Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Heat Exchangers, can any maintenance be done? (YES: updated)
malcolm2
post Jan 6 2015, 09:17 PM
Post #1


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,747
Joined: 31-May 11
From: Nashville
Member No.: 13,139
Region Association: South East States



I am preparing to send Dr Evil a patient, my crunchy, grindy trans. I decide to remove the exhaust and the HEs to give me some room.

The HEs are complete, but they do have some loose rusty areas. Mainly at the fan end. Even a hole in one where the axle dimple is. The welds on both ends are loose or broken. I am probably losing some heat efficiency. if there is such a thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Is there anything that I can do while the trans is gone to close up some holes and tighten up the seams?

I found some repair tape made for this sort of thing. I used another similar product on my 85 VW Cabriolet. I cut up a coke can and patched the hole, then wrapped it in the heat sensitive material. Once the muffler got hot it all sealed up.

Anyone do anything to these old exhausts and HEs? dealing with a '75 BTW.

Thanks,

Clark
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
2 Pages V  1 2 >  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 19)
mepstein
post Jan 6 2015, 09:22 PM
Post #2


914-6 GT in waiting
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 19,578
Joined: 19-September 09
From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE
Member No.: 10,825
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



Sounds like a bigger problem than a coke can and duct tape can fix
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
colingreene
post Jan 6 2015, 09:27 PM
Post #3


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 730
Joined: 17-October 13
From: Southern California
Member No.: 16,526
Region Association: Southern California



i repaired mine, it can be done.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
malcolm2
post Jan 6 2015, 09:38 PM
Post #4


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,747
Joined: 31-May 11
From: Nashville
Member No.: 13,139
Region Association: South East States



QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 6 2015, 09:22 PM) *

Sounds like a bigger problem than a coke can and duct tape can fix


Maybe I made it sound worse than it is. here are some pictures.
Both sides are loose.
Attached Image

This one is not loose, but not sealed either. Is that the way it worked in '75?
Attached Image

Here is the hole in the dimple.
Attached Image

And the other FAN end.
Attached Image

And the COKE Can repair. It was the tail pipe, I thought it was the muffler, which is looking pretty ruff too. Time to kill 2 birds on this post.

Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
infraredcalvin
post Jan 6 2015, 09:46 PM
Post #5


Distracted Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,564
Joined: 25-August 08
From: Ladera Ranch, CA
Member No.: 9,463
Region Association: Southern California



Whatever you use it needs to resist the high heat of the exhaust pipe. While you're looking, be sure there are no cracks or holes in the actual pipes, the escaping exhaust will get pumped into the cabin when you turn on the heat.

You could probably repair by solder or brazing a patch....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
malcolm2
post Jan 6 2015, 09:51 PM
Post #6


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,747
Joined: 31-May 11
From: Nashville
Member No.: 13,139
Region Association: South East States



I have some FIBER FIX, but they have a style that I should use instead. It is good for 850 degrees. I see now that the regular stuff is only good to 300*F.

https://www.fiberfix.com/product/new-heat-wrap-2-x-70/
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ndfrigi
post Jan 6 2015, 10:13 PM
Post #7


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,956
Joined: 21-August 11
From: Orange County
Member No.: 13,474
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan 6 2015, 07:38 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 6 2015, 09:22 PM) *

Sounds like a bigger problem than a coke can and duct tape can fix


Maybe I made it sound worse than it is. here are some pictures.
Both sides are loose.
Attached Image

This one is not loose, but not sealed either. Is that the way it worked in '75?
Attached Image

Here is the hole in the dimple.
Attached Image

And the other FAN end.
Attached Image

And the COKE Can repair. It was the tail pipe, I thought it was the muffler, which is looking pretty ruff too. Time to kill 2 birds on this post.

Attached Image


Exactly same issue on my 75 HE that is why i went to early HE.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Jan 6 2015, 10:23 PM
Post #8


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,638
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States



Best thing you could do with those is toss them in a lake and see if they float.

Then find a nice set of early heat exchangers and give yourself 10-15% more power and lower heat from the engine.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rhodyguy
post Jan 7 2015, 07:42 AM
Post #9


Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 22,192
Joined: 2-March 03
From: Orion's Bell. The BELL!
Member No.: 378
Region Association: Galt's Gulch



....and REAL heat. Do the backdate. Hardest part of the project is pulling off the late system. Lots of muffler options too.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
malcolm2
post Jan 7 2015, 10:08 AM
Post #10


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,747
Joined: 31-May 11
From: Nashville
Member No.: 13,139
Region Association: South East States



QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 7 2015, 07:42 AM) *

....and REAL heat. Do the backdate. Hardest part of the project is pulling off the late system. Lots of muffler options too.


