No Spark!, Stumped Options

[Dennis]

I have a Raby dyno'd 2270 that I have recently installed in my going on 4 year '74 restoration. It has a Mallory Unilite distributor and Mallory Promaster E series coil with ballast resistor. I can't get a spark at the plug or out of the coil. I have checked posts here and across the internet to no avail which means I'm missing something simple.

I have checked that the coil is not shorted and has proper primary and secondary resistence. The coil is getting 12 v on the '15' and '1' side with ignition in 'on' and in cranking mode. Although the voltage drops to about 10V when cranking. The tach lead is connected to the '1' side of the coil. The ballast resistor is in series with the +12 v connection from the ignition to the distributor. The coil is mounted to the engine tin on the passenger side near the oil cooler.

I have checked that the distributor "points" are opening and closing.

Can anyone see the simple item I have missed?

Denis

[edwin]

Points or elec module in the unilite? The modules have a habit of dying from what I've read
Pretty sure you need to run spiral leads with that setup

[underthetire]

Not following your ballast resistor set up..

http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/p...nitor12vneg.pdf

[timothy_nd28]

sounds like your points are burnt. If this is true, you'll need a new set. For a temp repair, and will not last long, remove the points and file lightly the point surface. Reinstall and try again. If this works, order a couple extra sets of points.

[cgnj]

Unilite testing instructions here

Quick review says it's wired correctly.
Unilite installation instructions here
You need spiral wound wires, or will release the magic smoke from the module. I found the cheapest replacement module at Amazon. I carry a spare, plus a Bosch 050.

Carlos

[timothy_nd28]

sounds like your points are burnt. If this is true, you'll need a new set. For a temp repair, and will not last long, remove the points and file lightly the point surface. Reinstall and try again. If this works, order a couple extra sets of points.

My bad, I didn't realize that you had a pointless dizzy. Didn't you say in your first post that you witnessed the points open and close? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[cgnj]

sounds like your points are burnt. If this is true, you'll need a new set. For a temp repair, and will not last long, remove the points and file lightly the point surface. Reinstall and try again. If this works, order a couple extra sets of points.

My bad, I didn't realize that you had a pointless dizzy. Didn't you say in your first post that you witnessed the points open and close? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

He used points in quotes. Upon review, he did say he confirmed the operation of the sensor, so looks like a coil. If you have a Bosch blue coil, it should work without the resister.

Carlos

[Dennis]

Thanks all. Sorry for the confusion in the description of the ignition set up. The distributor does not have points. I do have the ballast resister wired correctly; not as I described it. (I didn't even spell my own name correctly in the post!)

I will try the Mallory Unilite test procedure again but the problem is that I don't get a spark from the coil to deliver to the distributor.

[Tom]

In your first post you say you have 12 volts at 15 and 1. 1 is the dizzy side and should go to 0 volts when the "points" close. If your module in the dizzy is not closing the ground circuit, you will not get a discharge from the coil. I also see that you say the "points module" is opening and closing. If this is in fact true, you have a bad connection between the 1 terminal and the dizzy module.
Tom

[euro911]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I'd reinstall a standard Bosch dizzy with breaker points to determine if high voltage is building up in the coil with the points closed, and discharging when the points open.

If you get spark at the plugs (or even just at the coil), the Unilite module is probably toast.