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> doing rms and clutch - (update-done), **new question-about flywheel markings**,
DRPHIL914
post Jan 11 2014, 05:53 PM
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Dr. Phil
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**new question, the mark on the flywheel was in the down position when removed, so i marked the new one same location upon installation- so for doing valves and timing, what position is this in now, 180 off of the #1TDC?








New flywheel is not marked for Tdc and it does not have the dowels/pins to align and mount the clutch to. Can I mount it with out these.?


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DRPHIL914
post Jan 11 2014, 05:54 PM
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Here is the old bearing-flywheel bearing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)


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Dave_Darling
post Jan 11 2014, 11:12 PM
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You need the dowels. They take the rotational stress of the pressure plate. I am not sure the bolts by themselves are strong enough, and I am sure they are not precise enough.

--DD
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Mark Henry
post Jan 11 2014, 11:40 PM
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Another thing I have noticed on the new flywheel being sold as German OE is I don't see a single drill mark for balancing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

I have a hard time believing that they are popping out perfectly balanced flywheels
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jan 12 2014, 12:34 AM
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The dowel pins knock out from the back. Use a good punch and bang away at 'em. You need then to properly locate the pressure plate on the f/w. You can live without the TDC mark, or add it once the f/w is installed using the fan TDC mark as a guide. Note, do NOT use the full advance mark!

The Cap'n
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dangrouche
post Jan 12 2014, 12:34 AM
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you should get a flat punch and be able to drive them out of the old flywheel in less than five minutes
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 12 2014, 06:25 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 12 2014, 12:40 AM) *

Another thing I have noticed on the new flywheel being sold as German OE is I don't see a single drill mark for balancing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

I have a hard time believing that they are popping out perfectly balanced flywheels


I npotuced right away the they are not identical , not having all the holes that the original one had.

But I got it mounted last night along with the pressure plate and transmission is back in. Thanks for the advice.

Response was a. It sloe last night and I wanted to get it put back together , with the help of billh1963, thanks bill for the guidance, I got it done.

All new . Hope its all done right. Has to be better than it was. Based in previous owner paperwork I m ow the clutch had been replaced about 1995 . Figured with 140k miles it could use it , it was slipping but that might have been partly due to oil fro leaking RMS.

Now , looking forward to new brakes next week and test drive!
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 23 2014, 10:02 AM
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so i will be replacing the pushrod tubes and seals if my new viton seals come in today, and was reading up on the valve adjustment proceedure, - if my flywheel tdc mark is in the down position that is 180 degrees off of the #1 TDC position correct? in which case i should turn it to the top location, and distributor should line up with the edge mark there too, correct? and from there i can begin my procedure of adjusting vavles?

if this is not correct please advise, this will be first time setting valve clearance and it will need to be done after taking out the stuff to do the tubes and seals
thanks.


QUOTE(Philip W. @ Jan 11 2014, 06:53 PM) *

new question, the mark on the flywheel was in the down position when removed, so i marked the new one same location upon installation- so for doing valves and timing, what position is this in now, 180 off of the #1TDC?

New flywheel is not marked for Tdc and it does not have the dowels/pins to align and mount the clutch to. Can I mount it with out these.?

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