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> oil leak - need advice
dax1969
post Jun 27 2014, 06:30 AM
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Good afternoon,

My shop just called that the small oil leak I have on my 73 2.0 is situated down on the oiltubes (or do you call it push rod tubes ?) and that he needs the pull the engine to fix the issue.
For my knowledge (I'm no mechanic) is the oil leak usually caused by bad/dried out seals or can the tubes have an issue themselves.
In short, is it best to replace all seals or also all tubes ?

thks yr advice

note : can I it drive for a while with this small leak and fix the issue in winter or does it need urgent attention ? Car is in the shop for 5 weeks now to fix the rustissue on my aft bottomfloor and realy want to drive it for a couple of weeks or till winter falls in.

krgds
Dax
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cary
post Jun 27 2014, 06:54 AM
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A couple thoughts. First, it really depends on how bad they are. Second, how bad are they dripping on your exhaust.
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914itis
post Jun 27 2014, 06:54 AM
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Yes they are caused by dry cracked seals and can be replace without dropping the engine.
I would take care of it sooner than later , the oil from the push rods are dripping on the heat exchangers and may cause fire.
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dax1969
post Jun 27 2014, 07:01 AM
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QUOTE(cary @ Jun 27 2014, 02:54 PM) *

A couple thoughts. First, it really depends on how bad they are. Second, how bad are they dripping on your exhaust.


I am getting pictures later on but as I understood only one is dripping. It is not pouring on the ground, just a few drops every 24 hours but on start up I can smell the oil on the exhaust.

Checked PET for the correct partnumbers but my PET only reads GB engine numbers. Are they simular to GA nrs ? (mine has GA005239).
I can find the tubes on google with partnr 021 109 335 C and the seals with nrs 021 109 345A (21.5 mm) and 021 109 349 (23.5 mm) - is this correct for my engine ? There is also a part nr 021 109 349B which has 25.1 mm ?

Last but not least, I can source the parts with the same partnumbers fm an aircooled VW specialists not far fm my home. Are they indeed the same parts ?

thks
Dax
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stugray
post Jun 27 2014, 07:13 AM
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Dax,

Inspect the pushrod tubes and verify that they are all straight and not bent.
The seals can be easily replaced without removing the engine then you need to reset your valve clearances.
With the covers are off, make sure the springs are installed that hold the pushrod tubes in place.

What size engine do you have? I have a complete extra set of pushrod tubes if yours are damaged (they should not be).
I also have an extra set of the retention springs.

I also have a complete set of pushrod tube seals that I will probably just throw in your package.

If you order new seals get the Viton type they are better than the cheaper versions in the seal kits.
If you are in no hurry, have any other parts sent to me & I'll put them all in your package.

Stu
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dax1969
post Jun 27 2014, 07:14 AM
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QUOTE
the oil from the push rods are dripping on the heat exchangers and may cause fire.


Holy sh*t... scary...

I've read as much as possible already and one says it can be done without removing the engine and the other ones says (and my shop) you will have to pull the engine.

Note : my shop is an aircooled VW shop but he "says" he has experience on T4 engines and 914's as well. Unfortunately the 914 is very rare here and real 914 specialists are non existant or tucked away in their own garages.

Mmmh, time to take a decision

thks
Dax
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cary
post Jun 27 2014, 07:19 AM
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It's easier with the engine out. But the R&R costs time and money.
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dax1969
post Jun 27 2014, 07:30 AM
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QUOTE(stugray @ Jun 27 2014, 03:13 PM) *

Dax,

Inspect the pushrod tubes and verify that they are all straight and not bent.
The seals can be easily replaced without removing the engine then you need to reset your valve clearances.
With the covers are off, make sure the springs are installed that hold the pushrod tubes in place.

What size engine do you have? I have a complete extra set of pushrod tubes if yours are damaged (they should not be).
I also have an extra set of the retention springs.

I also have a complete set of pushrod tube seals that I will probably just throw in your package.

If you order new seals get the Viton type they are better than the cheaper versions in the seal kits.
If you are in no hurry, have any other parts sent to me & I'll put them all in your package.

Stu


Thks, the pushrodtubes can be easily found overhere. It looks like the seals is bit more difficult (can only find in ACM and MVQ fm Elring)

Is this a good kit ?
http://www.autoatlanta.com/results.php?par...20109%20345%20a

thks
Dax

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luskesq
post Jun 27 2014, 08:18 AM
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AA can probably get you the seals but if you do a search here you will find a number of folks who prefer not to deal with them. You don't need to drop the engine to replace the push rod tube seals and the job is relatively easy. If you look on the Pelican site they have a tech article on how to replace the seals (and tubes if need be). They also have the tubes (no need to replace unless damaged) and seals: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearc...x=16&I1.y=0.

As noted above, the Viton brand is the preferred replacement seal. If you are getting a drip or two I wouldn't be to concerned about a fire but when you do it, replace all the seals at the same time.

Keith
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bdstone914
post Jun 27 2014, 08:23 AM
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Auto Atlanta has few fans on this site due to poor customer service. Pelican is a better source for parts.
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ChrisFoley
post Jun 27 2014, 08:42 AM
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Mia at Auto Atlanta is from Belgium.
In fact, she may be there right now.

You don't really need to worry much about fire from a pushrod tube leaking on the heat exchanger.
Most of the orings are fairly easy to replace with the engine in the car, some are a bit tricky.
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dax1969
post Jun 27 2014, 08:55 AM
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QUOTE
If you are in no hurry, have any other parts sent to me & I'll put them all in your package.

Stu



thks guys... just bought new Viton seals @ PP

@ stugray...and they will arrive at yours to put them in my package (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Will pm you

cheers
Dax
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jun 27 2014, 09:09 AM
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A professional mechanic should easily be able to replace the seals in under 2 hours. A mechanic with 914 experience should be able to cut that time down considerably. The tubes (which are rarely replaced) and the seals are readily available in the US.

The Cap'n
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Dave_Darling
post Jun 27 2014, 12:30 PM
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The key is that you only have to pull the tubes halfway out of the head to replace the seals.

--DD
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jun 27 2014, 12:46 PM
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If you want to really get them clean, they can be removed from the engine with the engine in the car, as can the pushrods. It takes some fiddling, but they DO come out.

The Cap'n
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