knicking reverse Options

[rjames]

Hopefully this is the last chapter my 'shifting improvement' series.

Post trans rebuild and bushing replacements, the car shifts pretty darn good except that it's too easy to nick reverse. I've done too many times it when shifting from 1st to 2nd and when trying to downshift into 2nd.

I realized yesterday that I can get into reverse and 1st easily without having to put any extra effort into moving the shifter to the left. Before adjusting the shifter I remember having to put a little effor into getting it over that far.

Does the overall amount of resistance that should be felt from the springs get affected by where the shifter is in relation to it's connection to the bar going through the firewall? In other words, if I adjust the shifter such that I have to move it farther to the left to get it into 1st or reverse, will that force more tension on the springs?

Did I explain that in english? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

Understood. I doubt the position of the adjustment will give the spring any more or less tension. That said, there are some aftermarket springs out there with more tension.

[rjames]

Understood. I doubt the position of the adjustment will give the spring any more or less tension. That said, there are some aftermarket springs out there with more tension.

Maybe I should be looking for a new lockout plate, too? (I think that's what it's called- need to find a diagram...)

[rhodyguy]

reverse lock out plate. #901 424 017 00. check for wear on the bottom of the shift lever at the contact point.

[toolguy]

Sounds like you need to rotate the adjustment one spline over at the firewall joint.

[r_towle]

flip the shifter into neutral.
Which gate are you in?
r-1
2-3
4-5

When the rotation is correct (and it sounds like your is not) you will always land in the 2-3 gate when flipped into neutral.
You need to push it to r-1 or 4-5

How I do it...
Grab the wifes white nail polish.
Mark the rod where it goes into the front coupler at the shifter.
Now you know where that is right...you should never see unpainted metal.

Scratch a mark on both the top of the rod and the top of the coupler.

Now, looking forward, rotate the rod clockwise one tooth at a time...which it a tiny amount...less than 1/16 if an inch.
Lock it down and try it.
Come back and do a bit more.

I typically do this with the rear access plate removed and a pair of vice grips and a socket wrench with me.
From the rear access plate, use the vice grips to hold the rod.
Use the socket to loosed it.

With the paint marks and scratches, its easy to see.
Its a drive and adjust thing....takes a few times and you will be all done.


Rich

[aircooledtechguy]

flip the shifter into neutral.
Which gate are you in?
r-1
2-3
4-5

When the rotation is correct (and it sounds like your is not) you will always land in the 2-3 gate when flipped into neutral.
You need to push it to r-1 or 4-5

How I do it...
Grab the wifes white nail polish.
Mark the rod where it goes into the front coupler at the shifter.
Now you know where that is right...you should never see unpainted metal.

Scratch a mark on both the top of the rod and the top of the coupler.

Now, looking forward, rotate the rod clockwise one tooth at a time...which it a tiny amount...less than 1/16 if an inch.
Lock it down and try it.
Come back and do a bit more.

I typically do this with the rear access plate removed and a pair of vice grips and a socket wrench with me.
From the rear access plate, use the vice grips to hold the rod.
Use the socket to loosed it.

With the paint marks and scratches, its easy to see.
Its a drive and adjust thing....takes a few times and you will be all done.


Rich

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Sounds like you just need to slightly re-adjust the shifter on the shift rod.

[Dr Evil]

As long as the rod, plate, and springs are in good order, place the trans in 2 or 3 and then adjust so your shifter is pressing against the spring plate. This should resolve your problem.