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> My 914-6 GT / 916 Project Car, Next project - 993 motor
Steve
post Apr 14 2013, 09:44 PM
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My 914-6 GT / 916 project car started out as a stock 1975 2.0 carbureted 4 banger. I bought it in 1986, by 88 it had a 2.7 six in it with MSDS motor mount, headers and muffler. I also purchased brand new over the counter PMO 40 webers with manifolds for $1000.00. Those were the days!! I bought the tank, oil lines and tin over the counter from Porsche.

In 2000, the 2.7 started pulling head studs, so I replaced it with a 3.2 from a wrecking yard. In 2005 I sold the car and then bought it back 4 years later to the day. I later noticed that the inner wheel well had broken loose. Now starts the project of converting it from a race car back to a street car.

I removed the battery tray this weekend for a better observation.
It looks like battery acid caused the seam welds to rust. Which from racing caused the seam to separate. I bought the Harbor freight camera. I will try to get some internal shots next weekend to look for other rust damage.

Looking at these pictures, what is the best way to repair this?
This is a shot of the crack inside the wheel well.
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The rest of the shots are of the seam on the inside. I will also need to order an Engine shelf. This one is pretty toast. The battery tray is not that old, but was a bitch to get out.
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!
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Mike Bellis
post Apr 14 2013, 09:58 PM
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That looks pretty good actually. Easy fix for the most part. The first picture looks suspect. Maybe some hidden treasures under that under coating.
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76-914
post Apr 14 2013, 10:02 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Wire brush it to see what we have. Looks like some minor patches and a few holes to close.
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Steve
post Apr 14 2013, 10:23 PM
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QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Apr 14 2013, 08:58 PM) *

That looks pretty good actually. Easy fix for the most part. The first picture looks suspect. Maybe some hidden treasures under that under coating.

Thanks!! Actually the first picture is as bad as it looks. A while back before pulling the motor and battery tray, I wired brush this part down to bare metal. There was no rust, just this crack/rip in the metal. All I did at the time was spray paint it so the bare metal wouldn't start rusting.
I will have to use a smaller wire wheel, like my Dremel tool, to get between the seem on the inside. From what I can tell, I just need a new Engine Shelf and a patch where the hole/rip is at. The rest I could probably hammer back and weld back up after getting it down to bare metal. The holes in the wall were where the body shop bolted the battery tray to the wall.
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euro911
post Apr 15 2013, 12:34 AM
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Steve, is the engine shelf that bad, that it needs replaced? (pix don't show the entire shelf)
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MrHyde
post Apr 15 2013, 05:59 AM
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That coating under the paint may be hiding something. I would get that off with a wire wheel on a grinder first and then re-assess the situation. Can you get an overal picture? one that shows the battery tray, stand, engine shelf, inner fender and frame rail?
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carr914
post Apr 15 2013, 06:21 AM
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"Calling on all Hell Hole experts"

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ThePaintedMan
post Apr 15 2013, 07:11 AM
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I agree with most of the suggestions above. If I were you though, and I was looking to ensure that everything was solid here (and I wasn't going to have to do this again in a few months/years), I'd strip this whole area to bare metal. It might be easier to help diagnose if we had a bigger picture that shows the entire area.

Of particular concern is this area - it looks like a typical botched fiberglass patch:


Attached thumbnail(s)
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boogie_man
post Apr 15 2013, 02:26 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Strip the area all the way, then post pix. That doesn't look too bad......
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Steve
post Apr 15 2013, 03:04 PM
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Thanks everyone!! The soonest I can work on it again is this Saturday. I will strip the rest down and take some wider shots.
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r_towle
post Apr 16 2013, 12:59 AM
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I would spray more undercoating on it , replace the battery tray and drive it.

But, I am from the east land of rust.

Rich
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bare 1
post Apr 18 2013, 12:45 PM
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Yes to bare metal!!! Especially that snot in the lower left corner of the pic. Just finished my hell hole repair. Some of the stuff in that area looked good until I hit it with the welder , then it just vaporized. Bare metal then go at it with an ice pick and a small ballpeen hammer Pick and tap. You'll hear and feel the difference. Rust does'nt ring! Happy trails
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Steve
post Sep 2 2013, 08:45 PM
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Life keeps getting in the way, but finally worked on the beast some today.

