center tunnel strength |
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center tunnel strength |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 11:56 AM
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#1
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
I am wondering how strong the center tunnel is. after seam welding and the inner long kit, would it be ok to cut the top off for access panels? they will be replaced with aluminum panels fastened with rivnuts and 5mm screws. im leaving most of shifter sheet metal to keep the shifter solid. you can see from the pictures what i intend to cut out. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i722.photobucket.com-12492-1392659784.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i722.photobucket.com-12492-1392659784.2.jpg) |
Old Yella |
Feb 17 2014, 12:20 PM
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#2
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Old Yella Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 2-July 13 From: Canberra Australia Member No.: 16,086 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Aluminium and steel react causing both metals to corrode when in contact with each other.
I've always wondered about Aluminium floor boards and for that reason haven't bought them. |
bulitt |
Feb 17 2014, 01:00 PM
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#3
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Achtzylinder Group: Members Posts: 4,188 Joined: 2-October 11 Member No.: 13,632 Region Association: South East States |
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CptTripps |
Feb 17 2014, 01:04 PM
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#4
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:: Punch and Pie :: Group: Members Posts: 3,584 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Mentor, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Interesting idea. Looks like you'll lose the post that's needed for the pedal board mount though.
I can't imagine that's one of the most structurally necessary pieces of the 914 puzzle. Never hear that about aluminium and steel. Maybe if you have a rubber grommit in there somehow? |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 01:14 PM
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#5
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
ya, thats where my idea came from. at first i thought about doing dimple died holes, to add the strength back, but the more i thought about it i dont want to have to clean out all the crap that fall down in there. thats when i thought about removing more sheet metal and replacing them with aluminum panels.
there are a few reasons for doing this. i want to blast all the rust out of there. i am going to run my wiring harness thru there instead of my fuel lines, so access would be nice. and i want to reinforce the clutch tube. i am trying to get everything done i can think of before paint. there is nothing worse the cutting and welding on fresh paint. old yella, im not really worried about electrolysis. both surfaces will be painted. |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 01:17 PM
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#6
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
Interesting idea. Looks like you'll lose the post that's needed for the pedal board mount though. I can't imagine that's one of the most structurally necessary pieces of the 914 puzzle. Never hear that about aluminium and steel. Maybe if you have a rubber grommit in there somehow? capt, i dont use a pedal board.... i know on a beetle the tunnel is the back bone of the pan. that why im concerned. just dont want to make a mistake i will regret down the road. |
SirAndy |
Feb 17 2014, 02:13 PM
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#7
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,675 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
capt, i dont use a pedal board.... That seems like a bad idea ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) As for the access holes, can you bend the edges around the holes to give it a bit more strength? If you look at the stamped holes from the factory, they usually have a few mm deep flange. With the outer long kit, you'll probably be fine ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
worn |
Feb 17 2014, 02:20 PM
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#8
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,162 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I am wondering how strong the center tunnel is. after seam welding and the inner long kit, would it be ok to cut the top off for access panels? they will be replaced with aluminum panels fastened with rivnuts and 5mm screws. im leaving most of shifter sheet metal to keep the shifter solid. you can see from the pictures what i intend to cut out. In most cars this is a major part for strength. Porsche thoughts so because they chose to make it a box beam, which provides strength at minimum weight. Your cutouts will have less effect on strength if you roll the edges and make no sharp corners, space them and then find a way to tighten the cover plate down so it cannot slide. In a wet environment aluminum will fall in love with steel, especially in threads. It makes an oxide that means all the threads go somewhere out of this universe to a thread heaven. Oil will keep it from happening though. I found that you can buy steel flanged tube nuts, drill a hole and tack weld them. I think the major complaint with rivnuts is actually when you cannot get to the back, you have the fastener in place, and they decide to spin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . There are precautions you can take that will minimize that. Nice work. |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 02:36 PM
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#9
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
my drawings dont show them, but all of the angles will have a 1" radius where two cuts intersect. there will not be any sharp corners where the cuts are made. the way i figured is that as long as i stay on top of the tunnel and keep off the rolled edge i would be ok. im assuming the strength is in the rolled edge.
