Half axle removal, How to dislodge the outer ends? Options

[PDXMike]

I need to remove the half axles so I can tow my motor less car. I have all of the bolts out, but I can't get the outer joints to separate. When I did the transmission ends I used a screwdriver to pry them apart. At the outer end I can't get anything inside the swing arm to do the prying.

I'm very tempted to just use the axle as a slide hammer to pull itself out, but that seems like a bad idea.

I'm supposed to have this thing at the shop first thing tomorrow morning.

Thanks!

[bandjoey]

From what I've read. With axles off, the wheel and hub will roll out when going down the street. There are connectors for sale to join the 2 axles together.

Hopefully someone that knows for sure will jump in.

[McMark]

You can pull the outer stub axle. Or you can try, installing the bolts part way (not tight/touching) and tap with a hammer using the socket like a punch. Obviously the stub axle is not going to move, but the shock and vibration may loosen things up.

[ThePaintedMan]

Here is a thread discussing the issue with some of the most knowledgeable guys here weighing in:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=193216&hl=

As McMark suggested, if there are wheels that are on the car which will allow you to break the hub nut loose, you can pull the stub axle out on both sides, then separate the axles from the stubs. BUT do NOT tow it without them back in and tightened back down. You'll ruin the bearings if you do.

If you only need to get it a few blocks, you might be able to zip-tie or coat-hanger the axles up and out of the way, but it's risky. I made it home with my car like that, but only because I didn't know that the PO had unbolted the inner CVs! The exhaust supported the axles, but they clanged around and bent the bolts which were still in the CVs. Luckily it didnt tear into the transmission.

[PDXMike]

That thread makes it sound like I can remove the outer CV's but leave the stubs in place. I thought that meant removing the 12 point screws and pulling the flange apart, like I did on the transmission end. if the stub is in place, the back of the bearing is supported and I can tow.

Am I reading that wrong? Does "removing the CV joint" NOT mean removing the 4 x 12–point bolts?

[jcd914]

You're correct, removing the outer CV while leaving the stub axle in place is possible but not always easy.
Once the CVs & axle out, with the stub axle in place (and tight) you can tow the car.

After you have the 12pt bolts out you have to get the roll pins to come loose.
You can take the stub axle out and seperate the CV from the stub axle.
I usually would use the axle as a lever, pulling on the inner joint until the axle binds the outer joint and starts it pulling loose. It only takes a couple shots to get the joint seperated. I have been quite forceful in doing this and never damaged a joint or axle.

Jim

[ThePaintedMan]

As Jim said Mike, it is possible to remove the outer joint from the stub axle flange without removing the stub axle itself. However, if the roll pins have rusted into the stub axle, simply removing the 4 x 12pt bolts may not do it. Especially since there is little room to get a whole lot of leverage and "hammer action" laterally by slamming the axle assembly toward the transmission. If you have the transmission out though, you might have more luck. Like Jim, this worked once for me, but the other side did not.

What we're suggesting is that you can alternatively remove the hub nut through the wheel, then remove the whole axle/stub assembly. Then separate the outer CV joint from the stub axle, then reinstall the stub axle and nut. This is often even harder to do though, since the stub axle is held on with 250 ft-lbs + whatever ft-lbs of rust is adding to it. Many have broken breaker bars trying, but it is another option for you.

[356'er]

I would avoid removing the stub axle, you may damage the bearing, it may also be rusted to the bearing, for me it was and the stub axel wasn't easy out and only a little easier going back in.

I did remove the outer CV recently and to get it apart I put a couple of a bolt diameter sized punches (they are longer and provide some leverage) in two of the holes where the bolts were on the outer CV and as gently as possible worked them back and forth, alternating with the other two holes to get a crack started between the CV and the stub axle. Once the crack opens up enough you could use something "L" shaped to stick in the gap and help lever the pieces apart, again alternating around the CV and being as gentle as possible. I had a Harbor Freight mini pry war that did the trick and didn't scar either surface.

Good luck -hope you make it.

Jonathan

[PDXMike]

So my options are:

Get creative/lucky and find a way to leverage the CV's off the likely rusty roll pins

-or-

Remove the stub axle, separate the CV joint, re-install the stub axle

-or-

Tie the axles, roll it out to the street and call a flatbed

I'll give it another try tonight. Thanks!

[TheCabinetmaker]

Option #3 is by far your best and safest bet.

[McMark]

Get creative/lucky and find a way to leverage the CV's off the likely rusty roll pins

Probably not rusty. Lots of grease in that area. But that's how tight ALL the roll pins used to be. The outers just don't get used as much so they stay 'fresh'.

Anyway, how'd it go?

[PDXMike]

No luck so far, but I really didn't have a plan of attack last night and wanted to quit before I did something stupid out of frustration.

I'll call the shop as soon as they open this morning and see if I can re-schedule. Hopefully it won't mess them up too bad. I'll give it another go tonight.

Probably my time would be better spent adjusting my budget to deal with the towing (there and back) than spending too much more time try to save a few bucks. Even us cheapskates need to know when to quit I guess.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Yep. your have to consider what your time is worth. I get paid 50 per hr to build cabinets, it makes no sense for me to dig a ditch that I can have dug for 10 an hour.

[rwilner]

FWIW...I did the stub axle nut remove/install when I did my CV refresh because of the exact same issue. It will be hard to get the assembly out if your transmission is installed, especially on the driver's side because of the starter motor etc, but you can do it.

If you choose to tackle this, make sure you're in your happy place when you start and your wife won't be calling you in for dinner in 1/2 hr.