Does anyone have some good pictures on how to prep and trim the engine shelf? I still need to trim the front of the engine shelf, from the previous repair.
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Here's some pictures of the new shelf.
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I removed all the fiberglass and cut out the rust below the battery. I now have a nice hole to spray some Eastwood rust encapsulation into.
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Inside of hole is just surface rust.
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Here's a large picture of the mess!!
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Sometimes I think I am over my head in this mess. Does anyone make house calls?? Otherwise I could put the axles back in and tow it somewhere.

Thanks in advance for the help!!!!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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malcolm2
post Sep 3 2013, 09:07 AM
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Don't give up, you are just getting to the fun part!
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OllieG
post Sep 3 2013, 11:23 AM
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QUOTE(carr914 @ Apr 15 2013, 01:21 PM) *

"Calling on all Hell Hole experts"

This Thread may set a Record for responses with that request (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If you've got a big motor and taking it racing you may want to beef up the suspension while you're at it. After lots of advice from the World that's what I did. I've just fit the kit from Tangerine which will strengthen the exact spot where you got the tear - right above the suspension console..

Stick at it..if I can do it 'you' can do it!! Good luck..
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Steve
post Sep 3 2013, 08:54 PM
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Thanks for the replies!! Never give up, never surrender!! I love that line. I don't trust my welding skills. My 20th wedding anniversary is next week. I will wait a couple of weeks and see how much money I have leftover and then pay someone to weld in the shelf, battery tray and scab plate over the crack. In the mean time I can clean and primer the other sections. To me it looks like the battery acid weekend the spot welds on the inner wheel well, which caused it to separate and crack. Running 255 series racing tires probably didn't help. They were rubbing on the inside when it separated. The lower crack was due to me removing the 4 banger motor mounts 25 years ago. I can't remember back that far, but I think there was surface rust around the passenger side motor mount, so I removed the sheet metal under the mount and didn't replace it, which weekend it and made it crack. I also removed the drivers side 4 banger mount, but I left the sheet metal underneath it. Everything on the drivers side looks perfect.
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Steve
post Sep 3 2013, 09:03 PM
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Here's a picture of the crack where the motor mount was. I need to drill the ends of the crack, weld it back up and then make a scab plate to cover it all.
Attached Image
The bottom is just an extended hole where the drain used to be.
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Jeff Hail
post Sep 3 2013, 10:11 PM
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QUOTE(Steve @ Sep 3 2013, 07:54 PM) *

Thanks for the replies!! Never give up, never surrender!! I love that line. I don't trust my welding skills. My 20th wedding anniversary is next week. I will wait a couple of weeks and see how much money I have leftover and then pay someone to weld in the shelf, battery tray and scab plate over the crack. In the mean time I can clean and primer the other sections. To me it looks like the battery acid weekend the spot welds on the inner wheel well, which caused it to separate and crack. Running 255 series racing tires probably didn't help. They were rubbing on the inside when it separated. The lower crack was due to me removing the 4 banger motor mounts 25 years ago. I can't remember back that far, but I think there was surface rust around the passenger side motor mount, so I removed the sheet metal under the mount and didn't replace it, which weekend it and made it crack. I also removed the drivers side 4 banger mount, but I left the sheet metal underneath it. Everything on the drivers side looks perfect.


Churchill so liked his brandy.

http://www.worldgathering.net/mp3/churchill_never.mp3
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Steve
post Nov 17 2013, 07:38 PM
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I finally gave up and reached out to Milt aka Zeke on the board.

Took two Saturday sessions, but Milt repaired my hell hole and gave me lots of tips along the way.
1. Cut out and grind-ed old repairs.
2. Made scab plate for bottom missing sheet metal on long under battery. (used to be the 4 cylinder motor mount).
3. Fabricated another plate below the battery and welded it in.
4. Trimmed and fitted the Restoration Design engine shelf.
5. Installed Battery Tray
6. Other rust repair and clean up.

All that's left now is to grind the welds, prime, seal and paint the area.

Thanks everyone for recommending Milt. I highly recommend him. He saved me tons of time. He was a pleasure to work with and I learned so much by watching him work. He taught me how to setup my welder, proper use of tools, etc.
He also makes house calls if you don't live to far away.

Here is a picture of the area he fixed. Sorry for the crappy iPhone shot. I still need to grind some of the welds, prime, seal and paint the area. After that I can finally put my six back in.
Attached Image
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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mepstein
post Nov 18 2013, 06:52 AM
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Congrats. Your engine will be in a happy place.
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