as far as rolling the edge of my cuts, thats a great idea, but not sure how to accomplish this. dont tube nuts need to be welded from the back side? the reason for using rivnuts is, to get access panel as close to flush with the top of the tunnel as possible. and if one should spin, i could either tighten it up or just drill it out and replace it. |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 02:37 PM
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#10
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
capt, i dont use a pedal board.... That seems like a bad idea ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) As for the access holes, can you bend the edges around the holes to give it a bit more strength? If you look at the stamped holes from the factory, they usually have a few mm deep flange. With the outer long kit, you'll probably be fine ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) i havnt used a pedal board in any of my cars in years..... |
SirAndy |
Feb 17 2014, 03:58 PM
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#11
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,675 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
i havnt used a pedal board in any of my cars in years..... That doesn't make it any better. They are there for a reason. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
Cap'n Krusty |
Feb 17 2014, 04:32 PM
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#12
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Without the pedal board, what do you use for pedal stops? Gotta have 'em, one to keep the throttle cable from too much strain, the other to keep the clutch cover plate from going over center ......................
The Cap'n |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 05:33 PM
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#13
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
Without the pedal board, what do you use for pedal stops? Gotta have 'em, one to keep the throttle cable from too much strain, the other to keep the clutch cover plate from going over center ...................... The Cap'n a threaded plastic deal on the end of the clutch pedal. and throttle stops on the carbs. |
SirAndy |
Feb 17 2014, 05:37 PM
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#14
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,675 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
a threaded plastic deal on the end of the clutch pedal. and throttle stops on the carbs. Neither of which will prevent you from stretching the cables. Like i said, the pedal board is there for a reason ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 05:40 PM
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#15
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
a threaded plastic deal on the end of the clutch pedal. and throttle stops on the carbs. Neither of which will prevent you from stretching the cables. Like i said, the pedal board is there for a reason ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
SirAndy |
Feb 17 2014, 06:13 PM
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#16
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,675 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
how do you figure? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Well, first off, i highly doubt Porsche would add a pedal board to 100,000+ cars if they didn't think it was needed. Pesky engineers with their logical stuff. Besides, without an actual stop at the pedal for the accelerator you will be stretching the cable when you hit the stops on your carbs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 06:22 PM
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#17
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
how do you figure? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Well, first off, i highly doubt Porsche would add a pedal board to 100,000+ cars if they didn't think it was needed. Pesky engineers with their logical stuff. Besides, without an actual stop at the pedal for the accelerator you will be stretching the cable when you hit the stops on your carbs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) im surprised those pesky engineers didnt call for 1/4 steel plate..... why would they use a flimsy laminated piece of wood for such a vital component? i'll take my chances. thank you all for your concern for the health of my cables. |
SirAndy |
Feb 17 2014, 06:43 PM
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#18
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,675 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
i'll take my chances. Getting answers you don't like to questions you didn't ask is a frequent byproduct when posting on a public forum ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
mrbubblehead |
Feb 17 2014, 06:44 PM
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#19
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Twodollardoug Group: Members Posts: 1,155 Joined: 17-December 10 From: calimesa ca. Member No.: 12,492 Region Association: Southern California |
i'll take my chances. Getting answers you don't like to questions you didn't ask is a frequent byproduct when posting on a public forum ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) i know right... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
bulitt |
Feb 17 2014, 06:52 PM
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#20
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Achtzylinder Group: Members Posts: 4,188 Joined: 2-October 11 Member No.: 13,632 Region Association: South East States |
how do you figure? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Well, first off, i highly doubt Porsche would add a pedal board to 100,000+ cars if they didn't think it was needed. Pesky engineers with their logical stuff. Besides, without an actual stop at the pedal for the accelerator you will be stretching the cable when you hit the stops on your carbs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) im surprised those pesky engineers didnt call for 1/4 steel plate..... why would they use a flimsy laminated piece of wood for such a vital component? i'll take my chances. thank you all for your concern for the health of my cables. Because its light, and cheap. They used balsa wood in the C5 corvettes. |
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