It's running better..., Much better, Well even!! Options

[Bob L.]

After 10 months of cleaning, freshening and installing my donor motor, among other upgrades and repairs, I finally got the key turned and it started right up. Yippee for me!!

I have not let it run for long (exhaust leak) but it starts right up every time so far. Idle is at about 1850-1900 from a cold start. Is that normal? It's about 80 degrees out.

The main issue is that when I give it gas, it stalls.

I'm sure the timing must need adjusting.

The basics,
76 2.0 with stock D-jet in a 73(originally a 1.7)
EGR and air injection are gone.

Any suggestions where I should start?

It's nice to be able to consult so many experts all at one time.
Thanks all.

[914itis]

You may have a vaccum leak , chek for leaks. It should run lower at 80 degrees wheater. The norm is 900 rpm

[r_towle]

Replace all rubber vacuum lines
Replace all rubber fuel lines
Replace points, distributor cap, plugs and wires
Set valve to clearance when cold
Set dwell after that
Set timing last

[Bob L.]

Replace all rubber vacuum lines
Replace all rubber fuel lines
Replace points, distributor cap, plugs and wires
Set valve to clearance when cold
Set dwell after that
Set timing last

All vac hoses are new
All fuel lines were replaced, SS lines in tunnel.
Valves were set cold.

Still have old cap/wires.
I have not tried to set timing/dwell.

I haven't tried the idle screw yet, but that wouldn't cause the stalling, would it?

[Bob L.]

Update...

Vacuum leak.
I could feel the air rushing past my hand at the stacked F connector.

I think I fixed that. I'll try it again in the AM.

I still have to deal with timing and dwell.

[Bob L.]

O.K. the idle is now on the low side, around 400-500 RPM, and it's harder to start.

Idle seems "weak". Turning the idle screw doesn't seem to have much effect. I can make it stall if I go too low, but I can't seem to get it above 500RPM. It also doesn't seem to respond to throttle input too well. Slow to rev up or down.

I haven't touched the adjustment screw on the ECU yet. I'm confident that there are no Vacuum leaks.

Dwell and timing are still at their old settings. It ran fine when I got it.\

Is dwell/timing my next step or should I check something else first?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Bob L.]

I have some new info.

I pulled the plugs to reset the gaps and looking at the tips, I see a big difference between the 1-2 side Vs. 3-4. I don't know squat about reading plugs so I offer up some pic's for the experts...

Plug 1


Plug 2


Plug 3


Plug 4


There doesn't seem to be much going on in Cyl's 1&2. I'm not sure what to make of 3&4.
It smells rich in general.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[rick 918-S]

Replace the cap, rotor and wires. Recheck the valves, then the dwell.

If you haven't touched the timing and the car was running when stored it would be safe to assume the timing is good. It doesn't move itself. Don't mess with the ECU screw either. That doesn't move itself either.

Things that change are vacuum leaks, wires fail, caps carbon track, points wear, injectors get plugged, MPS fail, TPS fail and a few other things. But dizzy timing shouldn't change unless it was fudged from the P.O. Same with the ECU.

[r_towle]

Valves and dwell affect timing.

Car will run so much better if you do a proper tune up.

[Bob L.]

OK, I replaced the points, Cap and rotor. Wires and condenser had to be ordered. The old parts look pretty new.
While working on setting the dwell angle I noticed that it ran better with the dwell between 24-36. At times it sounded pretty healthy (to my untrained ear).
When I adjusted the dwell to the recommended 45-50, it barely ran and was rough.
I know dwell affects timing so should I leave it in the 45-50 range and work on the timing?

Also, I noticed that some adjustments resulted in no dwell reading at all. Is that normal? Way too big or small an angle?

I've never done this before so thanks for the help.

[jmill]

Handy dandy chart.

[Bob L.]

Progress bump.

It's been a banner day! I lowered the front end off of the jack stands and DROVE IT off the ramps. I managed a few runs up and down the block.

I have been working on the dwell, Got it right at 47-8 degrees. It was running pretty rough though. I was trying to adjust the timing by ear And got it to idle pretty well, but finally borrowed a light and that's where I came up with some new questions.

After researching how to set the timing I read about "0" marks and red lines on the impeller fan to indicate TDC for #1 and 27 degrees BTDC respectively. I also read that the timing at idle should be at the 27 degree mark. I later read that I should set the timing while the engine is running at 3500+RPM to have the mechanical advance fully engaged. If I start at the red line, What is there to indicate the correct timing at 3500 RPM? Also what is the fully advanced setting for the timing at 3500+ RPM?
Is any of this info wrong? What am I missing?

The main (and possibly related) question is why it hesitates/bogs at about 2500 RPM. Sometimes it would run to 3000 and drop back to 2500, where it seems to get stuck. I can add throttle and it will bog a bit until I add enough gas, then it jumps up to 5500 and would go higher if I didn't let off. sometimes it seemed fine if I accelerated quickly through 3000.
Maybe Getting the timing dialed in will help this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

What say ya'll?

[Dave_Darling]

The timing is 27 deg BTDC at 3500 RPM.

In theory, 27 deg BTDC is where the red mark (or just plain notch) on the fan is.

Timing at idle will be much closer to TDC, but not zero.

Set it at 3500 RPM to where the red notch is. Check the Pelican tech article on the subject, it has pictures to help.

--DD

[Bob L.]

Hi guys, thanks for sticking with me.
The tune up has been done!

I got the dwell at 47-8 and the timing is set where the red mark hovers in the notch at 3500 rpm.
It took me a while to get them set, first timer and all. The idle was lower today than the other day when I got the timing set. It started easily enough but idle low and lumpy. I adjusted it up to 8-900rpm and it sounded better.

I still have the hesitation/bogging at about 2500rpm. it seems to go up to 2500ish and then settle back to about 2100 and it starts to puff like it wants to backfire a bit while I give it more gas until it starts to surge quickly. That's when I let up before it over-revs

I took a Pic of the TPS. It doesn't look too bad to me, but someone may be able to tell better than me. Here it is


What should I check next? Would it help if I posted a video with sound?

[Bob L.]

I want to check my TPS reports.

Is there a reference/article for the correct probe placement and Ohm readings when testing the TPS.

[Dave_Darling]

Here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ttle_switch.htm

--DD

[Bob L.]

Here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ttle_switch.htm

--DD

Thanks, I'll do that.

I thought I saw someone else had tested each individual circuit on the board for resistance levels at different points on the contacts.
Sound familiar to anyone?

[Dave_Darling]

There's no resistance on this particular part. Things are either connected (close to 0 ohms), or disconnected (infinite ohms). You may be thinking of the air flow meter in the 1.8's L-jet, perhaps?

--DD

[Bob L.]

There's no resistance on this particular part. Things are either connected (close to 0 ohms), or disconnected (infinite ohms). You may be thinking of the air flow meter in the 1.8's L-jet, perhaps?

--DD

Perhaps.

[Bob L.]

O.K.! The TPS is adjusted.

It did help the anemic idle. My main issue, The stumble at 2500ish RPM, persists. I add throttle add it starts to sound like it's straining a little and no extra power. If I blip it quickly it will jump and get past the issue (not driving), but if try to accelerate smoothly (driving or in neutral) it gets hung up there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I can feel there is some power there trying to get out.

What's next?!