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> Stalls out at 4400 RPM, Stumped!
Mblizzard
post Feb 23 2014, 08:09 PM
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Well I am a bit confused on this one. 2056 dual Webers. Electronic ignition. New SVDA dizzy. Rev limiting rotor.

Pulled the tank to install SS lines and had a few problems with crimping the lines when putting the tank back but I think I have that worked out. Compression good at 130 plus on all. Timing set at 30 BTDC.

Car runs strong up to exactly 4400 rpm and then it sounds like it hits a wall. Can run it long and hard at rpms below so I am not thinking it is fuel limited. Swapped out the rev limiting rotor with standard one but same thing happens.

I am going to pull the tank again to be sure on the lines. Any other thoughts?
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r_towle
post Feb 23 2014, 08:37 PM
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Do you have an AFM?
Did it do it before you changed the lines?

If it was not present before you changed the lines, I would look under the tank with a mirror and look at the rubber lines to see if there is a kink.
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Jake Raby
post Feb 23 2014, 11:21 PM
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Sounds like you constricted something with the line swap.. Or broke loose some debris that got somewhere that you didn't want it to be..
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Mblizzard
post Feb 24 2014, 05:58 AM
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Had not thought about a line swap Jake.

Did not do it before but I had to pull the engine to recover a lost part down the intake. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I was very diligent in managing any debris and ran a couple of gallons of gas through the lines using multiple filters.

So I guess I will check for kinks, swap lines, then clean the carbs!
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stugray
post Feb 24 2014, 08:25 AM
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QUOTE
Rev limiting rotor.


Change back to the non-limiting rotor....
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Mike Bellis
post Feb 24 2014, 09:16 AM
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I once had a fuel filter with an aluminum burr ball inside. Every time I would go above 65mph, the fuel flow would push the burr and plug the line. Engine would stall and I could restart instantly. It would do this over and over until I found the problem.
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rhodyguy
post Feb 24 2014, 10:57 AM
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Mike, are you using the cb style pump with the metal canister (filter) still attached?
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aircooledtechguy
post Feb 24 2014, 11:16 AM
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I would pull that new SVDA dizzy out and throw it as far as you possibly can. I've had 2 clients w/in the past week that have had these very things cause serious running issues. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it works right. They are a total POS IMHO.

Find a good used German dizzy, clean it up, install new Bosch tune-up parts and install that. This may or may not be part of the problem, but it WILL become a problem in the near future. The problem is usually the LAST thing you installed. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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Mblizzard
post Feb 24 2014, 01:04 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Feb 24 2014, 08:57 AM) *

Mike, are you using the cb style pump with the metal canister (filter) still attached?


Kevin that is correct. Tank had little to no trash in it and I flushed the lines prior to hooking it back up.
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Mblizzard
post Feb 24 2014, 01:33 PM
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QUOTE(aircooledtechguy @ Feb 24 2014, 09:16 AM) *

I would pull that new SVDA dizzy out and throw it as far as you possibly can. I've had 2 clients w/in the past week that have had these very things cause serious running issues. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it works right. They are a total POS IMHO.

Find a good used German dizzy, clean it up, install new Bosch tune-up parts and install that. This may or may not be part of the problem, but it WILL become a problem in the near future. The problem is usually the LAST thing you installed. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


I have heard that. But this was just to be a transition for going back to FI. I have the 2.0 and a 1.8 dizzy with electronic ignition. Any preference on which one? Still has stock cam.
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r_towle
post Feb 24 2014, 02:39 PM
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QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Feb 24 2014, 02:33 PM) *

QUOTE(aircooledtechguy @ Feb 24 2014, 09:16 AM) *

I would pull that new SVDA dizzy out and throw it as far as you possibly can. I've had 2 clients w/in the past week that have had these very things cause serious running issues. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it works right. They are a total POS IMHO.

Find a good used German dizzy, clean it up, install new Bosch tune-up parts and install that. This may or may not be part of the problem, but it WILL become a problem in the near future. The problem is usually the LAST thing you installed. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


I have heard that. But this was just to be a transition for going back to FI. I have the 2.0 and a 1.8 dizzy with electronic ignition. Any preference on which one? Still has stock cam.

1.8 ljet dizzy seems better for carbs.

What one you use when you go back to FI is dependent upon what FI you plan to use.
Both will support your engine.

Look for kinked rubber lines.
If no, then look at which line you are using for the feed line.
The return line is a smaller diameter...

If none of that is obvious, put a clear fuel filter in the engine bay on the feed side.
Run the motor up and see if you are having a fuel starvation issue.

If it worked before you did the fuel lines, and nothing else was changed when you did the lines...and by nothing, I mean nothing....then you need to figure out what happened to the fuel delivery.

If you happen to mess with the distributor when putting in the lines...well, now you have two diagnostic roads to go down....



rich
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 24 2014, 03:10 PM
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QUOTE
Look for kinked rubber lines.
If no, then look at which line you are using for the feed line.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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r_towle
post Feb 24 2014, 04:02 PM
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it "should" work either way...but the return line is smaller and its also up higher in the tank....so if you are 1/4 of a tank or less...you will run out of fuel.

The correct feed line is at the bottom of the tank, lowest spot.
The return is up about 4 inches...with the sock etc.

I believe the return line is the one closest to the driver side of the car when you look under the tank...I mean the fitting portion on the tank itself...

Rich
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ChrisFoley
post Feb 24 2014, 04:15 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Feb 24 2014, 05:02 PM) *

I believe the return line is the one closest to the driver side of the car when you look under the tank...I mean the fitting portion on the tank itself...

I believe the return line is the one farthest from the passenger's feet when you look under the tank...I mean the fitting on the tank itself...

I don't think the problem has to do with the fuel lines though...
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r_towle
post Feb 24 2014, 05:05 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Feb 24 2014, 05:15 PM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Feb 24 2014, 05:02 PM) *

I believe the return line is the one closest to the driver side of the car when you look under the tank...I mean the fitting portion on the tank itself...

I believe the return line is the one farthest from the passenger's feet when you look under the tank...I mean the fitting on the tank itself...

I don't think the problem has to do with the fuel lines though...

yah, well its been a while since I last kinked a line...so your memory is way better...cause you do this every day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Figured someone would correct me if I was wrong (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

rich
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wndsnd
post Feb 24 2014, 05:19 PM
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If you are running electronic cd ignition like the 6AL they also have a rev limiter dip switch

John
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Mblizzard
post Feb 24 2014, 05:25 PM
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QUOTE(wndsnd @ Feb 24 2014, 03:19 PM) *

If you are running electronic cd ignition like the 6AL they also have a rev limiter dip switch

John


Nothing that complex. Just no points. The only "dip" seems to be the guy working on it!
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wndsnd
post Feb 24 2014, 05:32 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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rhodyguy
post Feb 24 2014, 06:46 PM
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Do you still have your old 009?
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Mblizzard
post Feb 24 2014, 06:57 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Feb 24 2014, 04:46 PM) *

Do you still have your old 009?


I think the 1.8 L is an 009. I am out of town so I can't verify. I ran it a bit earlier but the stumble off idle was horrid!
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