It is all off NOW.... But my accountant said I could pay Dr. Evil for the Tranny. Not sure if I could slip new or better HE and exhaust in during this repair.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Are there any differences as far as attaching early HE to a '75 1.8 exhaust ports? And will the hook up to the fan and the heat tubes use be included as it is with the '75 HE?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
malcolm2
post Jan 7 2015, 10:17 AM
Post #11


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,747
Joined: 31-May 11
From: Nashville
Member No.: 13,139
Region Association: South East States



He is a picture of the early HE currently for sale in Oregon. The connection to the fan and the cock-pit tube is not built-in like my '75s are. more parts = more $.

Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rhodyguy
post Jan 7 2015, 10:17 AM
Post #12


Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 22,192
Joined: 2-March 03
From: Orion's Bell. The BELL!
Member No.: 378
Region Association: Galt's Gulch



you will need to covert to the earlier ducting system. those darned accountants get in the way every time. the 1.7/1.8 and 2.0 he's will bolt right up.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
monkeyboy
post Jan 7 2015, 10:45 AM
Post #13


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 8-June 08
From: Los Angeles, Ca
Member No.: 9,147
Region Association: None



I am pretty sure you will need the whole kit. New exhaust, new exhaust hanger, new muffler, new J Tubes, new heater flappers, and a dual outlet blower if you don't have one.

It wasn't as bad for me. My car came with nothing so I had to buy it all anyway.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rjames
post Jan 7 2015, 10:48 AM
Post #14


I'm made of metal
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,132
Joined: 24-July 05
From: Shoreline, WA
Member No.: 4,467
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



Convert. It's one of the biggest 'stock' improvements you could make to your car for relatively little $. If you look hard you can probably really do it right and find a set of stainless exchangers and a muffler for $400-$600.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rhodyguy
post Jan 7 2015, 11:02 AM
Post #15


Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 22,192
Joined: 2-March 03
From: Orion's Bell. The BELL!
Member No.: 378
Region Association: Galt's Gulch



A is where the warm air elbows attach. B is where the branch ducting attach. So...2 elbows, the left and right branches and clamping parts, l&r j tubes and a set of flapper valves. Your current valves should work if serviceable. The appropriate muffler hanger will be required for which ever version of he's you decide to go with. The 2.0 differ from the 1.7/1.8.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
malcolm2
post Jan 7 2015, 11:21 AM
Post #16


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,747
Joined: 31-May 11
From: Nashville
Member No.: 13,139
Region Association: South East States



QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 7 2015, 10:17 AM) *

you will need to covert to the earlier ducting system. those darned accountants get in the way every time. the 1.7/1.8 and 2.0 he's will bolt right up.


I've been practicing my "searching" and found lots of old ads with pictures. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

did I get it right?

Attached Image

It looks like the 2.0 HEs have shorter and "flatter" pipes from the HE to the muffler flange. Is that the difference? Then comes the diffs with the muffler, I guess. Am I missing any other diffs?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rhodyguy
post Jan 7 2015, 11:40 AM
Post #17


Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 22,192
Joined: 2-March 03
From: Orion's Bell. The BELL!
Member No.: 378
Region Association: Galt's Gulch



Correct on the 2.0 he's and where the pieces attach. Those look like a clean set of 1.7/1.8s.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chris H.
post Jan 7 2015, 11:41 AM
Post #18


Senior Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,046
Joined: 2-January 03
From: Chicago 'burbs
Member No.: 73
Region Association: Upper MidWest



Correct sir. The 1.7/1.8 muffler flanges are curved upwards at the end whereas the 2.0's are nearly straight on. This means you need a different muffler and muffler hanger depending on the ones you get. The heater stuff on the other end is the same for both styles of early HE's.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
bdstone914
post Jan 7 2015, 11:48 AM
Post #19


bdstone914
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,696
Joined: 8-November 03
From: Riverside CA
Member No.: 1,319



QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan 7 2015, 11:21 AM) *

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 7 2015, 10:17 AM) *

you will need to covert to the earlier ducting system. those darned accountants get in the way every time. the 1.7/1.8 and 2.0 he's will bolt right up.


I've been practicing my "searching" and found lots of old ads with pictures. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

did I get it right?

Attached Image

It looks like the 2.0 HEs have shorter and "flatter" pipes from the HE to the muffler flange. Is that the difference? Then comes the diffs with the muffler, I guess. Am I missing any other diffs?


You also need the earlier warm air guides. Those are the plates that go between the heat exchangers and the engine case. And a matching muffler bracket for which ever type muffler you get. The only parts from you system that are used are the flapper boxes. I gave most if not all of those parts and a pair of SSI heat exchangers if you decide to go that route.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
barefoot
post Jan 7 2015, 11:50 AM
Post #20


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,326
Joined: 19-March 13
From: Charleston SC
Member No.: 15,673
Region Association: South East States



If your CFO won't approve the backdate budget, lots of 75-76 H/E's are around that folks will about give away. Can tide you over till the checkbook fattenes up a bit
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

2 Pages V  1 2 >
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 31st October 2024 - 06:33 PM