New engine rebuild running hot, Running Hot Options

[57lincolnman]

Recently completed rebuild of 1.8L and it's running too hot. Oil temps climb to 230 with only about 10 minutes running. It doesn't matter how the engine is loaded. Items to consider: 1) case cleaned and checked for alignment; 2) LN pistons installed at 96mm with new Nickie cylinders; 3) cylinder heads (1.8L) cleaned and set for 8.25:1; 4) new connecting rods; 5) push rods check out OK; 6) car did not previously have thermostat or cooling flaps, so these were installed. Thermostat opens as it should at 180; 7) Air/fuel ratio is 12-14 and within spec; 8) engine timing within spec; 8) mild cam upgrade. 9) crankshaft and flywheel were balanced; 10) all engine tin is in place

Could it be that the engine cooling flaps are not working or reversed? All thoughts and commentary are welcome. This one has us baffled.

[billh1963]

Recently completed rebuild of 1.8L and it's running too hot. Oil temps climb to 230 with only about 10 minutes running. It doesn't matter how the engine is loaded. Items to consider: 1) case cleaned and checked for alignment; 2) LN pistons installed at 96mm with new Nickie cylinders; 3) cylinder heads (1.8L) cleaned and set for 8.25:1; 4) new connecting rods; 5) push rods check out OK; 6) car did not previously have thermostat or cooling flaps, so these were installed. Thermostat opens as it should at 180; 7) Air/fuel ratio is 12-14 and within spec; 8) engine timing within spec; 8) mild cam upgrade. 9) crankshaft and flywheel were balanced; 10) all engine tin is in place

Could it be that the engine cooling flaps are not working or reversed? All thoughts and commentary are welcome. This one has us baffled.

Are you actually driving it or is that sitting still?


Cooling flaps fail open...that should be easy to check.

[timothy_nd28]

Carb, or the original FI?

[Jake Raby]

I have NEVER had any thermal control issues with a Nickies engine! That includes 280HP N/A T4 based engines running in Florida sumer heat.

You have something misconfigured, mis-tuned or some weird variable thats creating this issue.

[r_towle]

Sensor and gauge match?

[JStroud]

You list mild cam upgrade, and list "push rods check out ok"
Did you do the valve train geometry when you built the motor, or just use the stock push rods with the new cam? New lifters? Check bearing clearances?
Oil pressure ok?

Jeff

[mrbubblehead]

what weight engine oil? could be high oil pressure is bypassing the oil cooler.

[brant]

The cooling flaps linkage can easily get over extended on install...
causing them to not function the way they were designed and not fail open...

I'd take a look at the flaps for sure

[57lincolnman]

Recently completed rebuild of 1.8L and it's running too hot. Oil temps climb to 230 with only about 10 minutes running. It doesn't matter how the engine is loaded. Items to consider: 1) case cleaned and checked for alignment; 2) LN pistons installed at 96mm with new Nickie cylinders; 3) cylinder heads (1.8L) cleaned and set for 8.25:1; 4) new connecting rods; 5) push rods check out OK; 6) car did not previously have thermostat or cooling flaps, so these were installed. Thermostat opens as it should at 180; 7) Air/fuel ratio is 12-14 and within spec; 8) engine timing within spec; 8) mild cam upgrade. 9) crankshaft and flywheel were balanced; 10) all engine tin is in place

Could it be that the engine cooling flaps are not working or reversed? All thoughts and commentary are welcome. This one has us baffled.

Are you actually driving it or is that sitting still?


Cooling flaps fail open...that should be easy to check.

This is while driving the car. It will stay at about 180 for the first ten minutes of driving. It will climb steadily to 230 and hold there. Oil pressure at 3400 rpm is around 10-12 psi. At idle oil pressure light will come on once fully warmed up.

[57lincolnman]

Carb, or the original FI?

This is L-tronic 1.8L for 75. Sorry I meant to include that in the initial write-up.

['73-914kid]

10-12 psi at 3400rpm is the things nightmares are made of.. the norm should be 10psi for every 1000 rpm.

I vote the cooling flaps are stuck closed, not allowing any air over the oil cooler..

[timothy_nd28]

what oil are you using? It could also be a bearing with excessive clearance. Did you line up the dowel pins on the case with the holes in each bearing?

[57lincolnman]

I have NEVER had any thermal control issues with a Nickies engine! That includes 280HP N/A T4 based engines running in Florida sumer heat.

You have something misconfigured, mis-tuned or some weird variable thats creating this issue.

Thanks Jake. It is reassuring to know that the Nickies is a well engineered and highly regarded product. Could it be that I have a mismatch in the crankshaft and cam? The previous owner did a mild upgrade on the cam (WebCam) but I can't recall which one it is. He also modified the crankshaft for to 2.0 spec.

[57lincolnman]

Sensor and gauge match?

This was the same set-up that I had before the engine rebuild. At that time oil temps and pressure were reasonable (occasional high of 220) with oil pressure at high speeds in the 25-35 psi range. I have a calibrated oil temp gauge from a 911 that was part of gauge rebuild by Palo Alto Speedo. So, I think there's a match there between sensor and gauge.

[57lincolnman]

You list mild cam upgrade, and list "push rods check out ok"
Did you do the valve train geometry when you built the motor, or just use the stock push rods with the new cam? New lifters? Check bearing clearances?
Oil pressure ok?

Jeff

Thanks for your response. We spent an entire day checking out the valve train geometry. We ended up using the stock push rods because everything checked out within spec. I will need to follow-up on the bearing clearances. That is a good point. Oil pressure is NOT OK. At 65-70 mph I'm getting 10-12 psi. Not good. Oil pressure comes on at idle when the engine is warmed up.

[57lincolnman]

what weight engine oil? could be high oil pressure is bypassing the oil cooler.

Good point. I need to check with engine builder as to what he is using. I know that it is a Brad Penn racing oil that he's using to break in the engine. I'll get back to you.

[57lincolnman]

what weight engine oil? could be high oil pressure is bypassing the oil cooler.

Good point. I need to check with engine builder as to what he is using. I know that it is a Brad Penn racing oil that he's using to break in the engine. I'll get back to you.

[57lincolnman]

what oil are you using? It could also be a bearing with excessive clearance. Did you line up the dowel pins on the case with the holes in each bearing?

I will check with engine builder and get back to you. This seems plausible.

[timothy_nd28]

Time being, you can adjust your air flow meter to make things run richer. I had to do this when upgrading to a 1.9.

[mrbubblehead]

what weight engine oil? could be high oil pressure is bypassing the oil cooler.

Good point. I need to check with engine builder as to what he is using. I know that it is a Brad Penn racing oil that he's using to break in the engine. I'll get back to you.

many believe they HAVE to run 50 wt. which all they are doing is creating heat and throwing away horsepower. you should taylor your oil weight to your psi and rpm. this is with full group 4 or group 5 (ester) synthetics. i think the bypass spring is set up for around 46 psi. racer chris or jake would know exactly. anyways when you are at high rpm, oil pressure is high esspecially with thicker oil. the engine goes into protection mode and bypasses the oil cooler to protect it. high pressure = resistance and heat. lower oil pressure = more flow. (too a point)