Weber Jets, ...what does a good clean one look like? Options

[7TPorsh]

In the process o trying to get the car to run smooth I have removed the jets from my Webers.

If I understand this properly there are three pieces: tube holder, jet, and cap.

As I removed them, one jet had come out of its tube holder and was sitting in the carb. A little coaxing and pressing and I was able to remove the jet fine. I thought I would squeeze the tabs on the holder a little so it would hold the jet better; but in doing so a tab broke off. metal seems very brittle.

Tube can hold jet ok but I think I need a new tube...are these available?

If the jet was not pressed tight into the tube; would it affect performance?

[7TPorsh]

Also what is the best way to clean these?

I can see light through the little holes in the tube. And just a little light through the bottom slanted holes. Not too much light on the bottom and one jet...very little.

Varnished? Can I clean these or just buy new ones? ...are they costly?

[Elliot Cannon]

I used to have trouble with idle jets clogging. I use a magnifying glass to see if they are clogged. You can plainly see if they are clear or not. A blast of hot air (which I have plenty of) can clear them. If not safe careful use of compressed air can do the job. There are a few places where parts for webers are abailable. Google is your friend and so are many of the folks on this web site that will probably chime in here and offer better information than I can.
Cheers, Elliot

[euro911]

Looks like you have a broken upper emulsion tube holder. Try to locate a better one.

Pull the stacks apart (main jets, emulsion tubes, air correction jets and upper holders). You should be able to see daylight through everything except the emulsion tubes.

Soak everything in carb cleaner, then blow compressed air through them. Be careful - hold onto the jets firmly when blowing with air ... they can easily get away from you.

Usually you can slip a strand of a wire brush through the orifice on an idle jet prior to spraying with cleaner and air.

[Mark Henry]

The correct term is "main jet carrier" do a google search, check thesamba.com, they are available new and used.

They are held together once they are screwed down into the carb, should be ok if they are a tad loose.

[7TPorsh]

So when you guys are tuning carbs...which piece is changed?

Is the jet #11 ? or #135?

Just curious...last guy who tuned it says he changed the jets.

[euro911]

Gary, I wouldn't be 'changing' any jets until you get it running stable and have the air/fuel ratio checked out.

Just go through the jet cleaning process first. Also, don't over-tighten the jet stack when reinstalling in the carb.

I was using the term 'emulsion tube holder' (instead of 'jet carrier') as the Weber diagram posted on a different thread called it such. Didn't want to add any additional confusion (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[nolift914]

Those are your main jets listed as 135, but if you are having problems with idling then you need to pull your idle jets

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.chircoestore.com-10399-1350325800.1.jpg)

which are behind flat head screws below


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.mydune-buggy.com-10399-1350325800.2.gif)

they would clog and the engine would have a hard time idling and running below 3000rpm.

I would just blow them out like blowing air through a straw

[Eric_Shea]

Agree. Use the "Lean Best" method to tune before playing with changing jets. It can be found on Paul Abbots site. www.performanceoriented.com. Make sure your engine is at operating temperature before tuning.

Clean with... Carb cleaner and a brass brush.

[Mark Henry]

Gary, I wouldn't be 'changing' any jets until you get it running stable and have the air/fuel ratio checked out.

Just go through the jet cleaning process first. Also, don't over-tighten the jet stack when reinstalling in the carb.

I was using the term 'emulsion tube holder' (instead of 'jet carrier') as the Weber diagram posted on a different thread called it such. Didn't want to add any additional confusion (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Yep, different terms add to the confusion 'emulsion tube holder' is correct as well, for some reason PMO and others call it a "main jet carrier" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[bulitt]

This brings back memories. Had 45 dcoes on my toyota in 1973. Not many places to get parts back then. Guy in the back of autoweek rag-
Al Cosentino was about the only source on the east coast. He ran a business called Forza (faza?). Sent him a check and he mailed the parts, two week turn around! Didn't have the $$$ for a bunch of jets being in college so bought the Weber drill kit and would solder the jets then drill them out. Once determined the right size would order the jets. Luckily the solder never broke loose... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

So had 10:1 Arias pistons and a cam and would do the plug cuts to set the A/F ratio Had a detonation and bent a rod once (lean wasn't best here!)... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

Oh to have a wide band back then... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[7TPorsh]

Not changing anything ...just curious.

Need to clean them first and see if that fixes things. Idle jets are clean. Car sputters under load.

[euro911]

Check and clean the accelerator pump components as well (items 10~13 0n the diagram, 2 per carb).




Another item, assure the floats (51) are adjusted properly. You'll need to remove the carb tops to access them.

As a last resort, you may need to remove the carbs, partially disassemble them (remove the floats and all jets) and boil-out the carb body to clean out any clogged ports.

As to which jet sizes folks run, again, don't do anything until you have a baseline reading with the configuration you currently have. You may already be jetted for the optimum A/F ratio. Each engine is different and there isn't a single magic bullet configuration to follow.

Buy a Weber carburetor book (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[7TPorsh]

Thanks Mark, not tuning yet. It was tuned before and started running bad so I am guessing it's jetted correctly and something else is crapping it out. Hoping a good cleaning will do the trick

[euro911]

Found a video on You Tube that should help guide you through a carb cleaning ... Click here

[rhodyguy]

item #23 (small o-ring that seals the idle jet holder) is VERY important. inspect them for for cracks and they may even be missing. i'd just replace them and be done with it. contact AIR COOLED ENGINEERING (801-747-3341) for the broken main stack holder and i imagine the o-rings are in stock.

when airing out the jets and what not, blow backwards (from tapered end towards the holders). at what rpm does the "sputtering under load" occur and what do you consider a "load"? climbing a hill at lower speed, just pulling away from a dead stop, other?

[DBCooper]

Weber and Dellorto parts are still around, no problem. ACE is excellent. CB Performance also carries everything you'd need, and they're the source for the CB Jet Doctors that help keep crap out of your idle jets. Don't worry about that now, finish what you're doing and their usefulness will become clear as you drive the car and get practice blowing out the jets roadside.

Another place I really like is Pierce Manifolds , down in Gilroy. Art and CB are big in the VW scene, Pierce does VW's too, but they take it on into hot rods, motorcycles, SCCA MG's, Cobras and anything else you can put Webers on, check some of these out: Pierce Photo Gallery. If you ever wondered where those guys get those four IDF manifolds and all that ridiculously complicated linkage for their V8 hot rods, it's Pierce. Nice guys, too.

John at Aircooled.net is another excellent resource, a LOT of knowledge. He can be cranky like our own Krusty, but over the years I've realized he's also usually right, so it's worth paying attention. There is a series of articles on his site about tuning Webers that are written in layman's terms that should be helpful.

I've become old and lazy so I hate Webers myself, but nobody can deny how good they sound and go when they're on.

[rhodyguy]

interesting tidbit buried on abbot's site. deteriorating FUEL LINES!! if they're crappy past the filter the jets will be fouled on a regular basis or trapped in the filter that might still be at the inlets, and what doesn't hit the jets will settle in the bowls. time to upgrade to lines designed for modern fuels. good reference eric.

k

[7TPorsh]

Thanks guys, they are all soaking in carb cleaner right now.

...car runs sporadic when accelerating from a stop. I can drive under light load but really jerky...up a hill it loses it...

I took out the idle jets and cleaned them but didn't check the rings.

Fuel lines and pump are all new. Stainless in the tunnel.

[rhodyguy]

blowing the jets backwards doesn't even require a compressor. this is all you need.