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> Throttle sticking - Fixed thanks to the World, Could this be the distributor?
wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 04:19 PM
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I checked the throttle cable and I can see it is not wrapped.

All the linkage seems fine, and I have the idle screws all the way out.

I am even running an extra spring on the throttle bar to ensure that I get full return.

Nothing seems to be binding.

I am running an old original distributor with the injection point set removed, and the vacum advance disabled.

Am I wasting time chasing throttle cable functions or is it just the stinking distributor?
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Mike Bellis
post Nov 16 2013, 05:58 PM
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Is your throttle cable too tight? On some cars, like mine, if the cable was pulled tight like you would think it should be, the throttle would stick. Additionally, if it was too tight, the clutch pedal moving would change the rpm. It was not wrapped around the clutch cable either. I think it was due to how the two tubes were welded in the tunnel relative to each other. Not all 914's are built equal.
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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 06:12 PM
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Thanks Mike, but I backed it off a bit and it still isn't right.
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r_towle
post Nov 16 2013, 06:16 PM
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Explain, with pics, how you disabled the vacuum advance on the distributor.
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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 06:27 PM
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Without pics,

I took it off the board and pulled it out the side!
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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 06:43 PM
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Like this

Do you need this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Attached Image

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
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Mike Bellis
post Nov 16 2013, 06:48 PM
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If the plate is moving inside the dizzy, it could act like a throttle sticking with idle jumping up and down.
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r_towle
post Nov 16 2013, 06:51 PM
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Advance plates can stick
Improperly mounted points with a screw too long can bind the advance plates
Petronix can bind the advance plates.

All may cause high idle.
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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 06:58 PM
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I think I will go back to trying to get the Unilite to work. I have been putting it off because I have to reindex the drive and I was avoiding that.
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Dave_Darling
post Nov 16 2013, 06:59 PM
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When you say that the throttle is sticking, do you mean that the idle RPM is too high, or that the throttle pedal doesn't come all the way back up?

If the former, check for vacuum leaks.

If the latter, try to isolate the problem. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body. Does it still stick? Disconnect it from the pedal. Does it stick? Check just the throttle body. Does it close all the way?

Isolate the problem. When you have it down to one or two systems, you can check them in detail.

Note that the bores in the throttle body where the valve pivots ride can and do wear. That sometimes gives you a sticking throttle. Heavy springs will tend to exacerbate the wear.

--DD
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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 07:01 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 16 2013, 07:59 PM) *

When you say that the throttle is sticking, do you mean that the idle RPM is too high, or that the throttle pedal doesn't come all the way back up?

It starts out with a decent idle but when I blip the throttle it seams to stay up. When I drive down the road, by the time I get to my turn around, its up about 3000 rpm.

If the former, check for vacuum leaks.

No Vacuum

If the latter, try to isolate the problem. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body. Does it still stick? Disconnect it from the pedal. Does it stick? Check just the throttle body. Does it close all the way?

Isolate the problem. When you have it down to one or two systems, you can check them in detail.

Note that the bores in the throttle body where the valve pivots ride can and do wear. That sometimes gives you a sticking throttle. Heavy springs will tend to exacerbate the wear.

New Carbs, should not be any wear.



--DD
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Mike Bellis
post Nov 16 2013, 07:07 PM
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Dave meant to check for vacuum leaks at the carb mounting gaskets. A vacuum leak under the carbs will raise the idle. It's easy to find with some carb cleaner. With the engine running, spray some cleaner at the base of the carbs and manifolds. if the idle changes, you have a leak.
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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 07:09 PM
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QUOTE(Mike Bellis @ Nov 16 2013, 08:07 PM) *

Dave meant to check for vacuum leaks at the carb mounting gaskets. A vacuum leak under the carbs will raise the idle. It's easy to find with some carb cleaner. With the engine running, spray some cleaner at the base of the carbs and manifolds. if the idle changes, you have a leak.



I will try that. Thank you.
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r_towle
post Nov 16 2013, 07:14 PM
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Oh....

How is the gas pedal itself?
It also has a spring in it....I found it was an important part of the spring back tension...

Meaning, if the spring is rusted out and the pedal won't pull back towards the driver all by itself, it adds to much tension to the cable...
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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 07:19 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Nov 16 2013, 08:14 PM) *

Oh....

How is the gas pedal itself?
It also has a spring in it....I found it was an important part of the spring back tension...

Meaning, if the spring is rusted out and the pedal won't pull back towards the driver all by itself, it adds to much tension to the cable...



I'm really thinking thats it. I oiled it but it doesn't feel smooth. I have a new one around here somewhere. I think I will try that out. I
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r_towle
post Nov 16 2013, 07:22 PM
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Pull the rod out of the back of the pedal.
Does the pedal stand up on its own?
Like Viagra?

If not, the spring in the bottom may be junk..
It's just a piece of spring steel that is the same piece that get bolted to the floor.
It's also part of the spring back system...

that was a long time ago for me....ten or more years ago that I chased that weird one down....so YMMV
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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 07:33 PM
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You are probably right.

Figures the one part on the car I didn't replace.

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JamesM
post Nov 16 2013, 10:16 PM
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QUOTE(wndsnd @ Nov 16 2013, 05:43 PM) *


If you pulled the vacuum can and didn't do anything to lock the plate it will be free to move. You need to either lock the advance plate somehow or re-attach the vacuum can to the place and just leave the no vacuum lines hooked up, this will at least hold the plate in place.

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wndsnd
post Nov 16 2013, 10:25 PM
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QUOTE(JamesM @ Nov 16 2013, 11:16 PM) *

QUOTE(wndsnd @ Nov 16 2013, 05:43 PM) *


If you pulled the vacuum can and didn't do anything to lock the plate it will be free to move. You need to either lock the advance plate somehow or re-attach the vacuum can to the place and just leave the no vacuum lines hooked up, this will at least hold the plate in place.


If plate floats on its own then idle would fluctuate?

I was trying for no advanve initially. Sound like a good thing to check. It could be rotating on its own

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euro911
post Nov 16 2013, 11:11 PM
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Aside from the other suggestions, I would reinstall the vacuum advance unit and run a hose from the advance port into a vacuum port on one of the carbs (you don't need to connect to both carbs, one is adequate).
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