Converting to 2.0 Heat Exchangers from 1.7 Heat Exchangers, The definitive parts list Options

[FlatSix]

I have a 1.7 engine. I'm planning on changing my heat exchangers to 2.0 stainless heat exchangers. I've had a stab at creating a list of the parts that I need to source to do this below. Have I missed anything?

2x 2.0 Heat Exchangers (I have)
1x 2.0 Exhaust (I have)
1x 2.0 Exhaust Hanger Bracket (I have)
4x Gaskets H/E to Cylinder Head - I see part nos. are different for 1.7 and 2.0, which do I need?
8x Nuts H/E to Cylinder Head - what size?
2x Gaskets H/E to Exhaust
6x Nuts and Bolts H/E to Exhaust - what size?

Does the existing warm air elbows etc. carry over to the new installation or am I in for more expense?

How much of a PITA is it to remove old rusty H/E's? some of the nuts look to be well hidden. Do I need a special tool or will a regular socket set do?

Thanks in advance.

[nsr-jamie]

Thats pretty much all you need, make sure you lube up the parts good...the last thing you want to do is break off a stud on the cylinder head...just go slow and don't force anything..you will need the 2L muffler hanger as well which is in your list

[rhodyguy]

both pieces of the of the branch ducting will carry over as will the j-tubes. those items are l&r specific. you will need to obtain a GOOD penetrant, Pbblaster/Aerokroil or the like. be generous with the product you find. spray as high into the ex port recesses as you can. do NOT use a product like WD-40 (lubricant). more than likely numerous applications will be required. time is your friend so be patient. clean the rust off the exposed stud ends with a tiny wire brush/wheel. dependent on the exh nuts it will require a 12 or 13mm thin wall socket and long extension. 1/4" drive ones seem to fit the best. again, time is your friend. try using a torque wrench set to 18lbs to loosen the nuts. this will help to prevent twisting and breaking the studs. when the studs start to break, you'll be f-ed. properly….

[Dave_Darling]

For the exhaust nuts, use exhaust nuts. They are fairly specialized parts, with a copper coating and a self-locking feature. Pelican and many other outlets carry them.

The exchanger-to-muffler fasteners are regular M8 nuts and bolts. They don't need to be very long, but it's not super critical if they are a bit longer than needed.

--DD

[Cap'n Krusty]

For the exhaust nuts, use exhaust nuts. They are fairly specialized parts, with a copper coating and a self-locking feature. Pelican and many other outlets carry them.

The exchanger-to-muffler fasteners are regular M8 nuts and bolts. They don't need to be very long, but it's not super critical if they are a bit longer than needed.

--DD

BAD advice, Dave! Air cooled Porsches and VWs DO NOT use locking nuts for the exhaust systems. The nuts you are pushing for Pelican were first introduced for water cooled VWs and BMWs. Porsche used conventional nuts with Helicoil inserts on the earlier1.7/1.8 and late 2.0 engines, and similarly inserted thick flanged nuts for the earlier 2.0 engines. Neither were of the locking variety. There is a torque spec for the conventional nuts, and there is NO WAY that spec could be properly achieved with a self locking nut. Remember, just because you can buy something doesn't mean you should either buy or use it. Look at all the "009" distributors out there ..................

The Cap'n