914 with 4 cylinder stock set up in long trip, how reliable is a 914 4 cylinder Options

[ndfrigi]

Hi guys,

I just saw the postings on recent trip from 66 route and it was mentioned that there are few joined the event with 4 cylinder engine.

My question is, how reliable is it for a long drive/trip with just a stock set up engine without modification in the cooling system?

Or does it need modification in the cooling system and what are those items?

My car is a 1975 1.8 FI.

Thank you and God Bless!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-...92529_thumb.jpg

[rick 918-S]

Drive it like ya stole it. Iffen it breaks fix it and keep rolling.

[McMark]

Rode in a 4 cylinder from San Francisco to Moab UT. 1000m in each direction. Not a problem the entire time.

Neither Porsche, nor Volkswagen, are known for building and selling cars that can't be driven. If your setup is in good repair, you'll have no problems. Although, the 1.8 is the most finicky 914 setup, IMHO, because of the exhaust.

[ndfrigi]

Drive it like ya stole it. Iffen it breaks fix it and keep rolling.

Ok sir so I just drive it anywhere. Maybe I should just go back to the premium AAA membership to make sure I have someone to tow it if in case something happen.

So right now I can just drive it with stock cooling system. Thank you sir!

[ndfrigi]

Rode in a 4 cylinder from San Francisco to Moab UT. 1000m in each direction. Not a problem the entire time.

Neither Porsche, nor Volkswagen, are known for building and selling cars that can't be driven. If your setup is in good repair, you'll have no problems. Although, the 1.8 is the most finicky 914 setup, IMHO, because of the exhaust.

Thank you also McMark!

[rick 918-S]

Shouldn't be an issue if the underside of the tin isn't filled with debris and all the fins on the cooling fan are intact. This is an issue we see with cars that sit outside (or in storage for that matter) for long periods of time. Mice and squirrels will get into the cooling system and build nests. If your car fits the description remove the engine, remove the tin and check it out. Also check the bellows that operates the cooling flaps. If it fails the engine defaults in the open position so overheating is less of an issue but it effects warm up.

A stock engine in good tune, properly functioning injection or carbs with a proper valve adjustment and clean oil should not have an issue with cooling.

[JamesM]

Provided everything is good on your engine/ignition/injection system before you set off you should be good. I have made the trip between Salt Lake City and Huntington Beach a few times with no problems in my d-jet 2.0. One of the trips about 10 years ago I made in about 7 hours (690 miles, you do the math (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ) pretty much all in the entire way except for the areas I know the cops hang out. Heads were running a bit hot but 10 years later and I am still using the same motor for autox.

When running properly I think these cars are a lot tougher then people give them credit for.

[ThePaintedMan]

When running properly I think these cars are a lot tougher then people give them credit for.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Drove mine all summer in primer black because my Mustang was giving me fits. Got me to and from work, which was a 1 1/2 hour drive each way. Saved my butt, and the few issues I had were things I could fix easily with the right tools.

[damesandhotrods]

You should see the mileage the bus crowd racks up in their Type IV Westys…

[ndfrigi]

Shouldn't be an issue if the underside of the tin isn't filled with debris and all the fins on the cooling fan are intact. This is an issue we see with cars that sit outside (or in storage for that matter) for long periods of time. Mice and squirrels will get into the cooling system and build nests. If your car fits the description remove the engine, remove the tin and check it out. Also check the bellows that operates the cooling flaps. If it fails the engine defaults in the open position so overheating is less of an issue but it effects warm up.

A stock engine in good tune, properly functioning injection or carbs with a proper valve adjustment and clean oil should not have an issue with cooling.

Yes all fins on the fan are complete but for the bellow that operates the flaps is no longer installed which the flaps are in open positions. It just need at least 5 to 10 mins. running to warm up the engine. Well the only thing I was not able to do is to adjust the valve and maybe replace the tunnel fuel lines which is still original.

thanks again sir!

[ThePaintedMan]

Yes I all fins on the fan are complete but for the bellow that operates the flaps is no longer installed which the flaps are in open positions. It just need at least 5 to 10 mins. running to warm up the engine. Well the only thing I was no able to do is to adjust the valve and maybe replace the tunnel fuel lines which is still original.

thanks again sir!

Those are two things you should strongly consider doing before you drive it anywhere, especially long distances.

