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Erben914 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 137 Joined: 1-January 13 From: Sacramento Member No.: 15,314 Region Association: Central California ![]() |
Hey guys I need some advice. My engine bar is bent backwards towards the rear of the car. The bar itself looks fine, but the two bolts are angled about 60 degrees instead of 90. My shift linkage is rubbing but isn't causing any problems.
My question is... Should I use a big pry bar and bent it back to vertical or do I need to drop the bar and do something at the mount area? I don't want to weaken the bolts or the mounts more. Are the mounts rubber and they just need to be re seated? Thanks for any help |
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brant |
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#2
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,949 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
you drug over a parking curb / trailer / or something
its common... the bar drags and is the lowest thing the bolts that hold the bar are bent If you buy new bolts you could loosen one side at a time with a jack and replace them to make everything straight you can try prying it back, but the bolts are still probably bent and you need to be careful that you don't create damage on what ever you are prying against |
Erben914 |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 137 Joined: 1-January 13 From: Sacramento Member No.: 15,314 Region Association: Central California ![]() |
you drug over a parking curb / trailer / or something its common... the bar drags and is the lowest thing the bolts that hold the bar are bent If you buy new bolts you could loosen one side at a time with a jack and replace them to make everything straight you can try prying it back, but the bolts are still probably bent and you need to be careful that you don't create damage on what ever you are prying against Ok thanks. I'm gonna carefully give it a twist with a pipe wrench. If I snap the bolt I guess I will replace it. I plan to do an engine drop this summer and fix it properly then. |
brant |
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#4
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,949 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
just be careful if you pry against anything.
the fan housing/engine block wont like it and you can replace without dropping the motor pretty easy 2 wrenches, and a new bolt- 15 minutes |
sixnotfour |
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#5
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,822 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
speed bump backwards should do it..
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reharvey |
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#6
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 573 Joined: 16-July 08 From: N. E. Ohio Member No.: 9,308 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
The brackets the bolts go though may also be bent.
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stugray |
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#7
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None ![]() |
We need to know what year.
The motor mounts are different. If it is early, there are rubber mounts that attach the bar to the engine and hard mounts at the ends. If it is a late bar, then it is hard bolted to the engine and soft mounted at the ends. (might be the opposite) Where your bolts are bent determines if you can fix it by bending. I would NOT just try to bend it back into place, if the bolt breaks, the engine will try to fall out causing more damage. Stu |
rgalla9146 |
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#8
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,743 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
speed bump backwards should do it.. Tail shifter or side shifter ? If a side shifter, the rubber motor mounts at the center should at least be checked for separation. The bolts at the ends of the bar often survive but the two mounting pieces that attach the bar and the body will be deformed. Remove and flatten the area in the middle where the bolt goes through. While you're at the anvil flatten the outside washers as well. Then the bar will be upright. Probably best to replace the bolts just to be safe. Tail shifter ? Not damaged as often, but when it is it can be much worse. Check the four bolts that attach to the block, if they appear loose or dislodged the block is probably damaged. Good luck |
last337 |
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#9
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 421 Joined: 4-December 12 From: New Orleans Member No.: 15,221 Region Association: None ![]() |
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reharvey |
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#10
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 573 Joined: 16-July 08 From: N. E. Ohio Member No.: 9,308 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I have the exact same problem and have been thinking about best way to fix. I figure if u try to turn either bolt they will snap. I thought possibly I could jack up engine to hold in place then grind off bolt heads and remove mount bar then back out remains of bolts. Any other ideas? ![]() Wow this looks bad--is the motor mount nut welded to the bar? |
Spoke |
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#11
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Jerry ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,158 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I recently had to remove the engine bar to do some work on the HE's.
