24 2012, 06:55 AM
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I think some people have used a dremel with a wire brush on the end. I am doing something similar and that's what I'm going to try
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02loftsmoor
post Apr 24 2012, 06:56 AM
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wondering would acid flux be a bit aggressive




QUOTE(Tom @ Apr 24 2012, 07:35 AM) *

I have never done a relay board, however I have repaired many circuit boards in electronic equipment. Use a pencil type eraser to clean the area to be soldered, then flush with isopropyl alcohol. Cleanliness is a must for good soldering.
If after cleaning, the solder does not "flow" well, try some flux. Just be sure to wash again after completed.
Tom
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02loftsmoor
post Apr 24 2012, 06:57 AM
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those copper strips a very thin. be careful. I got this far using carb cleaner




QUOTE(rwilner @ Apr 24 2012, 07:55 AM) *

I think some people have used a dremel with a wire brush on the end. I am doing something similar and that's what I'm going to try
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walterolin
post Apr 24 2012, 07:34 AM
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Don't use acid core, the residual flux may continue to eat the copper.

Rosin core for electronics.

Olin
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Joe Owensby
post Apr 24 2012, 08:47 PM
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I used the Dremel tool. I also made a little more room around the contact area so that I could get a tip from a larger soldering iron in to get plenty of heat to make a good connection. make sure the copper on both pieces is very clean. JoeO
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Mr.242
post Apr 24 2012, 09:34 PM
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As a kid we put a penny in lemon juice and it made the penny shine.

Any reason why the board could not be soaked in lemon juice, then rinsed real good after the process?

I know I have done this on my chrome fog light trim and it worked great. Just enough acidic properties to break up the oxidation. Have I not posted pictures of that experiment?

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underthetire
post Apr 24 2012, 09:52 PM
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You got a lot more tar to get off first. I heated mine up with a heat gun and soaked it in goof off. Then the lemon sounds like a good idea.
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Mike Bellis
post Apr 24 2012, 10:19 PM
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There is really no "electrical" need to clean the copper under the board. DC current travels in the center of the conductor unlike AC which has a skin effect. The copper terminals on the top can be cleaned for better contact.

Get all the loose debris off it. Check for any possible cold solder joints and fill with 3M electrical epoxy. Done.

Pollishing the copper or wire wheeling it is a waste of time unles there is physical damage.
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falconfp2001
post Apr 24 2012, 11:59 PM
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QUOTE(02loftsmoor @ Apr 24 2012, 05:56 AM) *

wondering would acid flux be a bit aggressive




QUOTE(Tom @ Apr 24 2012, 07:35 AM) *

I have never done a relay board, however I have repaired many circuit boards in electronic equipment. Use a pencil type eraser to clean the area to be soldered, then flush with isopropyl alcohol. Cleanliness is a must for good soldering.
If after cleaning, the solder does not "flow" well, try some flux. Just be sure to wash again after completed.
Tom



Acid Flux helps the copper accept the solder quicker. Using flux solder wire would work the best because you will use less heat against the copper. You'll have to clean the tip as you go though.
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HarveyH
post Apr 25 2012, 06:28 AM
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I did this last summer. I scraped out the traces with a small screwdriver and dental picks. I then used a Dremel tool with a small round bristle brush and kitchen cleanser. Washed well with soap and water and flushed with Isopropyl Alcohol. Soldered with rosin core electronic solder (the old Tin-Lead type). On some terminals I used a bit of additional rosin flux. Cleaned with Isopropyl again. Coated the back of the board using Plasti-Coat or whatever it is that you use to dip tool handles in. I used an acid brush and multiple coats, alowing to dry overnight between coats.

Harvey
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Bartlett 914
post Apr 25 2012, 06:41 AM
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QUOTE(HarveyH @ Apr 25 2012, 07:28 AM) *

I did this last summer. I scraped out the traces with a small screwdriver and dental picks. I then used a Dremel tool with a small round bristle brush and kitchen cleanser. Washed well with soap and water and flushed with Isopropyl Alcohol. Soldered with rosin core electronic solder (the old Tin-Lead type). On some terminals I used a bit of additional rosin flux. Cleaned with Isopropyl again. Coated the back of the board using Plasti-Coat or whatever it is that you use to dip tool handles in. I used an acid brush and multiple coats, alowing to dry overnight between coats.

Harvey

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Best advice so far! I would not rely on any type of electrical epoxy.
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