[ndfrigi]

You should see the mileage the bus crowd racks up in their Type IV Westys…

My dad used to have a bus that I used to drive for more than 4 to 5 hrs trip and that is in the Philippines that has an average weather temperature of around 80 to 85 degrees F. Well it looks like I should not be worry with my teen. Thanks!

[ndfrigi]

Yes I all fins on the fan are complete but for the bellow that operates the flaps is no longer installed which the flaps are in open positions. It just need at least 5 to 10 mins. running to warm up the engine. Well the only thing I was no able to do is to adjust the valve and maybe replace the tunnel fuel lines which is still original.

thanks again sir!

Those are two things you should strongly consider doing before you drive it anywhere, especially long distances.

thanks for both responses!

[URY914]

I used to drive my 914 10 hours each way to college. Stock 4 banger at the time. It got great mileage too.

[timothy_nd28]

Stock cooling for a stock engine should be fine, how would you modify it anyways? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

The car is pushing 40 years old, for this reason I would replace the plastic and rubber fuel lines, and fuel injector seals. Then I would consider buying a vacuum line kit along with a new seal for your oil cap. L-jets are finicky with vacuum leaks. Beside these items, I would drive the car. Something could break, but I wouldn't let that be the reason why you don't take this on a trip.

[Dave_Darling]

Counterpoint:

My 914 runs hot. On 90+ days on longer-distance trips I would have to stop periodically to let the oil cool down. I'm pretty sure it was over 250F on occasion when I stopped.

I now have an external oil cooler, and temps never got over 240F, even in 100+ weather through the Nevada desert, climbing up hills. The cooler is in a sub-optimal location (under the rear trunk floor) but it still helped.

Charlie Davis out in TX had a 2-liter that always ran hot. He tried a number of experiments to bring down the oil temps. Some had to do with ducting air into the engine bay, others had to do with trying to get air to a poorly-located external cooler.

So there are 914s out there that could do with external coolers.

--DD

[ndfrigi]

Stock cooling for a stock engine should be fine, how would you modify it anyways? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

The car is pushing 40 years old, for this reason I would replace the plastic and rubber fuel lines, and fuel injector seals. Then I would consider buying a vacuum line kit along with a new seal for your oil cap. L-jets are finicky with vacuum leaks. Beside these items, I would drive the car. Something could break, but I wouldn't let that be the reason why you don't take this on a trip.

I did replace fuel lines from fuel tank area (drained and cleaned fuel tank which is very much clean inside even it was Non op for 8 years before I bought it) and engine area including vacuum lines replaced. The only thing I should be replacing now is the tunnel fuel lines and maybe your suggestion to replace fuel injector seals.

Thanks!

[ndfrigi]

Counterpoint:

My 914 runs hot. On 90+ days on longer-distance trips I would have to stop periodically to let the oil cool down. I'm pretty sure it was over 250F on occasion when I stopped.

I now have an external oil cooler, and temps never got over 240F, even in 100+ weather through the Nevada desert, climbing up hills. The cooler is in a sub-optimal location (under the rear trunk floor) but it still helped.

Charlie Davis out in TX had a 2-liter that always ran hot. He tried a number of experiments to bring down the oil temps. Some had to do with ducting air into the engine bay, others had to do with trying to get air to a poorly-located external cooler.

So there are 914s out there that could do with external coolers.

--DD

Sir Dave, any site or previous posting regarding external coolers which I can check?
Thank you sir for the detailed reply!

[ndfrigi]

video of my teen

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t34HO6OQ1KU

[ThePaintedMan]

Sir Dave, any site or previous posting regarding external coolers which I can check?
Thank you sir for the detailed reply!

IMHO, get the car tuned to perfection first. That includes learning how to do a valve lash adjustment, which can greatly impact how hot the car runs.

Then you can move on to finding out what the oil temperature is by installing a good gauge (might consider a quality cylinder head temperature gauge as well.) As Dave mentioned, some engines just run hot, for whatever reason, but most of them cool very well if there aren't a ton of leaves and other obstacles in the path of the air. A gauge is the only way to tell for sure.

Not to keep harping on it, but replacing your fuel lines and the seals should still be at the top of your list (http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessfuellines.htm). Chris makes a great set which you can install with the engine in the car. That is, of course, unless you like the "car-B-Q" look.