Put the rear tires on ramps. Placed the floor jack near the middle of the engine buffered by a piece of 2x6 wood. Jacked until there was pressure on the engine. Then removed the bar. Pretty easy job. Not sure how hard it will be with the bent bolts. You may find engine mount damage as well. |
last337 |
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#12
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 421 Joined: 4-December 12 From: New Orleans Member No.: 15,221 Region Association: None ![]() |
I recently had to remove the engine bar to do some work on the HE's. Put the rear tires on ramps. Placed the floor jack near the middle of the engine buffered by a piece of 2x6 wood. Jacked until there was pressure on the engine. Then removed the bar. Pretty easy job. Not sure how hard it will be with the bent bolts. You may find engine mount damage as well. I will get some better pics tomorrow. I am expecting to have to change engine mounts as well. |
last337 |
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#13
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 421 Joined: 4-December 12 From: New Orleans Member No.: 15,221 Region Association: None ![]() |
I recently had to remove the engine bar to do some work on the HE's. Put the rear tires on ramps. Placed the floor jack near the middle of the engine buffered by a piece of 2x6 wood. Jacked until there was pressure on the engine. Then removed the bar. Pretty easy job. Not sure how hard it will be with the bent bolts. You may find engine mount damage as well. I will get some better pics tomorrow. I am expecting to have to change engine mounts as well. |
ottox914 |
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#14
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The glory that once was. ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,302 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Mahtomedi, MN Member No.: 1,438 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
Better pics would help. Sounds like you are on the right track- check the bolts, mounts to the body, and engine mounts. If you're talking about the bolts that go thru the iron bar that spans across the chassis under the engine, those bolts can rust into the bar, making the nuts easy to twist off. Soak the engine bar and bolts with some penetrating lube, and be careful with the breaker bar when twisting on the nuts to remove them and the bolts.
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Dave_Darling |
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#15
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,161 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
The big bolts are already eff'ed, so go ahead and break them if it is convenient to do so. You might have difficulty in getting the bar off the bent bolts, though. A big punch and a hammer, or better yet an air chisel, can come in handy in that case.
--DD |
Valy |
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#16
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
I have a good engine bar for you for free. Just come and take it.
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McMark |
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#17
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
Best way to completely remedy this issue:
1. support the engine with a jack stand. 2. Remove the engine bar completely. 3. Remove the rubber engine mounts and visually inspect the rubber as well as the steel brackets bolted to the engine case. Replace as necessary. 4. remove the outer brackets from the body and straighten with a large punch (drift actually) and sledge hammer. 5. visually inspect the bar itself for bent ends. The bar can actually be bent/twisted pretty easily. A large vice securely mounted to a bench and a crescent wrench should be all that's necessary to straighten. 6. Reinstall all straightened pieces, don't torque/tighten anything until all bolts are in place to eliminate pre-loading. |
euro911 |
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#18
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,885 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
It would take a lot to bend a cast iron engine bar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
I think it's just the large side (outboard end) bolts, but agree with McMark, that you should inspect all the components. Tail shift model bars will have the outboard rubber mounts and solidly mounted at the engine. Side shift bars have rubber mounts at the engine and solid outboard mounts. Post some pix and indicate if you have a tail or side shift trans (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
last337 |
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#19
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 421 Joined: 4-December 12 From: New Orleans Member No.: 15,221 Region Association: None ![]() |
It would take a lot to bend a cast iron engine bar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I think it's just the large side (outboard end) bolts, but agree with McMark, that you should inspect all the components. Tail shift model bars will have the outboard rubber mounts and solidly mounted at the engine. Side shift bars have rubber mounts at the engine and solid outboard mounts. Post some pix and indicate if you have a tail or side shift trans (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Okay, now Im sure this is a dumb question but how do you tell if you have tail or side shift transmission? |
JawjaPorsche |
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#20
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,463 Joined: 23-July 11 From: Clayton, Georgia Member No.: 13,351 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
It would take a lot to bend a cast iron engine bar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I think it's just the large side (outboard end) bolts, but agree with McMark, that you should inspect all the components. Tail shift model bars will have the outboard rubber mounts and solidly mounted at the engine. Side shift bars have rubber mounts at the engine and solid outboard mounts. Post some pix and indicate if you have a tail or side shift trans (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Okay, now Im sure this is a dumb question but how do you tell if you have tail or side shift transmission? What year is your tenner? 70-72 had tail shifter. If you shift rod connects on the side of the tranny, it is a side shifter. If the shifter goes all the way to the back, it is a tail shifter. |
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